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Rod's Ravine Guide

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Contributors

Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

MitchWarren Samuel Wojjy ayin Tim Clarkson Campbell Gome warwick payten

The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Table of contents

1. Rod's Ravine 12 routes in Crag

Summary:
J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D

Seasonality

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: -33.559925, 150.223178

description

Less than 1 minute walk across the gully R of Adults Only. A couple of trad lines, a couple of easy sport lines and some foolishness.

access issues

* Temporary Access Change * Following the 2013 bushfires, the Collit's Crevasse and Lawson's Gully areas are no longer accessible from the main stairway entrance to Bardens (i.e., you can't turn right at the bottom of the stairs). Please respect the re-vegetation effort. Access to these areas is possible via Wentworth's Gully in Mt. York.

© inherited from Bardens Lookout

ethic

Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs. If you do the bolts may be removed.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

At many Blue Mountains crags, the somewhat close spacing of routes and prolific horizontal featuring means that it is easy to envisage literally hundreds of trivial linkups. By all means climb these to your hearts content but, unless it is an exceptional case due to some significant objective merit, please generally refrain from writing up linkups. A proliferation of descriptions of trivial linkups would only clutter up the guide and add confusion and will generally not add value to your fellow climbers. (If you still can't resist, consider adding a brief note to the parent route description, rather than cluttering up the guide with a whole new route entry).

If you have benefited from climbing infrastructure in NSW, please consider making a donation towards maintenance costs. The Sydney Rockclimbing Club Rebolting Fund finances the replacement of old bolts on existing climbs and the maintenance of other hardware such as fixed ropes and anchors. The SRC purchases hardware, such as bolts and glue, and distributes them to volunteer rebolters across the state of New South Wales. For more information, including donation details, visit https://sydneyrockies.org.au/rebolting/

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds and minimisation/removal of tick marks becomes part of your climbing routine. Consider bringing a water squirt bottle and mop-up rag to better remove chalk. Only use soft (hair/nylon) bristled brushes, never steel brushes.

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it.

Remember, to maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Do not cut flora and keep any tracks and infrastructure as minimal as possible or risk possible closures.

For the latest access related information, or to report something of concern, visit the Australian Climbing Association NSW Blue Mountains page at https://acansw.org.au/blue-mountains/

inherited from Blue Mountains
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 The Friendly Jackal

Start 33m right of the Ravine at base of the roof crack. Resembles a waterfall in wet seasons. Short wall to corner above then head slight left to lower offs. Use long slings to minimize rope drag.

FA: J.Lamb, J.Smoothy & R.Young, 1980

16 Trad 20m
2 Storm Child

Start as for The Friendly Jackal. Through roof to ledge and out to arete. Second bolt is hidden on a flat ledge up to the right of the first bolt.

FA: K.Shultz, 1992

22 Sport 18m
3 I Aint Never Kissed a Car Before

Set: GBradbury/JJackson (rebolt2013)

FA: M Warren, 2012

23 Sport 10m
4 Unknown 25 Sport Route

The 3rd bolted line R of The Friendly Jackal. Has "25" scratched into a piece of shale in the first few metres of the climb.

25 Sport 25m
5 Red Sails Direct

Up and through horizontal roof 5m L of Red Sails, then up short thin face on red rock to chain lower off. Optional continuation up the original Red Sails to the top of the cliff.

FA: J.Smoothy, 1996

22 Sport 12m
6 Red Sails

20m right of TFJ. Up through shale to nice wall above.

FA: A.Prehn & R.Young, 1984

21 Sport 22m
7 Two Nil

Shares start through shale with the previous and the following route. Left line of rings. Step right at weird runout to anchor.

FA: M.Pircher, 2009

20 Sport 25m
8 Back to the Kraut House

As for Red Sails or start one ring to the right, then R and up.

FA: M.Pircher, 2009

21 Sport 25m
9 Eagles Nest

Around blunt arete 1m R of previous route. Choss to grey wall. Stickclip then nice and juggy.

Set: Martin Pircher

FA: 2013

FA: Martin Pircher, 2013

18 Sport 20m
10 Project - Mitch

A bit ...a lot of 'Madness' through a roof. Apparently the finger lock won't be necessary!

Set: Mitch Warren

FA: Open, 2000

SportProject
11 Karma

22m R of Red Sails.

FA: M.Pircher, 2009

21 Sport 20m
12 Mind Over Matter

Start 38m right of RS. Roof cracks to right hand corner, ledge, left to wall and up right to cave. Up.

FA: J.Friend & B.Eswald, 1976

20 Trad 40m

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Pop
16 The Friendly Jackal Trad 20m
18 Eagles Nest Sport 20m
20 Mind Over Matter Trad 40m
Two Nil Sport 25m
21 Back to the Kraut House Sport 25m
Karma Sport 20m
Red Sails Sport 22m
22 Red Sails Direct Sport 12m
Storm Child Sport 18m
23 I Aint Never Kissed a Car Before Sport 10m
25 Unknown 25 Sport Route Sport 25m
? Project - Mitch SportProject
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