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Glenbrook Bluffs

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Summary

Short sport climbs and bouldering with super quick access and all day shade.

Description

This was the end of the line for the old tramway before the Glenbrook tunnel was built. It faces SE so is shady most of the day and has nice views across Glenbrook Gorge. There is potential for further development.

Access issues inherited from Lower Blue Mountains

Be sensible.

Approach

Park at the end of Emu Road Glenbrook, walk down past the picnic shelter and either turn right and follow the path for 70m before following foot pads to the base of the crag or descend the foot pad directly below the shelter to access the other end of the crag.

Ethic inherited from Blue Mountains

Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs. If you do the bolts may be removed.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

If you have benefited from climbing infrastructure in NSW, please consider making a donation towards maintenance costs. The Sydney Rockclimbing Club Rebolting Fund finances the replacement of old bolts on existing climbs and the maintenance of other hardware such as fixed ropes and anchors. The SRC purchases hardware, such as bolts and glue, and distributes them to volunteer rebolters across the state of New South Wales. For more information, including donation details, visit https://sydneyrockies.org.au/rebolting/

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it.

Remember, to maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Do not cut flora and keep any tracks and infrastructure as minimal as possible or risk possible closures.

For the latest access related information, or to report something of concern, visit the Australian Climbing Association NSW Blue Mountains page at https://acansw.org.au/blue-mountains/

Tags

Routes

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Grade Route

Short slab with trick move at overlap. 3 fixed hangers and double ring bolt lower offs.

FA: Freja Moran, 1 Oct 2018

FFA: Emma Newall & Cam O'Leary, 20 Oct 2018

Start as for FS then step right and follow U bolts over arete and keep traversing all the way out to until you are above the middle of the roof. Best if the 2nd follows to clean.

FA: Cam O'Leary & Emma Newall, Oct 2018

Start in the cave and follow the crack and face out to the nose. Once on the slab step across onto the arete and continue straight up to the anchors.

FA: Nic Plim & Cam O'Leary, Nov 2018

Hard moves right of first bolt, clipping jug for second bolt at left of fingery traverse, then ok slopers over top. Best to pull up and clean/know whats going on up top. As for first half, its nails. Best to belay from track beneath belay bracket.

FFA: Eww

Want to look like Ray in that iconic shot? Or Warwick on "Wokker's Roof", which if you look across the valley you can probably see? Or Doug on Fight Cub, just 7 grades easier and 50m from your car? Look no further than up, and back. Then get every 4 and 5 cam you own or can borrow, tie in, and take the trip of a lifetime across 20 plus feet of the finest horizontal offwidth sandstone roof crack you can imagine. (FFA-BD# 4.5 , 5, 5, 5, 5, 4 untie and walk off) second ascent one less #5.

Reality is separate, dreams are real. FFA E. Wells, J. Szeleky 2021.

FFA: Eww & Jess Szeleky

Short and bouldery. Just to the left of the tree.

FA: Cam O'Leary, Oct 2018

Up the arete.Boulder start to easy ground. Take care.

FA: Nic Plim & Cam O’Leary, 16 Apr 2019

Chimney and wide crack in centre of crag

FA: Seong Hyman, vanessa gysbers, stuart sims & Joon Hyman, 31 Mar 2019

Up the slab like a rat up a drain pipe

FA: Cam O’Leary & Nic Plim, 16 Apr 2019

The short powerful route on RHS of the amazing cave. Up through the smiley face feature. Best to stick clip the 2nd bolt and climb the side of the feature.

FFA: Sean Moran, 12 May 2019

Warning Rock: Unstable rock

Crack/flake through to double ring bolt lower off (out of sight from ground)

FA: Nic Plim & Cam O’Leary, 16 Apr 2019

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Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): Simon Carter

Date: 2019

ISBN: 9780958079082

The latest comprehensive, latest and greatest Blue Mountains Climbing Guide is here and it has more routes than you can poke a clip stick at! 3421 to be exact. You are not going to get bored.

Author(s): Simon Carter

Date: 2019

ISBN: 9780958079075

Simon Carter's "Best of the Blue" is the latest selected climbing guide book for the Blue Mountains and covers 1000 routes and 19 different climbing areas. For all the sport climbers out there, the travellers, or just anyone who doesn't want to lug around the big guide that's more than 3 times the size - cut out the riff-raff and get to the good stuff! This will pretty much cover everything you need!

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