Engineers Cascade




Very short and easy to access sport routes. Morning shade.

Access issues inherited from Blue Mountains

The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Do not cut flora and keep any tracks and infrastructure as minimal as possible.

Practically all crags are either in National Park or in council reserve: dog owners are reminded that dogs are not allowed in National Parks at any time and fines have been issued, while for crags on council reserve the BMCC leash law requires that dogs be on-leash.


Park at 27 Kenny Street, Mt Victoria (at end of the road). Don't block driveways. Follow walking track downhill for 100m to little rocky lookout, walk down around right side of this to red shale track. Turn left onto this track and follow it for a hundred metres - where it drops down (via a ladder) into a sheltered cave area. This is the crag! 5 minutes walk and suitable for kids.

Ethic inherited from Blue Mountains

Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs. If you do the bolts may be removed.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

If you have benefited from climbing infrastructure in NSW, please consider making a donation towards maintenance costs. The Sydney Rockclimbing Club Rebolting Fund finances the replacement of old bolts on existing climbs and the maintenance of other hardware such as fixed ropes and anchors. The SRC purchases hardware, such as bolts and glue, and distributes them to volunteer rebolters across the state of New South Wales. For more information, including donation details, visit

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it.

However, the fast growing scrub can conceal walking tracks in mere months, making remote and less popular crags slightly more difficult and fun to navigate to. Some appropriately discreet pruning is a far better alternative then track braiding (which causes far more damage).

However, do so only on Council land and definitely not in the National Park. Remember, to maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Do not cut flora and keep any tracks and infrastructure as minimal as possible or risk possible closures.


Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)


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Walk right (facing out) from bottom of ladder, through some bushes to a short wall to the right of a scrubby corner. Up the right wall past 2 carrots and trad gear.

FA: J Croker & R Croker, 2007

The line of rings 10m right (facing the cliff) of the ladder through a very steep cave.

FA: J.Clark & J.Kurko, 1995

The next few routes are 20m right of Bending Moments, and right of the waterfall (that sometimes isn't flowing).

A very hard looking direct start to Dance of the Nymph on ringbolts through a steep cave section. A project?

Traverse the lip of the cave from right to left on FHs.

FA: G.Miller, 1993

Start as for Dance of the Nymph but climb straight up middle of grey wall.

Straight up on the right side of the buttress, 2m right of Dance of the Nymph.

FA: V.Kondos, 1993

Miniature route up short arete with premature lower-offs, 2m right of Sly Drool (left edge of good looking steeper buttress)

Crag classic up steep juggy line. Starts about 20m right of Sly Drool. Up and right through steepness and finish up left side of overhung arete to rap chain. Stay low past the 3rd bolt for maximum fun (contrived but better rock and position). Rebolted 2018

FA: G.Miller, 1993

Steep line climbing right side of prow starting 5m right of Psychotic. Closely spaced Ubolts with white glue. Might be a project? Rap chain under final roof.

Start 2m left of 'Mechanical Advantage'. Up left to flake then through steepness to short corner/arete and up face to anchors

FA: S Hawkshaw, 2004

A fun little pump.

FA: V.Kondos, 1993

Right side of buttress, just left of overhung corner crack (has this been climbed??) Looks like it should be a dawdle but is a bit tricky.

FA: L & C.Hale, 1999

Half equipped steep arete just right Living in the Outside. Random carrots, rings and bolt scars. Has been a project for decades.

Set by Fred Yule

Start: This route and Vibes start from the same belay on the ledge, right of where the guide topo shows (right of the bush). Up and left.

FA: M.Law, 1993

Start: On the ledge from the shared belay, up and R. Exposed!

FA: M.Law, 1993

Start: Belay from the Nucklunder/ Vibes belay and walk right along ledge to belay near the end. Bring second across and get exposed!

FA: M.Law, 1993

Walk over the hill and back down in gulley, or walk in from XXXX bouldering. Hard start and hard finish.

FA: Damo Taylor, 2006

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