Farside Guide

A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.

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Warning

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Contributors

Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

Ben Jenga Lee Cujes Ben Hanley Rob Medlicott Lucas C Jason McCarthy Macciza a.k.a. Macca Paul Frothy Thomson Ryan Holmes Mattia Fornari

The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.

1. Farside 48 in Crag
- 1.1. Critter Crag 8 in Cliff
- 1.2. Main Wall 34 in Cliff
- 1.3. Outskirts 6 in Cliff
2. Index by grade

1. Farside 48 routes in Crag

1 2 3

1 Critter Crag 2 Main Wall 3 Outskirts

Summary:

Seasonality

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: -33.751350, 150.262995

summary

Crag was closed throughout 2020 to reduce the post-bushfire spread of a sporadic phytophora fungus (spread by us walking around) which can kill endangered plants species. Reopened Jan 2021.

description

A very good sunny day alternative as it stays in the shade to late in the day. The left side of the main wall starts getting sun about 2.30 in summer, the steeper right side gets another hour or more of shade Not a crag that you want to spend any time at if its windy or colder than about 15C. Much of this info is thanks to Steve Grkovic and Megan Turnbull at www.BMTopos.com, paper guide can be printed from site.

access issues

This crag is in National Park, please behave accordingly. In particular do not damage any vegetation, as there are some rare endangered plants which live near this crag and on the walk-in and NOWHERE ELSE. If climbers destroy the plants' peace, National Parks will probably do the same to climbers - don't stuff it for the rest of us!

approach

25 mins on the fire trail (or less than 10 mins on a mountain bike - well worth bringing), then a 15 min walking track approach. Much of this trail is hard to find post fires. There is a 15m downclimb aided by fixed ropes and rungs, most people don't rope up for this but take care.

ethic

Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs. If you do the bolts may be removed.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

At many Blue Mountains crags, the somewhat close spacing of routes and prolific horizontal featuring means that it is easy to envisage literally hundreds of trivial linkups. By all means climb these to your hearts content but, unless it is an exceptional case due to some significant objective merit, please generally refrain from writing up linkups. A proliferation of descriptions of trivial linkups would only clutter up the guide and add confusion and will generally not add value to your fellow climbers. (If you still can't resist, consider adding a brief note to the parent route description, rather than cluttering up the guide with a whole new route entry).

If you have benefited from climbing infrastructure in NSW, please consider making a donation towards maintenance costs. The Sydney Rockclimbing Club Rebolting Fund finances the replacement of old bolts on existing climbs and the maintenance of other hardware such as fixed ropes and anchors. The SRC purchases hardware, such as bolts and glue, and distributes them to volunteer rebolters across the state of New South Wales. For more information, including donation details, visit https://sydneyrockies.org.au/rebolting/

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds and minimisation/removal of tick marks becomes part of your climbing routine. Consider bringing a water squirt bottle and mop-up rag to better remove chalk. Only use soft (hair/nylon) bristled brushes, never steel brushes.

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it.

Remember, to maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Do not cut flora and keep any tracks and infrastructure as minimal as possible or risk possible closures.

For the latest access related information, or to report something of concern, visit the Australian Climbing Association NSW Blue Mountains page at https://acansw.org.au/blue-mountains/

inherited from Blue Mountains

1.1. Critter Crag 8 routes in Cliff

Summary:: Lat / Long: -33.750215, 150.262845

	Route	Grade	Style
1	(Unknown 1)		Sport
2	(Unknown 2)		Sport
3	★★ Seething Beetles Mega pitch!! Starts at the second fixed rope on red choss ledge. FFA: Lloyd Wishart	26	Sport 45m, 22
4	★★ Enormous Pleasure Starts above the first fixed rope. Steep pumping through a roof, back jump to clean. FFA: Lloyd Wishard	27	Sport 25m, 12
5	(Unknown 3) As for EP, then right?		Sport
6	★ Kiwi Crumpet Starts with some hard bouldery moves up the left side of the arete, then an easier, but long wall. FFA: Lloyd Wishard	25	Sport 30m, 13
7	(Unknown 4) About 20m R of KC under big ceiling.		Sport
8	(Unknown 4 - extension) Blasts out the ceiling. Looks great!		Sport

