This area is the main introduction to climbing at Sublime Point for many beginners - due to the classic easy route Sweet Dreams. On a nice day there can be several parties on the route at once, so if crowds aren't your thing get on the route early! The sun hits this wall around midday - and can be scorching. Bring enough water and sunscreen!

Access issues inherited from West Face (Main Area)

There is NO pubic toilet at the carpark, and the surrounding bush is already suffering from overuse as a bush toilet and tourist rubbish dump (the nearby residents don’t like people literally crapping in their backyards). The nearest public toilet is on the Leura Mall. There are private houses directly above this cliffline - try not to be too noisy, especially in the carpark.


After descending the ridge (info one level up) continue along the base of the cliff past the Binary Cave and Bentrovarto Wall to reach a fixed 'via ferrata' cable leading a across an exposed rock traverse. Clip in to the cable with a long sling and hand traverse across to safety. Don't solo it! The drop is epic and the rock quality is terrible. On the other side of the cable walk down and across another 20m to find Saccharine Nightmare and Sweet Dreams.

Ethic inherited from West Face (Main Area)

Sublime Point is an old climbing area, with many routes dating from the 1950s and 1960s. Aid and mixed climbing was the fashion then, and the easier routes can be pretty bold for a modern climber. In the last 10 years there have been a lot of well protected sport routes added. This has been seen as controversial by some climbers who consider the crag a 'mixed' climbing venue.


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A lot of jiggery pockery for one pitch! This section of rock can been seen while spending a lot of time belaying beginners up 'Sweet Dreams'. It was put up for reasons of scratching an itch rather then getting from the bottom to the top. Using double ropes rap in from 2 ring bolts at the top of the of the Sweet Dream 17 'Variant Finish' to the end of the traverse pitch belay anchor. Rap down again over to the right to a 3 U bolt semi hanging belay.

Climb right into the corner aiming for some fixed hangers (placed for some other climb going up the corner) As you climb in the corner you need to unclip some draws behind you so as to reduce rope drag. From the fixed hangers follow U bolts out around the corner out the exposed orange face across to the right hand side out the head wall up to the ledge where there is a double U bolt belay. It doesn't go anywhere from here as the rock looks dubious. Back jump to clean or bring up seconder then rap off left to Sweet Dream's terror traverse. Then climb up 'Sweet Dreams'.

1 22 27m
2 21 30m
3 17 35m
4 15 10m

A multi-pitch sport route direct up the Sweet Dreams wall. All rings. Third pitch can also be done as a better finish to Sweet Dreams. Starts 20m left from the cable traverse below big orange wall.

  1. 27m (22) 10 bolts - Long and sustained pitch. Start up easy shale ledges for a few metres to reach undercut corner. Up a few metres then onto left wall - a few tough moves then traverse right to delicate final moves to hanging belay at shale break. Long runners useful to avoid rope drag.

  2. 30m (21) 8 bolts - Left from belay up steep juggy wall which gets a little thin about 15m up. Swing left onto juggy arete and up runout but super easy black jugs to double rings at end of Pitch 3 of 'Sweet Dreams'.

  3. 35m (17) 12 bolts - Out left from belay and up black slab for 8m then straight up the orange wall above on a million juggy horizontals. A great pitch.

  4. 10m (15) 3 bolts - Dawdle up easy jugs to fun little overhung finish. Belay on ledge - scramble up vegetated hillside for 10m and walk 5m right to Sweet Dreams exit track.

FFA: Neil Monteith, Jason Lammers & Adam Demmert, 12 Feb 2012

Start as for Saccharine Nightmare. Can be strung together as an epic single pitch with loads of rope drag.

  1. 30m, 21, 12 bolts Traverse left about 4m from first bolt, then fun climbing following U bolts up and left to join vague arete at approx 20m. Continue up arete (bolts on right side) to DBB.

  2. 30m, 17, 8 bolts . Clip first bolt from belay, then follow arete to rejoin Saccharine Nightmare toward end of 2nd pitch.

