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Seasonality

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Summary

Crag was closed throughout 2020 to reduce the post-bushfire spread of a sporadic phytophora fungus (spread by us walking around) which can kill endangered plants species. Reopened Jan 2021.

Description

A very good sunny day alternative as it stays in the shade to late in the day. The left side of the main wall starts getting sun about 2.30 in summer, the steeper right side gets another hour or more of shade Not a crag that you want to spend any time at if its windy or colder than about 15C. Much of this info is thanks to Steve Grkovic and Megan Turnbull at www.BMTopos.com, paper guide can be printed from site.

Access issues

This crag is in National Park, please behave accordingly. In particular do not damage any vegetation, as there are some rare endangered plants which live near this crag and on the walk-in and NOWHERE ELSE. If climbers destroy the plants' peace, National Parks will probably do the same to climbers - don't stuff it for the rest of us!

Approach

25 mins on the fire trail (or less than 10 mins on a mountain bike - well worth bringing), then a 15 min walking track approach. Much of this trail is hard to find post fires. There is a 15m downclimb aided by fixed ropes and rungs, most people don't rope up for this but take care.

Ethic inherited from Blue Mountains

Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs. If you do the bolts may be removed.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

If you have benefited from climbing infrastructure in NSW, please consider making a donation towards maintenance costs. The Sydney Rockclimbing Club Rebolting Fund finances the replacement of old bolts on existing climbs and the maintenance of other hardware such as fixed ropes and anchors. The SRC purchases hardware, such as bolts and glue, and distributes them to volunteer rebolters across the state of New South Wales. For more information, including donation details, visit https://sydneyrockies.org.au/rebolting/

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it.

However, the fast growing scrub can conceal walking tracks in mere months, making remote and less popular crags slightly more difficult and fun to navigate to. Some appropriately discreet pruning is a far better alternative then track braiding (which causes far more damage).

However, do so only on Council land and definitely not in the National Park. Remember, to maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Do not cut flora and keep any tracks and infrastructure as minimal as possible or risk possible closures.

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Areas

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Main Wall cliff
33
649
23m
6
Outskirts cliff
6
22
27m
1

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