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Summary
Sandstone
Rap in climb out routes with big exposure. Also a popular tourist lookout with a problematic history of rope swings and base jumping (both now banned after several accidents and one death).
Description
One of the best venues in the area for big scares and big air. If a rarely repeated adventure is what you are after than this may be just the piece of rock for you. Many routes are bolted with carrots and require a bit of gear to keep the fear at bay. Depending on what route you choose to quest up, leaving a rap rope fixed so that you can still get out if it all becomes a bit much might be an idea. Enjoy the atmosphere.
Access issues
It's in the National Park so no dogs.
Approach
Park at end of Ridgewill Road in Blackheath (north of the highway on west side of town). Walk/ride 5.1km along mostly flat fireroad to top of cliff. It's highly recommend to use a MTB, and pack a spare tyre as the road is notoriously covered in sharp rocks. It takes about 20 mins on a bike or an hour to walk.
Ethic inherited from Blue Mountains
Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs. If you do the bolts may be removed.
Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.
If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.
If you have benefited from climbing infrastructure in NSW, please consider making a donation towards maintenance costs. The Sydney Rockclimbing Club Rebolting Fund finances the replacement of old bolts on existing climbs and the maintenance of other hardware such as fixed ropes and anchors. The SRC purchases hardware, such as bolts and glue, and distributes them to volunteer rebolters across the state of New South Wales. For more information, including donation details, visit https://sydneyrockies.org.au/rebolting/
It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!
The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it.
However, the fast growing scrub can conceal walking tracks in mere months, making remote and less popular crags slightly more difficult and fun to navigate to. Some appropriately discreet pruning is a far better alternative then track braiding (which causes far more damage).
However, do so only on Council land and definitely not in the National Park. Remember, to maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Do not cut flora and keep any tracks and infrastructure as minimal as possible or risk possible closures.
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