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Crayfish Creek

  • Grade context: AU
  • Photos: 1
  • Ascents: 7
11

Seasonality

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Description

Hard to find, hard to see and rarely visited. A wall of single pitch routes on a north-west facing wall on the south side of Crayfish Creek. Infamous for a bolt pulling incident that almost ended Rob Lebreton (i.e. Human cannonball!). Treat all bolts here with caution as none have been verified. There are rumours some bolts may have been replaced.

Access issues inherited from Hanging Rock

It's in the National Park so no dogs.

Approach

From Hanging Rock walk along cliff edge for 200m then drop left into dry gully. Cross this and up left side and walk 100m along gullys west side to where cliff drops into the large canyon of Cray Fish creek. The rap in point is a flat toppped rock platform at GPS -33.5822, 150.3102. Fix 50m rope to large tree and rap down. To exit at end of day either jumar up fixed rope or walk upstream and attempt to find an exit ledge system gully about 50-100m upstream (difficult to locate from above). This is the shared base jumpers exit apparently.

Ethic inherited from Blue Mountains

Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs. If you do the bolts may be removed.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

If you have benefited from climbing infrastructure in NSW, please consider making a donation towards maintenance costs. The Sydney Rockclimbing Club Rebolting Fund finances the replacement of old bolts on existing climbs and the maintenance of other hardware such as fixed ropes and anchors. The SRC purchases hardware, such as bolts and glue, and distributes them to volunteer rebolters across the state of New South Wales. For more information, including donation details, visit https://sydneyrockies.org.au/rebolting/

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it.

However, the fast growing scrub can conceal walking tracks in mere months, making remote and less popular crags slightly more difficult and fun to navigate to. Some appropriately discreet pruning is a far better alternative then track braiding (which causes far more damage).

However, do so only on Council land and definitely not in the National Park. Remember, to maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Do not cut flora and keep any tracks and infrastructure as minimal as possible or risk possible closures.

Tags

Routes

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Grade Route

Start 30m left of Kiss or be Kissed. Bolts out of corner and up wall to ledge and rap chain.

FA: Mike Myers & Dave Filan, 1991

Start at short faint corner.

  1. 40m 19. Up corner 2m, left and up flake, traverse 2m right, up (bolts) to ledge and chain (take small cams).

  2. 20m 15. 3 bolts right and up (bolt).

FA: Mike Myers & Rob Lebreton, 1989

25m right of of Kiss or be Kissed starting at cairn. Boulder start past bolt to ledge. Left over bulge a few metres, 2 bolts, traverse left along holds (2 bolts) and up to ledge and chain.

FA: Mike Myers & Rob Lebreton, 1989

Open project starting as for Hot and Hunky and going straight up? Has been a project since the early 90s - go for it!

Up to ledge as for Hot and 'hunky. Walk right to black streak, through roof (bolt), past breaks and right to bolt, up then left to bolt, straight up (2 bolts) to cam then 3m left and bolts to ledge and chain. Cams to #2 and double ropes recommended.

FA: Mike Myers, 1989

Scene of Rob Lebreton's near death groundfall when a bolt pulled. Starts 5m right of Big Meaty at bolt.

  1. 10m 24. Stickclip and up along lip to flake. Flake (bolt) to ledge (good pitch).

  2. 35m 25. Out left and up wall and bulge to Big Meaty's rap chain. 6 bolts and medium cams.

FA: Rob Lebreton, 1990

Start as for Human Cannonball and traverse right on lip instead of going up. Up from last bolt. Many bolts.

FA: Mike Myers, 1990

No info known about this route as it is not listed in print guides.

No info known about this route as it is not listed in print guides.

The next routes are on a wall about 250m south-west of the previous routes. Access is via scramble down gully (canyoners exit?) at GPS -33.5864, 150.30933. Once down this gully walk around right to find huge camping cave (potential aboriginal site). Walk north along cliff base under impressive wall for 150m to find first route at GPS -33.5847, 150.3083. Look for bolts.

The left route. One point of aid. Carrots and could be some trad? Currently has a 'biner on high bolt - no visible lower-off.

FA: M Ellims 1990s

The right route. Either starts up right facing flake for aprox 8m then traverse left onto bolted face - or maybe starts at the corner to the left. Either way - its trad at the start then a mix of carrots and FHs in the upper section. At least 5 bolts visible from the ground - no anchor visible.

FA: p de Joux 1990s

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Activity

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