1.2. Main Wall 34 routes in Cliff

Summary:: Lat / Long: -33.751762, 150.262817

	Route	Grade	Style	Selected ascents
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Access Rope
2	Don't Kiss Me, Sweetie This route is at the base of the access rope. FFA: Karen Allen	21	Sport 9m, 5
3	★ Slobber Monster A direct start to DKMS that starts from the ground. FFA: Steve Grkovic	22	Sport 13m, 8
Main Wall Proper
5	★★ Piano Tossers Anomynous Tricky off the deck to a good rest then interesting and sustained upper wall. Quite a unique route for this area. FFA: Megan Turnbull	25	Sport 20m, 10
6	★★★ Meet The Feebles FFA: Megan Turnbull	27	Sport 18m, 9
7	★ The Anti-Brain This is an ok warmup if you pull through the undergraded crux. FFA: Chris Coghill	23	Sport 20m, 10
8	★★ Malevolent Mallard Easy to the roof then gripping moves on good rock. FFA: lloyd wishart	24	Sport 20m, 8
9	★★ Quaffing Quokkas FFA: lloyd wishart	27	Sport 20m, 9
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	Route	Grade	Style	Selected ascents
10	★★★ Brain Drain How you feel after inputting the data into the online guide. The main and best warm up at the crag. Some of the best rock at main wall, guaranteed to raise a solid pump. It's supposed to start up the blunt arête but most people stay a bit left on the juggy flake of Desafinado. FFA: Megan Turnbull	24	Sport 20m, 11
11	★★ Desafinado The obvious corner in the middle of the main wall. FFA: Chris Coghill	25	Sport 20m, 8
12	★★ Rabbit with Fangs Thin and sustained crimping!! Make sure you marvel at the DIY stone work at half height FFA: Megan Turnbull	26	Sport 26m, 15
13	★ Chocolate Trouble Cake Hard start then a couple of tricky moves split by good jugs. FFA: Andrew Duckworth	24	Sport 28m, 14
14	★ Trouble Cake Direct Hard thin moves from the ground to a hard move to gain the pocket before joining the original route. A better way to start Chocolate Trouble Cake. FFA: Andrew Duckworth	25	Sport 27m, 4
15	★★★ Rabbit With Fangs Super Direct (linkup) Half of Chocolate trouble cake direct, Step left into the trouble cake crux then on to the rabbit with fangs slab. FFA: Megan Turnbull	26	Sport 26m, 17
16	★★ Captain Cake (linkup) Through the bouldery start of Captain Kurko to the 5th bolt, then head Up and slightly left to join the upper half of Chocolate Trouble Cake.	25	Sport 22m
17	★★ Captain Kurko Classic 25 pumper, crank the steep start then keep pumping up the wall of jugs. FFA: Megan Turnbull	25	Sport 22m, 12
18	★★ Hello Rabbit Risotto Great link-up of the 25 and the 27. FFA: Megan Turnbull	26	Sport 22m, 11
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	Route	Grade	Style	Selected ascents
19	★★ Goodbye Possum Pie If you can stick the first 3 bolts then you have done the hard stuff just keep pumping and pulling to the top. FFA: Megan Turnbull	27	Sport 22m, 9
20	★★ Strong Movements You can get a good idea of the crux from the ground, hard moves past the first 4 draws then the great orange wall above. A hold has snapped at 3rd last bolt but there's still a good sequence. FFA: Steve Grkovic	28	Sport 22m, 10
21	Duck Amuck Up the corner with difficulty. FFA: Steve Grkovic	30	Sport 27m, 11
22	★★★ Bad Dog, Bad Dog, No Biscuit Up the boulder seam through a mini roof then classic and sustained steep wall climbing to a tricky finale. FFA: Steve Grkovic	28	Sport 22m, 9
23	★★ Bambi Burger Good value route with 3 Boulder problems of different styles with easier climbing around them. Hardest route on the wall. FFA: Steve Grkovic	31	Sport 22m, 9
24	★★ Snout Counter FFA: Steve Grkovic	30	Sport 23m, 10
25	★★ Snout Hog (linkup) Link-up of the first half of Snout Counter and the top half of God's Gift to Wart Hogs at a moderate grade. Long pumper on mostly big holds with 3 little boulder problems. FFA: Steve Grkovic	28	Sport 24m, 9
26	★★★ Wart Counter (linkup) Don’t let the average route name put you off, this route is mega. Varied and pumpy start up God's Gift to Wart Hogs to the double 7th bolts, clip the left ring and one more before the big dynamic crux and continued hard moves to a final punch. FFA: Steve Grkovic	30	Sport 25m, 10
27	★★★ God's Gift to Wart Hogs Great consumer climbing with plenty of good jugs and some thin, long pulls. The bolting is a bit spicy but safe. FFA: Steve Grkovic	28	Sport 24m, 9
28	★ Brontosnorarse Starts up gods gift then breaks right at the third. Steady climbing with plenty of good holds to a frustrating hard crux and more simple climbing above. The dreaded last move redpoint is above which is common with all the finishes in this part of the wall. FFA: Steve Grkovic	30	Sport 24m, 10
29	★★ Usually Muesli The long one, starts off the big rock Cain. FFA: Steve Grkovic	26	Sport 32m, 15
30	★★ Bumbalong Road A great resistance route with nothing too hard, the most popular 28 at Farside. A dynamic start gets you established on route, where the slow burn continues right up until the anchors. FFA: Steve Grkovic	28	Sport 25m, 14
31	★★★ The Gezza from Brezza Another long pumper with a dynamic pouce at the crux. Climbs really well and is much steeper then it looks. FFA: Steve Grkovic	29	Sport 25m, 11
32	★★★ Dark Energy Another of the classic steep 25's at farside. FFA: Chris Coghill	25	Sport 22m, 13
33	★★★ Steve's new roof. / Last line. Starts as for dark energy but head steeply up to the rest ledge. Swing out the roof and out right to the thin headwall. FFA: steve G	27	Sport
34	★★ Wonky Weevil FFA: Lloyd Wishhard	25	Sport 25m, 11
35	★★ Lions in the Night An old Coghill project sent by Lee. This takes a direct line up the impressive grey wall at the far end of main wall. More bolts then you need so pick the ones that suit. Set: Chris Coghill FFA: Lee Cossey	27	Sport 28m, 13
36	Snail Bait FFA: Steve Grkovic	30	Sport 23m, 10