Continue to top on Saccharine Nightmare, or rap off (two ropes required). Be careful of falling into trees down low, particularly for seconds.

FA: Dave Hughes & Al Bradley, 22 Feb 2018

A direct start and variant finish to Sweet Dreams.

1 14 20m
2 10 20m
3 13 28m
4 13 25m
5 14 15m
6 10 10m

One of the most popular multi pitch routes in the Blue Mountains offering up a simmering dish of big exposure, good protection and easy moves. On nice sunny weekends there can be a queue so get in early! Sleepyheads starting at the crack of noon (which is bizarrely common) will also miss out on the cool morning shade and get smashed by the sun which blasts the route from midday onwards. Although there are many bolts on this route - a trad rack is required for pitches 2, 5 and the last pitch (single set of finger to fist sized cams + a couple of large wires will suffice). Most of the bolts were placed after the first ascent.

Start: After crossing the fixed wire walk another 40m or so to base of short scrappy looking right facing corner on right side of giant block. Up above is the vast black slab of the higher pitches.

  1. 20m (14) Short wall past bolt onto ledge then left to chimney (bolt), up to ledge and DRB belay.

  2. 20m (10) Trad protected crack to DRB belay in little alcove. Save a large cam for the last few metres of this pitch.

  3. 28m (13) Traverse up and right across slab past 6 bolts and couple of cam slots to DRB.

  4. 25m (13) Up via very easy climbing and no protection to second set of DRB after about 8m (ignore these). Continue up wall (3 bolts & optional cam), then step right to crack above bowel clenching exposure. Belay on big ledge below corner at DRB. If it gets crowded there are two sets of anchors here.

  5. 15m (14) Up easy trad protected corner for 20m and exit either left up exposed wall into the 'Variant Finish' (nicer but harder) or right (easy) to big ledge.

  6. 10m (10) If you took the rarely climbed right variant climb chossy overhang above.

FA: T. Batty & B.Allen

1 13 20m
2 12 30m
3 12 30m
4 17 35m
5 14 10m

A link-up of Sweet Dreams into Saccharine Nightmare that creates a sport climbers version of Sweet Dreams - giving slightly harder climbing and a lot more bolts. You will still need a couple of cams for Sweet Dreams pitch 2.

  1. 20m (13) Pitch 1 of Sweet Dreams (ring bolts + slings)

  2. 30m (12) Pitch 2 of Sweet Dreams (ring bolts + cams))

  3. 30m (12) Pitch 3 of Sweet Dreams to end of traverse and double RB belay. Continue past the first set of DRB to the second set 8m further. (ring bolts)

  4. 35m (17) Pitch 3 of Saccharine Nightmare (12 ringbolts)

  5. 10m (14) Pitch 4 of Saccharine Nightmare (3 ringbolts)

Go left from last belay of Sweet Dreams passing two carrots and follow the bolts up the blunt arete for the grade 17 finish. The last 15 meters takes a couple of cams if you need them.

  1. 20m

  2. 20m

  3. 28m

  4. 8m

  5. 16m

  6. 25m

1 14 20m
2 10 20m
3 13 28m
4 13 25m
5 17 25m

The line of ring bolts going straight up the face (in between the corner and the blunt arete) from the last belay of Sweet Dreams.

Up to roof at slight left-facing corner, grab jug at lip, clip FH and crank (crux) up 2.5m to next FH. Charge on up with cams in slots to a belay ledge. Great pro, solid holds and fantastic exposure. Lower off rings or up 7m trending left to juggy bulge and tree. Walk off right to top of 'Sweet Dreams'.

Up to corner, reach out and clip FH. Gather your guts and grit your teeth as you pull up and right onto face to next FH (crux). Up on easier ground and nice sharp edges past another FH. Chuck some cams in slots, straight up to DRBB.

Start: Starts 3m left of Dreams are Free.

Make a trad belay in shallow slot under the route. Up to FH below juggy ledges. Clip and crank up and right on jugs to shallow overlay corner. Straight up to ledge and traverse right to rap rings. Rope drag is a problem.

