A reasonably remote-feeling big cliff which catches afternoon sun when it's cold. Mainly sport routes plus a few classic cracklines.

© (rogerb)

Access issues inherited from Blue Mountains

The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Do not cut flora and keep any tracks and infrastructure as minimal as possible.

Practically all crags are either in National Park or in council reserve: dog owners are reminded that dogs are not allowed in National Parks at any time and fines have been issued, while for crags on council reserve the BMCC leash law requires that dogs be on-leash.

For the latest access related information, or to report something of concern, visit the Australian Climbing Association NSW Blue Mountains page at


Approach as for Celebrity Crag, but continue along the main trail down into the gully. After crossing the water stream (with handrail on right) take the immediate right after the hand rail (alternatively walk up steps for ~10m and duck behind the sign on the right, to avoid the mud). Continue down to second creek crossing (sometimes dry). After crossing the creek you pass under a fallen tree, and 30m later there is a dirty rock slope on the right (immediately after some steep mossy stairs). Take this right turn up to the cliff line. Follow the cliff line left for some while until you reach a chicken wire fence. Step over this, pass through between a boulder and the wall and the cliff will become visible above.

© (rogerb)

Ethic inherited from Blue Mountains

Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs. If you do the bolts may be removed.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

At many Blue Mountains crags, the somewhat close spacing of routes and prolific horizontal featuring means that it is easy to envisage literally hundreds of trivial linkups. By all means climb these to your hearts content but, unless it is an exceptional case due to some significant objective merit, please generally refrain from writing up linkups. A proliferation of descriptions of trivial linkups would only clutter up the guide and add confusion and will generally not add value to your fellow climbers. (If you still can't resist, consider adding a brief note to the parent route description, rather than cluttering up the guide with a whole new route entry).

If you have benefited from climbing infrastructure in NSW, please consider making a donation towards maintenance costs. The Sydney Rockclimbing Club Rebolting Fund finances the replacement of old bolts on existing climbs and the maintenance of other hardware such as fixed ropes and anchors. The SRC purchases hardware, such as bolts and glue, and distributes them to volunteer rebolters across the state of New South Wales. For more information, including donation details, visit

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds and minimisation/removal of tick marks becomes part of your climbing routine. Consider bringing a water squirt bottle and mop-up rag to better remove chalk. Only use soft (hair/nylon) bristled brushes, never steel brushes.

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it.

Remember, to maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Do not cut flora and keep any tracks and infrastructure as minimal as possible or risk possible closures.

For the latest access related information, or to report something of concern, visit the Australian Climbing Association NSW Blue Mountains page at


Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)


Add route(s) Add topo Reorder Bulk edit Convert grades
Grade Route
1 18 20m
2 19 20m
3 20 40m
4 19 20m

A good 110m 4-pitch gear route around the south side of Heathcliff. Bring a double set of wires and cams (a #4 cam is useful for the roof traverse on P2, but not required as there is smaller gear nearby). Beware of some loose rock on all pitches, particularly the large death block midway up p1 on the left.

Access as for Heathcliff. After the final creek crossing the trail traverses below the cliffline. Unearthed is the first major crack system (initially a thin open-book corner) you will encounter.

  1. 20m (18) Up corner crack, belay at second shale band beneath roof crack.

  2. 20m (19) Rightward traverse under roof with feeling. Pull the corner, up to ledge.

  3. 40m (19-20) Steep crack to easy gully. Belay below yellow/orange corner.

  4. 20m (19) There are several finishes, but direct up the corner is good, despite the poor looking rock. Belay off carrots on top. Walk off.

FA: R McLoughlin, D Murphy & M Wilson, 1998

P4) Up crack and left at top. Good rock (!), pro and climbing. Best pitch of the route.

FA: C Kritzinger & D Smith, 2004

Start in the same corner as 'Unearthed'

FA: M Wilson & R McLoughlin, 2000

1 20 M1 20m
2 22 40m
3 18 15m

110m multi-pitch. Undercut corner 8m left of 'Unearthed'.

  1. 20m (20M1)

  2. 40m (22)

  3. 15m (18)

FA: M Wilson & R McLoughlin

Undercut corner 20m left of 'Unearthed'

FA: M Wilson & R McLoughlin, 2000

The following routes are on the main wall and listed from LEFT to RIGHT (opposite to how they are approached - confusing!)

1 22 29m
2 20 18m
3 25 22m

First two pitches are sport on rings, gear is needed for the third pitch.

  1. 20m (22)

  2. 18m (20)

  3. 22m (25)

Start: At left end of the crag.

FA: M Scholes, I Valenta & B Helmrich, 2007

Up the middle of the wall about 10m right of a big corner.

FA: R Bourne, 2007

This is an access pitch to the next three routes. Start below a big pillar on the wall about 10m up.

FA: I Valenta, 2008

The next three routes are extensions to Pete Rhodes and usually climbed in one pitch from the ground. All three can be cleaned using a 70m rope.

The left line of the four. Use many long runners, including slings, to reduce rope drag if climbing from the ground in one pitch. Can be cleaned with a single 70m - just. Upgraded from 23 to 24 after hold broke in 2013 (thanks Adski!)

Note: As at 18 Nov, 2019, there are raptors (of the avian variety) nesting nearby. Please avoid.

FA: I Valenta & R Dun, 2008

Warning Rock: Hollow Flake

The middle line and pick of the three.

FA: I Valenta, 2008

The right line of the three.