1.3. Outskirts 6 routes in Cliff

Summary:: Lat / Long: -33.752497, 150.263568

	Route	Grade	Style	Selected ascents
1	Abandoned Project An old abandon project by Dr Chris, recently fully bolted and freed by Steve. Hard boulder down low to a sustained head wall.	29	Sport
2	Crot De Nez Hard start on "jugs" then great long wall above, reportedly very good. FFA: Steve Grkovic	29	Sport 23m, 12
3	Steve new Mega Rig. Start as for Crot De Nez then traverse right. Swing right across the amphitheater and up to finish close to the Deflatable Daisy anchors. Active project by Steve.		SportProject
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	Route	Grade	Style	Selected ascents
4	★★★ Deflatable Daisy Slabby ramp then up beautiful orange wall with a hard traverse left to first set of lower-offs at large flake. FFA: Steve Grkovic	26	Sport 18m, 10
5	★★ Deflatable Daisy Extension Only really 3 bolts above the first half but adds a fair amount of pump. Continue up and left from the first set of anchors. Mega. FA: Steve Grkovic	28	Sport 33m
6	★★ Pumpkin Patrol Last route of the crag. Hard boulder problem start and then long interesting wall on mostly great rock. Watch your rope length. FFA: Steve Grkovic	26	Sport 35m, 17

