Help

Disneyland

  • Grade context: AU
  • Photos: 6
  • Ascents: 1,341
  • Aka: Access Gully Wall

Seasonality

J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D

Description

A convenient juggy wall that, after extensive retrobolting, is now grid-bolted and popular. Cliff faces west - so gets afternoon sun (and cops the wind in winter). The base of this cliff is showing extreme levels of erosion - please try and avoid adding to it.

Access issues inherited from Blue Mountains

The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Do not cut flora and keep any tracks and infrastructure as minimal as possible.

Practically all crags are either in National Park or in council reserve: dog owners are reminded that dogs are not allowed in National Parks at any time and fines have been issued, while for crags on council reserve the BMCC leash law requires that dogs be on-leash.

Approach

Follow the Zig Zrag Trail down for about 5 minutes where you'll come across a wooden sign for "Bushrangers Cave". Leave the Zig zag Trail here where you'll see the main wall with bolts galore. Head to the far left of the cliff where you'll find Training Run.

Descent notes

All routes have lower-offs.

Ethic inherited from Blue Mountains

Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs. If you do the bolts may be removed.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

If you have benefited from climbing infrastructure in NSW, please consider making a donation towards maintenance costs. The Sydney Rockclimbing Club Rebolting Fund finances the replacement of old bolts on existing climbs and the maintenance of other hardware such as fixed ropes and anchors. The SRC purchases hardware, such as bolts and glue, and distributes them to volunteer rebolters across the state of New South Wales. For more information, including donation details, visit https://sydneyrockies.org.au/rebolting/

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it.

However, the fast growing scrub can conceal walking tracks in mere months, making remote and less popular crags slightly more difficult and fun to navigate to. Some appropriately discreet pruning is a far better alternative then track braiding (which causes far more damage).

However, do so only on Council land and definitely not in the National Park. Remember, to maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Do not cut flora and keep any tracks and infrastructure as minimal as possible or risk possible closures.

Tags

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Reorder Bulk edit Convert grades
Grade Route

Mini bolted slab in slot at left end of wall. The first pitch is good for kids.

  1. 6m (6) Up boulder, step R to DRBB.

  2. 18m (8) Up following closely spaced bolts.

The first bolt is situated at chest height when standing on the ground so it can be clipped before you set foot on the route. The second bolt can be clipped one move from the ground. The anchors are set for easy clipping and cleaning.

FA: F, F Pritchard, K & T Short, 2015

On the side wall left of arete. Take 14 draws including anchors or skip a few bolts.

FA: F & F Pircher, 2015

Fun juggy lefthand arete of the buttress.

FA: L Hay, 1986

Wall 1m right of Glabrate arete. Easy tick for 19.

Probably 22ish with erosion at the base and holds breaking off, one just today, not me ; ) This nice flake feature with a bouldery start was once a scary mixed route - it is now all ringbolts and super popular.

FA: John Smoothy

Don't underestimate this little ditty - the desperate start isn't the only tough move! Originally a total sandbag at grade 21.

FA: M & G Pircher, 2015

Desperate crux can be McDougalled right - knocks off a couple of grades.

FA: L, M & G. Garben, 2000

The most popular route on the wall - hits the Mtns sweet spot of lots of bolts and grade 18. Starts in middle of wall at tree.

FA: L, M & G.Garben, 1999

Start as for Nappy Action then traverse right. This is a much easier finish than the original and is all over after the 2nd bolt.

FA: M Pircher, 2015

The next couple of routes start from the ledge just right of Nappy Action - there is belay bolts but it's just as easy to belay from the ground.

Start at the double bolt belay on ledge - the left line of rings.

FA: F & M Pircher, 2015

Right route sharing the same belay as Captain Hook. Probably retrobolts Nantucket Sleigh Ride.

FA: F & M Pircher, 2015

Starts below the Captain Hook ledge at short crack. Crack to ledge. Up wall (retrobolted by Maleficent). How this was written up as 8 grades easier despite a lack of trad protection we will never know. They bred 'em tough.

FA: C.Dawson, P.Morris, B.Maddison, R & Parkin, 1973

Right arête starting off ledge right of Maleficent. Starts at double ring belay bolts.

FA: F Pircher & K Short, 2015

The short arete starting at ground level that leads to the start of Bacon. Can easily be linked as one big pitch.

Hello!

First time here?

theCrag.com is a free guide for rock climbing areas all over the world, collaboratively edited by keen rock climbers, boulderers and other nice folks.

You can log all your routes, connect and chat with other climbers and much more...

» go exploring, » learn more or » ask us a question

Photos Browse all photos

Upload a photo of area

Activity

Check out what is happening in Disneyland.

Deutsch English Español Français Italiano 한국어 中文