Start: Starts 3m left of 'Jude Food'.

1 14 50m
2 14 20m
3 15 20m
4 15 15m
5 16 25m

A good summer adventure as it stays shady until early afternoon, but there is (was) clearly nothing wrong with a winter ascent! The first ascent was made in 13th July. Gear: 1 set Cams #0.3 – 4, wires, 4 brackets, 8-10 quick draws, 4 slings.

  1. 50m (14) As for pitches 1 and 2 of 'Sweet Dreams' with 1 BR at the start and 1 BR just before the double rings in corner. Caution: Massive rope drag!

  2. 20m (14) Ignore bolts out right on Sweet Dreams and climb the corner direct (past an old rusty bolt 8m up) then continue on easy grey wall right of corner to large ledge and single rusty BR and small tree. You can belay here (with a bit of jiggery pokery - or link into next pitch).

  3. 20m (15) Up slab above ledge then into vegetated corner (you can stem around the worst bits) to a short chimney (fixed hex with orange sling in the back of corner and an old shitty BR towards the front). Some people belay here but it is much nicer to continue up for another 5m onto large loose rock ledge on the right. Trad belay on medium cams and wires.

  4. 15m (15) Traverse horizontally right with epic exposure and good cams to base of black corner and trad belay. You can join this pitch into the next pitch.

  5. 25m (16) Up the sandy corner and at top exit right onto ledge (poor pro) and scramble up vegetation to tree belay.

FA: D. tanner & C. Regan, 1963

1 18 25m
2 18 26m
3 18 21m
4 21 23m
5 17 25m

Approach - 30m past Sweet Dreams and about 80m after the cable traverse, just left of a steep orange nose. Start as for Whymper. 25 mins walk in from carpark.

  1. 25m (18) First pitch of Whymper. Head diagonally rightwards past U bolts through roof and around arête, up corner to ledge and 2 U belay on right.

  2. 26m (18) Plumb-line up black wall on ring-bolts to DBB.

  3. 21m (18) Up and left under roof on orange rock (clip 60cm runner on third bolt to minimise rope drag). Bridge up into corner of roof and traverse right through lip and onto wall above and DBB.

  4. 23m (21) Trend slightly right past interesting features and small overlap to good holds and stance under roof. Strenuous moves left onto black wall above and up past flake (caution!) to DBB.

  5. 25m (17) Fun juggy climbing through steps, to corner with short pocketed wall on left. Bridge up then step right onto final short wall and up toward tree. A final U-bolt is hidden just below cliff edge, as a directional. Recommend sling belay from tree 5m further up slope, and extend yourself back to edge with the rope (take extreme care with loose rocks!).

Walk off – from tree, up and left a few metres, then scramble right up boulder onto rock platform. Obvious track up and right to main track (<1 min). Turn right to lookout and carpark (<5 mins).

FA: Tom & Hannah Hepner, 2010

1 19 25m
2 18 25m
3 19 25m
4 19 35m
5 16 35m

Classic face climbing above a lot of worrying space. All bolts, take 11 brackets, a sling and prussics for whoever is seconding. All carrots have small heads, so maybe clip the first ones with fat old biners, or add a wire so the brackets don't tinkle off.

Start left of a steep orange nose 30m left of Sweet Dreams, or about 100m after the cable traverse.

  1. 25m (19) Tough move through first rooflet then head right around arête and diagonally up face to ledge and 2 Ubolt belay on right.

  2. 25m (18) Stainless glued carrots from now on. Traverse left and out to arête. Up this to first cave and DBB.

  3. 25m (19) The money pitch. Exposed! Up right easily to second cave then up and out left to overhung arête, up to semi hanging belay on small ledge and 3BB.

  4. 35m (19) Up arête past two BRs to cave and double U bolts. Don't belay here! Instead clip a U with a long sling and step right, up wall and roof, then diagonally R to 2U belay.

  5. 35m (16) Right and up on ironstone plates and various ledges to top and tree belay well back.