2. Index by grade

Grade	Stars	Name	Style	Area
21		Don't Kiss Me, Sweetie	Sport 9m, 5	1.2. Main Wall
22	★	Slobber Monster	Sport 13m, 8	1.2. Main Wall
23	★	The Anti-Brain	Sport 20m, 10	1.2. Main Wall
24	★★★	Brain Drain	Sport 20m, 11	1.2. Main Wall
	★	Chocolate Trouble Cake	Sport 28m, 14	1.2. Main Wall
	★★	Malevolent Mallard	Sport 20m, 8	1.2. Main Wall
25	★	Kiwi Crumpet	Sport 30m, 13	1.1. Critter Crag
	★★	Captain Cake (linkup)	Sport 22m	1.2. Main Wall
	★★	Captain Kurko	Sport 22m, 12	1.2. Main Wall
	★★★	Dark Energy	Sport 22m, 13	1.2. Main Wall
	★★	Desafinado	Sport 20m, 8	1.2. Main Wall
	★★	Piano Tossers Anomynous	Sport 20m, 10	1.2. Main Wall
	★	Trouble Cake Direct	Sport 27m, 4	1.2. Main Wall
	★★	Wonky Weevil	Sport 25m, 11	1.2. Main Wall
26	★★	Seething Beetles	Sport 45m, 22	1.1. Critter Crag
	★★	Hello Rabbit Risotto	Sport 22m, 11	1.2. Main Wall
	★★★	Rabbit With Fangs Super Direct (linkup)	Sport 26m, 17	1.2. Main Wall
	★★	Rabbit with Fangs	Sport 26m, 15	1.2. Main Wall
	★★	Usually Muesli	Sport 32m, 15	1.2. Main Wall
	★★★	Deflatable Daisy	Sport 18m, 10	1.3. Outskirts
	★★	Pumpkin Patrol	Sport 35m, 17	1.3. Outskirts
27	★★	Enormous Pleasure	Sport 25m, 12	1.1. Critter Crag
	★★	Goodbye Possum Pie	Sport 22m, 9	1.2. Main Wall
	★★	Lions in the Night	Sport 28m, 13	1.2. Main Wall
	★★★	Meet The Feebles	Sport 18m, 9	1.2. Main Wall
	★★	Quaffing Quokkas	Sport 20m, 9	1.2. Main Wall
	★★★	Steve's new roof.	Sport	1.2. Main Wall
28	★★★	Bad Dog, Bad Dog, No Biscuit	Sport 22m, 9	1.2. Main Wall
	★★	Bumbalong Road	Sport 25m, 14	1.2. Main Wall
	★★★	God's Gift to Wart Hogs	Sport 24m, 9	1.2. Main Wall
	★★	Snout Hog (linkup)	Sport 24m, 9	1.2. Main Wall
	★★	Strong Movements	Sport 22m, 10	1.2. Main Wall
	★★	Deflatable Daisy Extension	Sport 33m	1.3. Outskirts
29	★★★	The Gezza from Brezza	Sport 25m, 11	1.2. Main Wall
		Abandoned Project	Sport	1.3. Outskirts
		Crot De Nez	Sport 23m, 12	1.3. Outskirts
30	★	Brontosnorarse	Sport 24m, 10	1.2. Main Wall
		Duck Amuck	Sport 27m, 11	1.2. Main Wall
		Snail Bait	Sport 23m, 10	1.2. Main Wall
	★★	Snout Counter	Sport 23m, 10	1.2. Main Wall
	★★★	Wart Counter (linkup)	Sport 25m, 10	1.2. Main Wall
31	★★	Bambi Burger	Sport 22m, 9	1.2. Main Wall
?		(Unknown 1)	Sport	1.1. Critter Crag
		(Unknown 2)	Sport	1.1. Critter Crag
		(Unknown 3)	Sport	1.1. Critter Crag
		(Unknown 4 - extension)	Sport	1.1. Critter Crag
		(Unknown 4)	Sport	1.1. Critter Crag
		Steve new Mega Rig.	SportProject	1.3. Outskirts