• Grade context: AU
  • Photos: 7
  • Ascents: 2,273
  • Aka: Access Gully Wall




A convenient juggy wall that, after extensive retrobolting, is now grid-bolted and popular. Cliff faces west - so gets afternoon sun (and cops the wind in winter). The base of this cliff is showing extreme levels of erosion - please try and avoid adding to it.

Access issues inherited from Blue Mountains

The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Do not cut flora and keep any tracks and infrastructure as minimal as possible.

Practically all crags are either in National Park or in council reserve: dog owners are reminded that dogs are not allowed in National Parks at any time and fines have been issued, while for crags on council reserve the BMCC leash law requires that dogs be on-leash.

For the latest access related information, or to report something of concern, visit the Australian Climbing Association NSW Blue Mountains page at


Follow the Zig Zrag Trail down for about 5 minutes where you'll come across a wooden sign for "Bushrangers Cave". Leave the Zig zag Trail here where you'll see the main wall with bolts galore. Head to the far left of the cliff where you'll find Training Run.

Descent notes

All routes have lower-offs.

Ethic inherited from Blue Mountains

Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs. If you do the bolts may be removed.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

At many Blue Mountains crags, the somewhat close spacing of routes and prolific horizontal featuring means that it is easy to envisage literally hundreds of trivial linkups. By all means climb these to your hearts content but, unless it is an exceptional case due to some significant objective merit, please generally refrain from writing up linkups. A proliferation of descriptions of trivial linkups would only clutter up the guide and add confusion and will generally not add value to your fellow climbers. (If you still can't resist, consider adding a brief note to the parent route description, rather than cluttering up the guide with a whole new route entry).

If you have benefited from climbing infrastructure in NSW, please consider making a donation towards maintenance costs. The Sydney Rockclimbing Club Rebolting Fund finances the replacement of old bolts on existing climbs and the maintenance of other hardware such as fixed ropes and anchors. The SRC purchases hardware, such as bolts and glue, and distributes them to volunteer rebolters across the state of New South Wales. For more information, including donation details, visit

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds and minimisation/removal of tick marks becomes part of your climbing routine. Consider bringing a water squirt bottle and mop-up rag to better remove chalk. Only use soft (hair/nylon) bristled brushes, never steel brushes.

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it.

Remember, to maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Do not cut flora and keep any tracks and infrastructure as minimal as possible or risk possible closures.

For the latest access related information, or to report something of concern, visit the Australian Climbing Association NSW Blue Mountains page at



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Grade Route

Mini bolted slab in slot at left end of wall. The first pitch is good for kids.

  1. 6m (6) Up boulder, step R to DRBB.

  2. 18m (8) Up following closely spaced bolts.

The first bolt is situated at chest height when standing on the ground so it can be clipped before you set foot on the route. The second bolt can be clipped one move from the ground. The anchors are set for easy clipping and cleaning.

FA: F, F Pritchard, K & T Short, 2015

On the side wall left of arete. Take 14 draws including anchors or skip a few bolts.

FA: F & F Pircher, 2015

Fun juggy lefthand arete of the buttress.

FA: L Hay, 1986

Wall 1m right of Glabrate arete. Easy tick for 19.

FA: Lindsay Hay & Mikl Law, 1986

Probably 22ish with erosion at the base and holds breaking off, one just today, not me ; ) This nice flake feature with a bouldery start was once a scary mixed route - it is now all ringbolts and super popular. Shares anchor with 'Lightning McQueen'

FA: John Smoothy

Don't underestimate this little ditty - the desperate start isn't the only tough move!

FA: M & G Pircher, 2015

Desperate crux can be McDougalled right - knocks off a couple of grades.

FA: L, M & G. Garben, 2000

The most popular route on the wall - hits the Mtns sweet spot of lots of bolts and grade 18. Starts in middle of wall at tree.

FA: L, M & G.Garben, 1999

Start as for Nappy Action then traverse right. This is a much easier finish than the original and is all over after the 2nd bolt.

FA: M Pircher, 2015

The next couple of routes start from the ledge just right of Nappy Action - there is belay bolts but it's just as easy to belay from the ground.

Start at the double bolt belay on ledge - the left line of rings.

FA: F & M Pircher, 2015

Right route sharing the same belay as Captain Hook. Probably retrobolts Nantucket Sleigh Ride.

FA: F & M Pircher, 2015

Starts below the Captain Hook ledge at short crack. Crack to ledge. Up wall (retrobolted by Maleficent). How this was written up as 8 grades easier despite a lack of trad protection we will never know. They bred 'em tough.

FA: C.Dawson, P.Morris, B.Maddison, R & Parkin, 1973

Right arête starting off ledge right of Maleficent. Starts at double ring belay bolts.

FA: F Pircher & K Short, 2015

The short arete starting at ground level that leads to the start of Bacon. Can easily be linked as one big pitch.


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Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): Simon Carter

Date: 2019

ISBN: 9780958079082

The latest comprehensive, latest and greatest Blue Mountains Climbing Guide is here and it has more routes than you can poke a clip stick at! 3421 to be exact. You are not going to get bored.

Author(s): Simon Carter

Date: 2019

ISBN: 9780958079075

Simon Carter's "Best of the Blue" is the latest selected climbing guide book for the Blue Mountains and covers 1000 routes and 19 different climbing areas. For all the sport climbers out there, the travellers, or just anyone who doesn't want to lug around the big guide that's more than 3 times the size - cut out the riff-raff and get to the good stuff! This will pretty much cover everything you need!

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