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The Surgery

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Description

A great long bouldering cave tucked down behind some houses in blaxland.

Avoid like herpes after rain or on humid days.

All the problems have been renamed in a "Surgery" theme as the original names have been lost to antiquity. Names and grades are welcome for the unnamed problems, I just haven't done them.

Access issues inherited from Lower Blue Mountains

Be sensible.

Approach

At Blaxland, turn off the Great Western Highway onto Coughlan Rd. Follow Coughlan Rd past the High School and over the railway bridge, and take the first right onto Honeyeater Cres. Where the road turns left, keep going straight ahead down what looks like a driveway. Follow to the bottom of the hill and around to the left. Park at the end of the straight just before the road starts heading back up the hill.

Descent notes

From the carpark across the road from the new house, find and follow the faint trail (basically opposite the house front deck) heading straight down through the bush, its about a 60 sec walk down (trail will intersect another trail heading left, but continue down toward the creek.) Do NOT cross the creek. Turn left following the emerging cliffline around, continuing until the cliff opens up to reveal The Surgery. About 2 min walk in all up.

Ethic inherited from Blue Mountains

Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs. If you do the bolts may be removed.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

If you have benefited from climbing infrastructure in NSW, please consider making a donation towards maintenance costs. The Sydney Rockclimbing Club Rebolting Fund finances the replacement of old bolts on existing climbs and the maintenance of other hardware such as fixed ropes and anchors. The SRC purchases hardware, such as bolts and glue, and distributes them to volunteer rebolters across the state of New South Wales. For more information, including donation details, visit https://sydneyrockies.org.au/rebolting/

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it.

However, the fast growing scrub can conceal walking tracks in mere months, making remote and less popular crags slightly more difficult and fun to navigate to. Some appropriately discreet pruning is a far better alternative then track braiding (which causes far more damage).

However, do so only on Council land and definitely not in the National Park. Remember, to maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Do not cut flora and keep any tracks and infrastructure as minimal as possible or risk possible closures.

History

History timeline chart

This spot was developed by Various local climbers back in the mid/late nineties. This I believe include Ed Thornhill Ben Pearce, Dave Browning, Saxon Johns and garth miller. With the help of a few other friends. From memory this area was said to of had a double digit traverse under the cave fa'd by Garth Miller. Dave Browning also did a dyno problem on the suspended rock that's just before the entrance thought to be v8 or 9. And I think either Ed or Ben did the prosthesis problem. stay tuned

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Routes

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Dave did the fa in about 1996. Start with both hands on the rail then big move up to the sloping lip. Speculated at the time to be v9 but who knows??

FA: Dave Browning

Start from the big jug. Out and up. Committing.

Long undercling traverse.

FA: Ben "JengA" Lane, 24 Sep 2014

Start matched on the undercling. Big moves and Big fun

Start at the back of the cave.

Chipped and not that nice but the hardest problem here.

Same Start as Go Go Gadget but follows the left edge of the cave to finish on the black jugs.

Same start as The nurse but then pushes left into the undercling match, a couple ok holds then the high finish as for Go Go Gadget.

Start in the rad underslot, big moves to a high finish

Long and funky, if a tad contrived. Start as for Go Go Gadget, but crank out right through some fun slopers, staying just below the finish hold of The Nurse. Keep traversing right along the break, before eventually finishing up Rocky Davis.

FA: Russ Best, 31 Oct 2016

Double side-pull start then up via crimps and slopes to the rail jug. A great problem and tricky until you figure out the beta.

Not any harder just higher and more committing. Finish on the sweet jug in the water runnel.

FFA: Ben Jenga, 9 Aug 2017

Start as for the doctor, instead of doing the big move on the nurse, continue low for a couple more compression moves until you're at the slopey jug of Go Go Gadget then finish up Oxycel

Same start as Necrosis then hard move into The Nurse to finish at the jug rail.

Direct movement. Sit start as for Doctor. Gain ledge, then crimp, 2 finger pocket, move to slopey rail directly above, then up left to diagonal positive rail. Match high big hole for top.

FA: Jared Tyerman, 4 Aug 2020

Start at double undercling then up via nice crimps to jug, direct start V1

Start on jug right of the flake then undercling/side pull the the flake to finish on orange horn.

Start match on the undercling up via slopes and crimps to the camps ledge then big moves to high jug pocket.

Simple campus from left to right

Start on the X jug rail above the ferns, traverse the roof until the campus ledge then finsh up P13

Sweet high sloper traverse, good but spaced holds the whole way. Start on a L finger jug and right crimp, up and work your way out left along the roof rib. Can you campus is off for your feet. Finish matched on the high pocket. Easier to campus most of the moves.

FFA: Ben Jenga, 13 Dec 2015

Awesome new 20 move problem with a dynamic crux at the start and solid rock nearly the whole way. Starts on the big pocket of Say Ahhhhhhh, a couple of easy start moves set you up for a big move out left from a bad off angle right before joining Hopes In Slopes..

FFA: Ben Jenga, 13 Dec 2015

A fun campus problem, start with a small pocket and crimp, move right to finger jug, left hand to small crimp above then swing right to a good incut high edge, match.

Start on the big jug up to another jug pocket with glue on it then big moves up and right via crimps. Keep trucking right past another jug pocket to finish as teflon.

Crag classic. Start in the back of the cave, big moves on big holds. Finish on the high big sloper.

Jug the Teflon start then long reach and hard match to move into Mosquito clamps start jug and continue. Only hard for 3 moves really but rad the whole way.

Jared Tyerman

FFA: Ben Jenga, 9 Aug 2017

Starting on say ahh and then traverse into mosquito clamps and out via the ledge.

Sit start to mosquito clamps. Going up via the edges and pocket and out through MC.

Start in the good flake jug and traverse right until you can step off. Can be wet for very long periods of time.

Straight up the face of the highball boulder. Use of either arête is "out".

HIGH.. This problem is 6m+ Has top rope anchors.

Scary ground up high ball, left hand on the arete. Has top rope anchors.

FFA: Ben Jenga, 16 Aug 2012

Got better holds then the right hand side. Has top rope anchors.

Straight up the middle of the face to top-out mantle. USE OF EITHER ARETE IS "OUT"..

Thin and balancy with all the hardest moves in the top half.

FA: Paul Thomson, 30 Sep 2014

Harder of the two sides. Has top rope anchors.

Left Arete

The ants are gone...

Once renowned as a "speed ascent problem" (as the crucial hold contained a nest of angry ants that swarmed once the hold was used), it's now a conventional and safe boulder problem.

Stand start, up via the one and only hold to top-out.

FA: Paul Thomson, 24 Jun 2012

Long block traverse from right to left. Start in small pockets on the top edge and traverse to the far left edge of the block

FFA: Ben JengA, 19 Jun 2012

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