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Description

Many routes are 35m+ and will make your forearms feel like they have been bludgeoned by blood. Most routes benefit from judicious use of roller biners at kneepoints, and long slings in between.

Sun till 11 AM in the summer. Starts getting shade at 9 AM AEDT and is fully shaded by 10 AM AEDT at equinox (Mar/Sep) (or 8 AM / 9AM AEST). No sun in winter. Wind proof gear is a must in the winter.

Bedrock seepage occurs on several parts of the wall, more so on the right side, and this is produced consistently irrespective of rain or drought. It does however evaporate nicely with a bit of wind and lower humidity, so it just means you might like to avoid calm humid days.

Access issues inherited from Ngula Bulgarabang/ Radiata Plateau

Most of this area is no longer private property as it was purchased by the NSW State Government in late 2019. A new Plan of Management is being drawn up (2020) with a focus on the area being a regional park, managed by National Parks. The Nest is the only known developed climbing area still on private property.

Approach

After rapping in, walk 15m down the track and turn right. The wall looms over you after about 50m. Mind the 50m lower cliff edge close to the track, there are spots where you wouldn't want to trip. Also beware snakes as several have been seen on the track.

Descent notes

Mind your rope length as routes often lower off beyond the cliff edge, or at the very least significantly lower than where the route starts. You will need a 70m ROPE MINIMUM! And tie a knot in the end of your rope.

Ethic inherited from Elphinstone

There are many CLOSED PROJECTS in both sectors. As a matter of respect, stay off them unless you have permission from the person who bolted it or the project becomes listed as open.

Tags

Routes

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Grade Route

Bold sports climbing at its finest, if that's your thing. Batman start, suck your gonads up and steel thy self for a memorable journey, including some very long runouts in the top half.

FA: Chris Coppard, Jan 2012

Start off the large cairn and head straight up the left side of the arete and wall above to some long moves. Has a couple of runouts but on quite easy moves. From the 2nd bolt to the top crux bolt is good 24-25 mileage climbing, if you take the easy options through the half-height cruxes.

FFA: Chris Coppard, Jan 2012

Start as per Pollux and head up the line of bolts into the techy dihedral above. From the 2nd bolt to the dihedral is great at about 24-25 if you're looking for some mileage when Tiger Snatch is occupied.

FFA: Rowan Druce, 5 May 2012

Start from the cairn and head up and across the right face to rejoin the arete at half height. Boulder up leaning arete to finish above the small roof.

FFA: Lee Cossey, 18 Jan 2012

Wowsers! All time mega classic. Start as per Aristocat, boulder its main crux and then head into a mind boggling amount of sustained climbing, culminating with a potentially heart breaking finish. Absolute stonker! Stu

Andrea Hah's 2013 ascent was the first Aussie female ascent at this grade in Australia.

FFA: Lee Cossey, Jan 2013

Tiger Cat to the half way jugs then across right and finish as for Beta Vinyl. The Don't Believe the Hype of Elphinstone.

Starts up Beta Vinyl, goes straight into the Tiger Cat crux, and then blasts directly upwards via some rad looking independent bouldering. Might finish direct up the Aristocat top crux ... or veer R up Beta Vinyl ... or hell why not into Sue's Last Ride. Supposed to be "the everyman's 34".........

Beta Vinyl into Tiger Cat. All the cruxes and no rest, outrageous! Grade unconfirmed.

Starts 5m right of Tiger Cat and is feisty straight off the deck with some brilliant and brutal bouldering. Suck in some oxygen at halfway then head up to join Love Cats at its crux, following this to where LC and TS trend back left. Instead peel off rightward under roof to motor up the headwall. Hoik your rig left and right while trying not to feel like a flag in a stiff wind. Sitting Bull joins into the same headwall finish.

FFA: Lee Cossey, 13 Feb 2013

Starts a few meters right of Beta Vinyl and goes up somewhere! This is the one with several fixed biners in the first 15m.

Start 8m right of Beta Vinyl, 3m L of Tiger Snatch. Heads straight up, passing through the left end of the low horizontal break of Velvet project / Tiger Snatch. Then heads straight up to Sitting Bull's final break. Finish as for Sue's Last Ride.