FA: J. Anderson, M. Law & V. Peterson, 2009

Start: Scramble up and left 60m from Knights Mare.

  1. 27m (-) Corner to tree.

  2. 33m (16) Corner to bulge. Around this on right wall then corner and chimney.

Old school chunder and massive runouts from hereon ...

Start: On wall, just right of "Achilles Crack".

  1. Wall to ledge and boulder belay.

  2. (crux) Right to overhanging corner then piton belay.

  3. Traverse by crawling left through slot (Can it get any worse!? -Ed). Rusted remains of piton belay.

  4. Up wall to tree.

5-7) Up slightly right to ledge and rotten buttress above to top.

FA: T. Batty & R. Ryan, 1963

"A good climb up a steep direct line." [JME]

Start: 300m left of landslide at crack running right to the top of a broken black wall.

  1. Wall and scrub to tree belay at base of crack.

  2. (crux) Wall to top of chimney, around overhang into crack above and tree belay.

  3. Over overlap up rotten rock to rock belay.

  4. Crack and chimney-gully to tree belay on ledge.

  5. "A small cliffline above provides interest."

FA: P. Draffin, D. Tanner, C. Regan & K. Horn, 1963

"A one pitch climb and that could probably be avoided." [JME]

Start: To left of "Achilles Crack"

  1. 30m (crux) Up to bolt before bulge, left across overhang then left to tree. 2-5) 80m Easy climbing as you will to the top.

FA: B. Allen & T. Batty, 1963

Nice pumping up a long wall. Walk about 5 minutes left of Whymper. After you drop down into a red shale cave, the route starts at a cairn 30m further on. If you reach a wet gully you've gone 40m too far (This may be Garbage Gully).

  1. 35m 19 Either hard start or step off tree then up easing wall. A few loose holds here, take helmets!

  2. 30m 18 Up steep orange wall and right to slab. Walk to belay on wall right of cave. 3 rings so you can space yourselves.

  3. 25m 20 Up thin slab and roof

  4. 15m 17 Up dirty slab, left to ledge and tricky wall. May be best to bring second up to watch you closely on the hard move at the top.

Walk-off: Walk away from the cliff and slightly left (ENE) to a small tree 15m back from the cliff edge with a white tag. Veer right to next tag then up till you cross a walking track. Turn right and 5 minutes walk takes you past the top of Sweet Dreams and back to the carpark.

FA: Eugene Mak, Jeff Crass & Mikl Law

"Garbage Gully is the gully between Apollo to the left and "Knight's Mare" to the right." [JME] (Or it was in 1967 - Ed.)

Start: 3-400 yds left of "Achilles Crack"

  1. "90' Hand traverse for 15' across to stream and scramble up through stream and round to right hand wall and tree belay." [BA] (See, it did get worse!! - Ed.)

  2. 90 ' traverse 30' right to wall then back left to crack.

  3. 90' Continue crack above to gully and block belay.

FA: D. Tanner & B. Ryan, 1963

"One of the longest climbs on the cliff, and undoubtedly the most rotten. Absolutely appalling. A masterpiece of decaying chunder, mank and rubbish." [JME]

Start: At a creek, normally with water flowing. A huge black wall to the left.

  1. Across waterfall to ledge ...

  2. Up a series of rotten yellow walls, into and out of caves. .. Take an ice axe.

5-7) Minor improvements to top

FA: B. Ryan & T. Westren, 1964

"A great climb, one of the best on the cliff. Exposed and sustained wall climbing. Bloody good. Excellent rock." [JME]

Start: The climb takes a line up the great black wall left of the creek where Apollo starts. Scramble up 30m from left to scrubby ledge.

  1. (crux) 25m Straight up near centre of wall below small break in overhangs (Ewbank, Zemek 1964) or original start diagonally up from the right.

  2. Traverse left to bolt belay.

  3. 30m Up slight ramp left then straight up to bolt in cave. "Good view" [JME]

  4. Out of cave via wall on right and up slight overhang to tree belay on ledge.

FA: B. Allen & T. Batty, 1963

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