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Access issues inherited from Blue Mountains

The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Do not cut flora and keep any tracks and infrastructure as minimal as possible.

Practically all crags are either in National Park or in council reserve: dog owners are reminded that dogs are not allowed in National Parks at any time and fines have been issued, while for crags on council reserve the BMCC leash law requires that dogs be on-leash.

Ethic inherited from Blue Mountains

Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs. If you do the bolts may be removed.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

If you have benefited from climbing infrastructure in NSW, please consider making a donation towards maintenance costs. The Sydney Rockclimbing Club Rebolting Fund finances the replacement of old bolts on existing climbs and the maintenance of other hardware such as fixed ropes and anchors. The SRC purchases hardware, such as bolts and glue, and distributes them to volunteer rebolters across the state of New South Wales. For more information, including donation details, visit https://sydneyrockies.org.au/rebolting/

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it.

However, the fast growing scrub can conceal walking tracks in mere months, making remote and less popular crags slightly more difficult and fun to navigate to. Some appropriately discreet pruning is a far better alternative then track braiding (which causes far more damage).

However, do so only on Council land and definitely not in the National Park. Remember, to maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Do not cut flora and keep any tracks and infrastructure as minimal as possible or risk possible closures.

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route
1 24 28m
2 23 30m

One of the mountains' finest arete routes - that can be led in either two shorter pitches with a hanging belay - or one long pitch (long runners required). Route was fully rebolted with rings in 2022 - no bolt plates required unless you want to clip one of the old carrots on the halfway belay stance.

Start under the middle of the awesome front face of the buttress - which is where the abseil lands you. The rubbly stance at the base is above a steep drop into the jungle, but doesn't really require setting an anchor. The belayer can just lean on the tree.

  1. 28m (24) Start up poor/dubious rock for 10m (high first bolt left of the small ledge). Traverse left to the arête (improving rock quality). Now strenuously up the arête to an optional hanging belay, off 1 new ring bolt, and 2 old carrots 1 of which is badly positioned and cantilevers the carabiner. Consider pulling up to clip the first lead bolt on pitch 2 to beef up this belay.

  2. 30m (23) A stunning pitch. Continue up the fantastic arête to the cave (extend the bolts before and after the cave). Traverse 5m right from the cave (the FHs going straight up from just to the right of the cave is DHMR), to ledge. Now straight up the awesome steep crimpy face finish.

FA: J.Smoothy & M.Stacey, 1988

Direct finish to I was a Teenager for the CIA. 26 in the guidebook.

The bolts on this route are glued in hilti studs with hangers attached (not expansion bolts as some people have suggested).

FA: Simon Atkins, 2006

The middle route on the face. Rebolted 2004

Start: Rap down the centre of the face. Route starts at the chain belay for Teenage 'Werewolf'.

FA: G.Bradbury, 1986

Links the start of Teenage 'Werewolf' into Teenage NB.

Start: Through choss off bottom ledge. At 3m step right and head straight up.

FA: R.Heap, 1999

The lefthand arete (facing out). Needs rebolting.

Start: Rap in from rings on the left of the butress (facing out).

  1. 25m (24) As for TfCIA but head right through choss to the arete and belay.

  2. 30m (22) Up the arete to the top.

FA: G.Bradbury & J.Smoothy, 1984

An ok arete down low then a broken wall above with a tricky undercut mantle move. When looking out rap down left of the large tree near the edge of the cliff to a semi hanging belay off rubbish old chain. This route is mostly rusty carrot bolts - but with a significant runout (trad?) section in the middle. Bolt count is approximate.

FA: J.Smoothy & C.Cuthbertson, 1988

Direct start to PB.

Start: Rap to the bottom. Corner on the right side of the butress (looking in). Up to belay of PB, then up.

FA: M.Law & S.Moon, 1991

This cliff is unlocated

If you know where this cliff is then please take a minute to locate it for the climbing community. contact us if you have any issues.

Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): Simon Carter

Date: 2019

ISBN: 9780958079082

The latest comprehensive, latest and greatest Blue Mountains Climbing Guide is here and it has more routes than you can poke a clip stick at! 3421 to be exact. You are not going to get bored.

Author(s): Simon Carter

Date: 2019

ISBN: 9780958079075

Simon Carter's "Best of the Blue" is the latest selected climbing guide book for the Blue Mountains and covers 1000 routes and 19 different climbing areas. For all the sport climbers out there, the travellers, or just anyone who doesn't want to lug around the big guide that's more than 3 times the size - cut out the riff-raff and get to the good stuff! This will pretty much cover everything you need!

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