FA: M Scholes & I Valenta, 2008

First 4 bolts of Pete Rhodes then right traverse along flake and up up up long orange wall. Use a long runner on bolt 4 and 6 to help reduce rope drag. Lowering off fine on a 70m rope.

FA: Heath Black, 14 Jan 2019

1 20 25m
2 20m
3 15m

Crack to chains.

  1. 25m (20)

  2. 20m

  3. 15m

FA: I Valenta & R Dunn, 2004

1 18 18m
2 19 20m
3 20 22m
  1. 18m (18) Start as per 'The Rift', a few moves on the slab then left up the ramp, on to wall.

  2. 20m (19) Up the wall on pockets and breaks. Trend right near the top. (can be linked with pitch 1)

  3. 22m (20) Up vague corner, then left to arete. All the way to the top on carrots or finish up pitch 3 of the Rift if you don't have any bolt plates.

FA: Ivan Valenta, 2008

1 19 20m
2 18 20m
3 17 15m

Start: 10m left of the large block that leans on the main face.

  1. 20m (19) Up slab.

  2. 20m (18) Up wall to ledge.

  3. 15m (17) Up arete

If you climb with double 50's you can abseil straight off the rings. A 50m rope reaches the ground.

FA: I Valenta & R Dunn, 2004

1 20 25m
2 17 30m

A great adventure mixing well protected trad climbing and bolted wall climbing. The top pitch has a lot of hangerless carrot bolts - you will need at minimum 10 bolt plates (probably more). It is possible to link the pitches if you use long runners. Starts just left of the block.

  1. 25m (20) Thin crack that protects well with lots of wires & medium cams for 15m then 4 carrot bolts to hanging belay.

  2. 30m (17) Right a bit off the belay then back left and up long wall to belay at the very top of the cliff at the rap descent chains. All bolts on this pitch.

FA: R Dunn & I Valenta, 2004

Confusingly this is not listed in the 2015 print guide, and is regularly mistaken for Chip Off the Old Block. Step off centre of block up shallow dihedral to shared anchors with 'Chip Off the Old Block'.

Start: Off the top of the block. Stepping right onto slab

FA: I Valenta & R Dunn, 2004

Traverse left then up wall past carrots.

Start: At the top of Chip Off The Old Block.

FA: I Valenta & R Dunn, 2004

Up crack with natural protection then past 6 carrots to ledge and anchor as for "Chip Off The Old Block"

Start: At obvious left facing crack 10m right of block.

FA: R Dun & I Valenta, 2004

1 17 30m
2 18 25m
3 19 25m

Start: As for 'Plumbers Crack' .

  1. 30m (17)

  2. 25m (18)

  3. 25m (19)

FA: I Valenta & V Valenta

1 22 25m
2 20 25m
  1. 25m (22) Hard start on tiny incuts.

  2. 25m (20) Up on good rock. Take 1 bolt plate, the rest are rings. You can JUST make it back to the ground with a doubled 80m rope. Hurray!

FA: I & V Valenta, 2007

As for "Pumpkin Puree" then right line of rings to ledge and DRBB

FA: I Valenta & V Valenta

5m left of "Thing 2". Thin, fingery wall to vague flakeline, then left and up through interesting holds and feature.

FA: Simon Alsop, 28 Oct 2016

1 22 17m
2 20 48m


  1. 17m (22) Up 'Flake' right and up to belay.

  2. 48m (20) Follow carrots and rings to top. Only 3 bolt plates required.

FA: John Smoothy & G Williams, 2000

1 20 28m
2 21 32m

Diagonal Crack. Join pitch 1 of this with pitch 2 of next route for classy two pitch 20.

  1. 28m (20) Crack past 6 carrots and #1 & #3 friends to rings.

  2. 32m (21) Up right to slab and rings

FA: John Smoothy & G Williams, 2000

1 22 23m
2 23 25m
3 15 15m

A good long adventure - most people link the first two pitches and ignore the top one. To clean requires a mid-height re-thread using a 70m rope. Start at slab 5m left of 'Bad Blood'

  1. 23m (22) Thin moves up slab past 9 rings to anchor

  2. 25m (23) 'Steep' climbing through a small roof to a 2 ring belay

  3. 15m (15) Easy to top but runout! No rap anchor at top.

FA: I Valenta & R Dun, 2004

1 19 25m
2 22 20m

Start at far right end of cliff under a patch of orange rock. Bad blood is the left line of bolts. Pitches can be linked easily using a single 70m rope for lower-off.

  1. 25m (19) Hard move off the ground then up groove and juggy wall

  2. 20m (22) Straight up steep Wall

FA: I Valenta & R Dun, 2004

Start: as for BB then right line of bolts

FA: Damien Heath & Tony Williams, 2003

1 18 30m
2 10 40m
  1. 30m (18)

  2. 40m (10)

FA: G.Short & W Williams, 2007

Start: at 2nd pitch belay of Boadicea.

Take lots of plates.

FA: G Short, 2007

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Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): Simon Carter

Date: 2019

ISBN: 9780958079082

The latest comprehensive, latest and greatest Blue Mountains Climbing Guide is here and it has more routes than you can poke a clip stick at! 3421 to be exact. You are not going to get bored.

Author(s): Simon Carter

Date: 2019

ISBN: 9780958079075

Simon Carter's "Best of the Blue" is the latest selected climbing guide book for the Blue Mountains and covers 1000 routes and 19 different climbing areas. For all the sport climbers out there, the travellers, or just anyone who doesn't want to lug around the big guide that's more than 3 times the size - cut out the riff-raff and get to the good stuff! This will pretty much cover everything you need!

Accommodations nearby more Hide

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