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Black Gold Buttress

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Access issues inherited from Blue Mountains

The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Do not cut flora and keep any tracks and infrastructure as minimal as possible.

Practically all crags are either in National Park or in council reserve: dog owners are reminded that dogs are not allowed in National Parks at any time and fines have been issued, while for crags on council reserve the BMCC leash law requires that dogs be on-leash.

Ethic inherited from Blue Mountains

Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs. If you do the bolts may be removed.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

If you have benefited from climbing infrastructure in NSW, please consider making a donation towards maintenance costs. The Sydney Rockclimbing Club Rebolting Fund finances the replacement of old bolts on existing climbs and the maintenance of other hardware such as fixed ropes and anchors. The SRC purchases hardware, such as bolts and glue, and distributes them to volunteer rebolters across the state of New South Wales. For more information, including donation details, visit https://sydneyrockies.org.au/rebolting/

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it.

However, the fast growing scrub can conceal walking tracks in mere months, making remote and less popular crags slightly more difficult and fun to navigate to. Some appropriately discreet pruning is a far better alternative then track braiding (which causes far more damage).

However, do so only on Council land and definitely not in the National Park. Remember, to maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Do not cut flora and keep any tracks and infrastructure as minimal as possible or risk possible closures.

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route

Start: Corner 20m right of the cave. 3 pitches.

FA: M.Law & J.Worrall, 1974

A classic ramp?

Start: 6m to the right of 'White Light'.

  1. 18m (-) Up the flake to belay.

  2. 24m (15) Up 2m to traverse line, up to cave, up to belay on ranp.

  3. 20m (-) Up the ramp.

  4. 24m (-) Up to the chimney, into the back and through to the other side. up.

FA: M.Law & J.Worrall, 1974

Start: As for 'Attila', then out right to the arete. Now rebolted (2016?) on rings. Stunning winters afternoon climbing.

FA: J.Smoothy & G.Bradbury, 1987

Rap in, climb out long wall with a hanging belay. This is High 'n' Wild's 50m abseil! Fix a rap rope and abseil straight down the front face to belay on lip of roof and tiny ledge for your toes.

FA: M.Stacey & B.Maddison, 1997

The line of u bolts from base of buttress intersecting Texas Tea traverse at 15mtrs and continuing up face. A strenuous and extremely chossy first pitch. This route shares 6m of climbing with Screen Gems however if your following carrots you're off route. Has gained a few grades after it was mentioned it shares Screen Gems crux and gained three extra bolts (20/11/14) after J.Smoothy tactfully convinced route developer that broken ankles and shattered shins and knees are not in vogue and never have been. Climb in one pitch (recomended!)from ground with 20 draws (a couple of long ones too) or use DUBB at 15mtrs and multi. Pull mantle crux and dance on up for ever. Take one or two #0.4 camalots for break near top (essential). DUBB @ top.

FFA: Evan Wells . Jacindi Jackson, 27 Oct 2013

The right arete of the buttress. Start either for for Screen Gems (original start), or Long Distance Relationships (better).

  1. Up and traverse leftwards to belay on arete.

  2. Up technical arete to top.

FA: J.Smoothy & M.Stacey, 1986

Nice name? Big and Interesting!

Start: As for jungle bash of previous route. To short arete,up through bulge past a couple of carrots. Up.

FA: G.Bradbury & M.Baker, 2000

Start: As for the previous two routes. Straight up the wall.

FA: G.Child, R.Muehlen & J.Smoothy, 1990

This cliff is unlocated

If you know where this cliff is then please take a minute to locate it for the climbing community. contact us if you have any issues.

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