FA: Tom O'Halloran, 10 Nov 2016

Julian Saunders closed project. Start 3m right of Kitten Mittens behind the large rock at cliff base. Head up and left to join the last few bolts of Tiger Cat.

For the most part this a Tiger Snatch variant. More 'doable' than Tiger Snatch as it avoids the complicated dyno in its upper section, albeit with an extra 20 move price tag. A route for the pumpers. Head left off the halfway rest as per Velvet Love. Clip a bolt, and then head upward and back to the right to clip a bolt of Beta Vinyl. Rejoin Tiger Snatch to the chain.

FA: Julian Saunders, Nov 2013

A similar linkup to Tiger Vinyl, but stays in Love Cats all the way to Beta Vinyl then takes Beta Vinyl to the top. Doing it this way avoids some of the zigging and zagging that TV has.

FA: Tom O'Halloran, 2018

This variant finish to Velvet Love has turned out to be the most popular route on the wall. Climb for 15m to obvious rest at small break. Head right to a funky crux, then back left to join Tiger Cat at the lip, just under the chain. Originally graded 29, general consensus is that it is a little harder. Enjoy yourself!

FFA: Lee Cossey, Aug 2012

A variant finish to Tiger Snatch. Instead of heading left under the final roof, head right to finish up Beta Vinyl.

FFA: Lee Cossey, 13 Feb 2013

Tiger Snatch to the jump then head right into Kitten Mittens for the drive by move. Finish up Tiger Vinyl. A classic!

FFA: Tom O'Halloran, 8 Nov 2018

Tiger Snatch to the crux then diagonally right forever. After doing the Tiger Snatch crux, follow good holds R to join Sitting Bull in the roof. Turn the lip as per Sitting Bull, cross Bandula at the top of the flake, and join Brummel Hook at its 2nd last bolt to the top. Around 2013 Quentin Chastagnier did a similar linkup via a crimpy traverse a few metres higher, called "Le Tigre … " (TBC), grade 31.

FFA: Will Monks, 26 May 2019

Originally bolted by Rowan Druce and generously offered to the masses, Tom O'Halloran, seeing a classic on offer, was quick to pounce. Start as per Brummel Hook (also possible to start up 1st 2 bolts of Tiger Snatch), then head straight up the immaculate orange stone to finish on the high black head wall. Slightly easier than Tiger Cat and originally given 32, but has now seen an upgrade. Andrea

FFA: Tom O'Halloran, Sep 2012

Climb Sitting Bull to the final break. Up a few moves then start heading right past bolt to come into Bandula crux. Finish as for Bandula. Lots of moves, no rest! Tom

FFA: Tom O'Halloran, 20 Mar 2016

One of the best lines at the crag!! Climb Brummel Hook for 18m to just above the roof. Where Brummel Hook drifts R, instead head straight up the orange flake and keep on going and going. Squeeze hard, keep tension and don't let go. Luke Hansen

FFA: Rowan Druce, Jan 2013

Start 2m right of Tiger Snatch before the ledge drops away. Sustained face climbing leads to difficult roof moves on typically wet holds. Breach this and head rightward into the water runnel. 60m rope is only barely enough to lower off last bolt.

FFA: Rowan Druce, 2012

Climb the first six bolts of Ristretto to the letterbox slot just above a small rooflet. Moves to the left and then straight up the wall between Ristretto and Brummel Hook. Make like a bird through the roof and continue on to finish as per Brummel Hook.

FA: Julian Saunders, 27 Mar 2016

Start as per Brummel Hook and head 5m right at the second bolt. Sustained and technical face climbing leads to a vague 'letter box' rest, and a series of boulder problems above to an anchor underneath the big roof.

FFA: Julian Saunders, Sep 2012

Julian Saunders closed project. From the chains of Ristretto launch through the roof into what has to rate as one of the best dynos ever in the entire world. If you hold the swing, head right along the lip, up the wall, through the bulge, and into the high corner system. A 70m rope is a minimum if you are lowering from the chain.

Roof double dyno extension of Ristretto. Do Ristretto, dyno through the roof then keep on truckin' up the face into the big block and break. Continue up to join into the last few metres of Brummel Hook. Full value.

