Main Wall



Access issues inherited from Blue Mountains

The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Do not cut flora and keep any tracks and infrastructure as minimal as possible.

Practically all crags are either in National Park or in council reserve: dog owners are reminded that dogs are not allowed in National Parks at any time and fines have been issued, while for crags on council reserve the BMCC leash law requires that dogs be on-leash.

Ethic inherited from Blue Mountains

Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs. If you do the bolts may be removed.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

If you have benefited from climbing infrastructure in NSW, please consider making a donation towards maintenance costs. The Sydney Rockclimbing Club Rebolting Fund finances the replacement of old bolts on existing climbs and the maintenance of other hardware such as fixed ropes and anchors. The SRC purchases hardware, such as bolts and glue, and distributes them to volunteer rebolters across the state of New South Wales. For more information, including donation details, visit

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it.

However, the fast growing scrub can conceal walking tracks in mere months, making remote and less popular crags slightly more difficult and fun to navigate to. Some appropriately discreet pruning is a far better alternative then track braiding (which causes far more damage).

However, do so only on Council land and definitely not in the National Park. Remember, to maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Do not cut flora and keep any tracks and infrastructure as minimal as possible or risk possible closures.


Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)


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Grade Route

Boulder steep corner and face of Ruddy Norry (shares a couple of holds in the middle). Finish at top of cliff.

FA: D Dunn, 2018

Now re-bolted with ring bolts. It's a good warm up. Start as for 'Ratcat' then trend right crossing the flake feature. A medium cam in a break below the first bolt helps alleviate leg breakages.

FA: J.Smoothy & F.Lumsden, 1988

A good route through thin ground straight up the wall. Start as for Ruddy Norry but take the middle line of bolts up the sustained face.

FA: S.Johns, 1992

A classic Blue Mountains sandbag slab. Heinous. Shared mantle start then take the left line of bolts.

FA: M.Radtke & J.Smoothy, 1988

This route links the start of Ernest in Africa into the top of Chase the Lady. High first bolt, can be accessed along the ledge from Madge.

The square arete on the R side of the main wall. Believe it or not they used to dyno from the jug to the top! These days we use our feet and a little thought.

FA: S.Butler, 1988

Start 3m L of the right arete of the main wall. Easily to ledge, and the just-out-of-reach first bolt (most people stick clip it from the ledge). Then up and out the goodly roof.

FA: S.Butler & M.Law, 1988

Unless you're short!

FA: M.Withers, 1999

Finally, a distinguishable feature to help you locate the routes. The right side of the main wall has a roof, and the left end of the roof is a fat hanging flake. Start under this flake. At the top, scamper left and lower from Madge's anchor.

FA: J.Smoothy & G.Bradbury, 1988

The biggest route on the wall!

You may think rope drag is a prob... but not at all. The moves are wild as well; drop downs, cross-unders, cross-overs the whole way along. Get a seconder too GETTING INTO APRAXIA IS QUITE DANGEROUS I THINK:)

FA: ben cossey & tom bomba dill, 2006

Absolute classic 25 and for many, their first. Centennial Glen climbing at its best.


FA: M. Baker & S. Wythe, 1992

One of the most popular routes at its grade in the mountains. Start just left of Madge. Stick clip.

FA: G. Bradbury & J. Smoothy, 1990

Start up Bare Essentials then trend R through the bulge into Trix.

FA: Z.Vertrees, 2005

A bit of monkeying around. The glue is cracked all the way around the first bolt.

FA: J.Clark, 1998

Links 'Bare Essentials' into August 1914.

Start just R of the two wooden posts. Once was an aid route called '1914' 25M0. Start was aided to the jug, then traverse right and up through the layback as for 'Bare Essentials' - thus avoiding the actual climbing of both routes, to finish as it does today.

FA: M.Baker, 1994

The original version, batman or pull draws to start at the big hole at 4th RB.

Super thin and powerful climbing. Has some hard-to-clip (and ridiculously oversized) bolts.

FA: S.Johns, 1992

This was chipped. Has been filled in and no longer exists. Included for nostalgia.

This was chipped. Has been filled in and no longer exists. Included for nostalgia.

This was chipped. Has been filled in and no longer exists. Included for nostalgia.

Start as for 'Apraxia'. Break out R at the earliest opportunity via a sideways dyno. From there, more easily sideways past a few bolts to anchors up and R. Backjump.

FA: J.Clark, 1998

As for 'Apraxia', almost to its 4th bolt (don't go right at the 3rd bolt, that's Bernie Loves Sausages). Don't clip Apraxia's 4th bolt, instead swing 2-3m R into a cool boulder problem.

FA: I.Geatches, 2001

Start just R of Padington. Pull onto traverse line and go 5m easily right along low ledge. From here go straight up and a bit left, continuing past the top break and up the little headwall. It's a bit runout getting to the bolt on the lip of the top roof.

FA: G.Bradbury, 1988

This was chipped. Has been filled in and no longer exists. Included for nostalgia.

Start just right of the corner (right of the big fallen block). Use your feet or pull some very thin moves.

FA: J. Smoothy, 1988

Start just R of the boulder. The short right-facing corner.

FA: J.Smoothy, 1988

This is the righthand route which starts off the boulder at the left end of the wall. Stick-clip, then jump off the boulder to gain first hold. The hard moves above the first bolt need an alert belayer to keep you off the boulder. Then a few crimps to easier ground.

FA: J.Smoothy, 1988

Rather worthless.

FA: S.Cody, 1998

Links AH into the top of AC. Some say a great warm up, others... don't. You decide!

FA: benjin paolo cossey, 2002

The first climb on the cliff. This is the lefthand route starting off the boulder, above the 'historical' graffiti! The direct start has been done!

FA: M. Stacy, J. Smoothy & M. Law

FA: M.Stacey, J.Smoothy & M.Law, 1988

Start to the left of the big fallen boulder, slightly around the corner. The name is appropriate; smart belayers stand to one side.

FA: K.Klein, 1992

Bolts begining to loosen. Fun and quite intense.

FA: M.Baker, 1994

Bolts begining to loosen.

FA: K.Klein, 1998

An old open project sent by Chris Webb.

FA: Chris Webb, 2011

A cute little diddly according to Ben. Considered an environmental blight by others.

FA: Ben Cossey, 2004

The left hand line in this feisty little cave. 'Campus' the start and and thrutch up to the single U-bolt anchor. Good times.

FA: B.Cossey, 2000

FA: Ben Cossey, 2006

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