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Middle Cliffs

Access: Parking meters have been installed

Blue Mountains City Council has installed parking meters at Sublime Point in December 2023. If you are not a resident of the Blue Mtns LGA the costs are $12/hour or $38/day if you download the Paystay app and purchase a daypass. You cannot purchase a day pass from the meter - you must use the app (which takes several minutes to configure once downloaded). Time limits are 12 hours. We understand these rates are very steep and you may wish to park further down the road for free. Try and avoid parking on grass lawns and be careful not to cause traffic issues by blocking this narrow road with larger vans. ACANSW has been in discussions with Blue Mtns City Council about the possibility of cheaper parking rates. This will not be resolved until early 2024 at earliest.

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Created 6 months ago - Edited 5 months ago

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Description

This long section of continuous cliffline hosts the majority of the popular routes at Sublime Point. It is a steep and exciting descent but once you are at the cliff it's a nice flat area with easy access to a plethora of great climbs. Most of these climbs face west-south-west, so get sun around 3pm.

© (Stu)

Access issues inherited from West Face (Main Area)

There is NO pubic toilet at the carpark, and the surrounding bush is already suffering from overuse as a bush toilet and tourist rubbish dump (the nearby residents don’t like people literally crapping in their backyards). The nearest public toilet is on the Leura Mall. There are private houses directly above this cliffline - try not to be too noisy, especially in the carpark.

Approach

This area is 12km closer to Sydney than the more popular Blueys crags around Blackheath! From the town of 'Leura' follow signs towards Fairmont Resort until you hit 'Sublime Point' Rd. Follow this south for a few kilometers to end of road and carpark. Walk down tourist track for 100m or so until you reach the bridge. Just before the bridge drop down and left to enter gully and surf down the pine needles to base of small cliff (Lookout Micro Area). Walk right under this cliff for 20m then turn left down track past gnarled banksia tree. Down ridge a bit, scramble down sketchy corner on right and keep following exposed track to magic hole (squirm down it!). Keep going steeply down past some fixed ropes - at the bottom of these on the left is The 'Cool Wall'. For the 'Main Area' continue down easier but steep ridge, to cut back right (north) along the base of the cliffline. (There is still another lower cliffline below you). To get to 'Sweet Dreams', walk north along the base of this cliff following a well trodden track for several hundred metres, passing several walls. You will reach the "cable of death" traverse - yes, you need to go across here and 'Sweet Dreams' is just a few more metres along.

Rather than walking down, it is possible to rap in from above 'Ben Trovato' Wall or 'Sweet Dreams' Wall, but it's hard to find where to scramble down from above and you either need to fix a 100m rope or make multiple 50m abseils on double ropes. This is probably too scary, exposed and committing for most 'Sweet Dreams' aspirants.

To exit any of the multi-pitch routes walk up hill until you hit small tourist path. Turn right then follow the track back to carpark (5 minutes).

© (Stu)

Ethic inherited from West Face (Main Area)

Sublime Point is an old climbing area, with many routes dating from the 1950s and 1960s. Aid and mixed climbing was the fashion then, and the easier routes can be pretty bold for a modern climber. In the last 10 years there have been a lot of well protected sport routes added. This has been seen as controversial by some climbers who consider the crag a 'mixed' climbing venue.

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Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

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Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): Simon Carter

Date: 2019

ISBN: 9780958079082

The latest comprehensive, latest and greatest Blue Mountains Climbing Guide is here and it has more routes than you can poke a clip stick at! 3421 to be exact. You are not going to get bored.

Author(s): Simon Carter

Date: 2019

ISBN: 9780958079075

Simon Carter's "Best of the Blue" is the latest selected climbing guide book for the Blue Mountains and covers 1000 routes and 19 different climbing areas. For all the sport climbers out there, the travellers, or just anyone who doesn't want to lug around the big guide that's more than 3 times the size - cut out the riff-raff and get to the good stuff! This will pretty much cover everything you need!

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Mon 12 Jun
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