FFA: Tom O'Halloran, 2013

There are several lines to the right of Ristretto that end under 'the great roof' that are in the process of being bolted.

Closed project. Extension to Baby Wombat's Week. Out big roof into upper roof then headwall to finish at Schweiny. Tom

Set: Tom O'Halloran

As for Piggy Pikelet, at crescent continue straight to under arch feature. At height of PP anchor traverse 2m right to finish. Tom

FA: Tom O'Halloran, 22 Sep 2020

A fun and pumpy route with good holds following a boney start. Follow the first 8 bolts of Schweinebaumeln then step left following a short flake to end beneath the main roof.

FFA: lee cossey, 1 Mar 2018

"Dangle pigs". Australia's 2nd 35. Formerly a Lee Cossey project, generously gifted to Alex to keep him occupied. Starts just shy of the wall splitting arete 15m right of Ristretto. Tends rightward to breach the main roof close to its right hand end, and up wall above.

Set: Lee Cossey

FFA: Alex Megos, 10 Apr 2015

Rowan Druce closed project. Straight up the obvious arete at the right end of the main wall.

Start as for Lord Elphinstone but then head diagonally across the wall to the right. 70m rope is NOT enough to lower off the anchor, but should be ok from last bolt.

Set: rowan druce

FA: Tom O'Halloran, 2 Mar 2019

Start as for Lord Elphinstone and The Elephant Man then heads right to vague prow and all the way up up up to the top roof. The boulder in the roof is a tricky one, finishing with an all points off dyno a loooong way above the ground. Finishes out on the highest, furthest out part of the cliff. All time!

Stopping at the hands free rest under the roof is an insanely good 33.

FA: Tom O'Halloran, 11 Nov 2016

Buckle up for adventure. First 2 bolts of Green Grass then left and up to intersect The Milkbar on left side of big roof. Climb to left of big flake and crux then over to finish as for Lord Elphinstone.

FA: Tom O'Halloran, 1 Oct 2020

All gear has been left on for the rest of this season, except for a few rollers.

FA: Will Monks, 21 Oct

Some new bolted lines break out R from GW around the 12m mark, one drifting R across Zigzagonal to some thin moves just L of the GG crux, into High Hopes then drifting R to GG anchor. Another incomplete line is in progress, staying between Zigzagonal and High Hopes and hopefully finding a way through the big upper roof(s).

Climb Mr Squiggle, then just before the anchor head left into steepness to the top of the crag. Tom

FA: Tom O'Halloran, 29 Oct 2019

Climbs Zigzagonal to the upper crux at the 3rd last bolt then head left for the last bolt of The Elephant Man finishing at its anchor. 70m rope is NOT enough to lower off the anchor, but is ok from last bolt. You also need to clip back in on the way down or else you'll end up stranded a long way out above the lower cliff.

FFA: Tom O'Halloran, 20 Mar 2018

The journey to the centre of the earth could not be this epic. Start as per Green Grass diverging to the left at the seventh bolt when Green Grass heads back to the right. Up Up Up, staying generally just to the left of Green Grass to finish under the high roof.

FFA: Lee Cossey, May 2012

Lee Cossey generously gave this route to a visiting Frenchman who had become rather enamoured with it. Departs Green Grass after its crux and heads straight up and through a series of roofs and beyond. Finish at the chains for Zigzagonal. Lee Tom

FFA: Quentin Chastagnier, Mar 2013

Started at grade 28, quickly went to 29 and may see another advance yet. Either climb with second bolt clipped, or use locking biners on the first (a backclip would see two people go to the valley floor!). Climb up and gently rightward to roof. Head around the lip and hit the accelerator. Traverse left above the lip, up several metres and then break right and up until your forearms resemble base ball bats and you feel like if you fall you will land in the valley way below. Use a minimum 70m rope or you may well land in the valley.

FFA: Lee Cossey, Feb 2012

Starts 15m R of Green Grass and takes the line of maximum steepness to join Green Grass on the upper headwall, hopefully finishing up High Hopes into Nilp (!!). It's like a mirror image of Tiger Cat, but heaps bigger, badder, steeper, harder ... and mossier.

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