Exposed and steep arete - all ringbolts. Best to use double ropes to stop rope cutting potential as some of the moves are on the opposite side of the arete to the bolts.
To get to the start belay, either climb first pitch of 'Attila', or fix a rope and just rap in from above (easiest) to tiny ledge belay (double rings) about 6m left of the arete. Traverse out right above void (3 rings) - then up the black arete.
Rap in, climb out long wall with a hanging belay. This is High 'n' Wild's 50m abseil! Fix a rap rope and abseil straight down the front face to belay on lip of roof and tiny ledge for your toes.
The line of u bolts from base of buttress intersecting Texas Tea traverse at 15mtrs and continuing up face. A strenuous and extremely chossy first pitch. This route shares 6m of climbing with Screen Gems however if your following carrots you're off route. Has gained a few grades after it was mentioned it shares Screen Gems crux and gained three extra bolts (20/11/14) after J.Smoothy tactfully convinced route developer that broken ankles and shattered shins and knees are not in vogue and never have been. Climb in one pitch (recomended!)from ground with 20 draws (a couple of long ones too) or use DUBB at 15mtrs and multi. Pull mantle crux and dance on up for ever.
Take one or two #0.4 camalots for break near top (essential). DUBB @ top.
