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Dumbo Love Sector

19

Seasonality

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Description

Full of great routes in the mid to late 20's. With the odd exception, these routes are long and involved.

Access issues inherited from Ngula Bulgarabang/ Radiata Plateau

Most of this area is no longer private property as it was purchased by the NSW State Government in late 2019. A new Plan of Management is being drawn up (2020) with a focus on the area being a regional park, managed by National Parks. The Nest is the only known developed climbing area still on private property.

Approach

At the base of the rap, head down and take a left through the jungle. After a couple of minutes traverse above a large boulder and cross the creek. Traverse the far side of the creek and around the right side of the large boulder slightly downhill.

A bit overgrown and a few obstacles to negotiate but less than a 5 minute walk from the base of the rap.

Descent notes

Use a 70m rope and tie a knot in the end.

Ethic inherited from Elphinstone

There are many CLOSED PROJECTS in both sectors. As a matter of respect, stay off them unless you have permission from the person who bolted it or the project becomes listed as open.

Tags

Routes

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Grade Route

A long batman start leads to primo thrutching up the blunt prow.

FFA: Scott Boladeras, 2012

Line of bolts right of Kung Fu Muscle and left of The Last Ninja. A unique route for the mountains, bouldery and sustained hard pockets. A visionary bolting effort by Scotty B and inspired siege by Logan.

FA: Logan Barber, 19 Oct 2013

Deservedly popular route. Start right of Shogun , head up and left to the base of the right leaning arch. Punch your way up this and through the ever steepening wall to find some respite on the lesser overhanging headwall.

FFA: Emil Mandyczewsky, 2012

Shared start with The Last Ninja. Head up to desperate boulder problem and right through intimidating roof flake.

FA: Emil Mandyczewsky, 14 May 2013

Amazing line with a tough little beta crux.

FFA: Emil Mandyczewsky, 2012

Mega pumper that connects the start of Fists Of Fury (to the fifth or sixth bolt) into Chao Wa Punch Kick. Take all your draws and you may need to borrow some to make up the 18 that are required.

FFA: Emil Mandyczewsky, 2012

Bouldery start to gain the saw tooth feature at 10m, and then straight up the never ending wall.

FFA: Emil Mandyczewsky, 2012

The obvious wide crack/corner 8m to the right of Chao Wa Punch Kick. Take all the big cams you can rustle up. Finishes at double rings.

FFA: Emil Mandyczewsky, 2012

Start at the base of the wall to the right of Heisenburg Corner. Traverse to arete, head up and come back onto the face to reach the roof. Around this and continue up the face for a rather long way. Probably the line of this sector.

FA: Julian Saunders, 18 Sep 2015

There are three routes that share a common start marked by a small 'dry stone' platform with an undercling horn above it. Boulder up the side pull feature to attain a good break. Traverse left and up through some difficult moves, then continue up for more of the same.

FFA: Julian Saunders, 2012

Julian Saunders closed project. A hellishly long jump to join Treadstone.

Full of funky sequences and memorable holds. Start as per Treadstone but continue up for one bolt more before moving left, over vague lip and into the shallow groove. Some awesome sections above may have you think you are all done. Wrong! Opinion is mixed as to whether it is 27 or 28.

FFA: Julian Saunders, 2012

It is not uncommon to hear whimpering from high up on this super classic. Start as per Treadstone but head straight up the seam and onto the arete above. Continue up the face onto the white streaked, water washed stone, where the bolts cease and the fun factor goes redline.

FFA: Julian Saunders, 2012

Open project. Starts 5m right of Treadstone in the 'bowl'. Gently left and up to join Fallopian Jezabels.

Closed project. Start on the right side of the bowl and climb up and into the corner above.

Start 2m right of Dumbo Love project. An absolute cracker!

Set: chris coghill

FFA: Julian Saunders, Dec 2015

The scene of yet another ethics debacle, where visions collide, egos are bruised and Negotiation is a primitive wallflower. Fact 1. Emil, after considering the amount of available gear placements across the whole route, and much discussion with other developers at Elphinstone, opted to bolt the line and subsequently did the first ascent. Fact 2. Rowan returned from overseas and took umbrage with Emil since he wanted to attempt it on gear. After having had numerous ascents Rowan chopped the routes bolts. One bolt was left in the route toward the top, presumedly due to lack of gear.

FA: Emil Mandyczewsky, 2012

Start as per Person of interest sans bolts. After entering the corner head right past a bolt and up the arete to rejoin Person of interest at its last remaining bolt.

FA: Julian Saunders, Apr 2013

Simon Atkins closed project.

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Selected Guidebooks all

Author(s): Simon Carter

Date: 2019

ISBN: 9780958079082

The latest comprehensive, latest and greatest Blue Mountains Climbing Guide is here and it has more routes than you can poke a clip stick at! 3421 to be exact. You are not going to get bored.

Author(s): Simon Carter

Date: 2019

ISBN: 9780958079075

Simon Carter's "Best of the Blue" is the latest selected climbing guide book for the Blue Mountains and covers 1000 routes and 19 different climbing areas. For all the sport climbers out there, the travellers, or just anyone who doesn't want to lug around the big guide that's more than 3 times the size - cut out the riff-raff and get to the good stuff! This will pretty much cover everything you need!

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