Iliad Buttress




50m left of Theory of Negativity Wall is a hanging orange arete visible high above the trees. There is a recessed twin corner crack leading up to it. This is Cynics United. Above and left of this arete is the main Iliad Buttress, somewhat hidden from below.

Access issues inherited from West Face (Main Area)

There is NO pubic toilet at the carpark, and the surrounding bush is already suffering from overuse as a bush toilet and tourist rubbish dump (the nearby residents don’t like people literally crapping in their backyards). The nearest public toilet is on the Leura Mall. There are private houses directly above this cliffline - try not to be too noisy, especially in the carpark.

Descent notes

All these routes top-out onto tree belays. Scramble up and right to reach the tourist lookout and track to exit.

Ethic inherited from West Face (Main Area)

Sublime Point is an old climbing area, with many routes dating from the 1950s and 1960s. Aid and mixed climbing was the fashion then, and the easier routes can be pretty bold for a modern climber. In the last 10 years there have been a lot of well protected sport routes added. This has been seen as controversial by some climbers who consider the crag a 'mixed' climbing venue.

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Multi-pitch climbing via a series of overhung orange buttresses divided by good ledges. Starts 50m left of Theory of Negativity at recessed orange corner with large orange hanging arete high above it. Trad only required on the first pitch or if you can't place trad you can climb the optional, but not as good, I Don't Place Wigglies 4m left.

  1. (17m, 16) Trad - Orange recessed corner with twin cracks. Finish up the left hand corner crack to big ledge and bolt belay. Eats finger to hand size cams and big wires.

  2. (25m, 23, 11 bolts) Up left side of orange wall for a few metres - then traverse right to small hanging corner and onto small ledge. Right edge of this find hidden bolt then up overhung arete which turns into frightening large ironstone jugs. Belay on large ledge. You can rap from here to ground with two 50m ropes.

  3. (15m, 22, 7 bolts) Walk 50m left along shale ledge to bolt belay below big orange wall. Undercut start on jugs then up pumpy face on slots. Belay on small ledge.

  4. (15m, 24) Out, right and up the imposing orange wall and prow with a squillion bolts. Belay on small ledge.

  5. (10m, 18) Juggy steep wall past diving board to cruddy black rock topout. Belay on tree well back from edge

FA: Neil Monteith (led all pitches), Jason Lammers & Chris Coghill, 2012

Bolted black wall just left of recessed orange corner. Not great. This is the only way of doing Cynics United if you can't place trad.

FA: Neil Monteith & Chris Coghill, 2012

Rad independent corner with a beautiful roof crux. Starts from the same ledge as the Trojan. Either finish up the Iliad or rap Cynics United with two ropes.

Think twice about what's actually attached on the top out.

FFA: Anton Korsun & Zac Lazatin, 7 Sep 2021

1 12 27m
2 16 27m
3 16 13m
4 15 20m

A great trad multi-pitch with only one short section of gardening down low. The upper pitches are in a fantastic position with great orange rock up a major crackline. Standard rack of finger to fist crack size cams and wires are needed, bring doubles of cams (or a rack of hexes and some gear placing nous) as you will need to use them to setup belays. Starts about 20m left of Cynics United and 40m right of the Binary Cave.

The start is fairly easy to spot. The first few metres are vegetated grasstrees - but then a stonker black juggy handcrack emerges.

  1. 27m (12) Bridge around grasstrees then up bomber handcrack (jugs abound) then bushbash up easy vegetated ledges for 10m to large ledge. Belay off finger crack sized trad gear in crack just right of arete with old piton at the base. (A cleaner alternative is to do the first pitch of Cynics United and walk left)

  2. 27m (16) Clip the manky piton (good wire and small cam around corner) and do a tough reachy move onto the arete. Up the face with distant pro for 8m to horizontal break (there is a good #0.75 and #0.5 camalot placement at 4m and a large nut placement at 6m). Traverse right slightly along this break to gain the vegetated crack on the right above overhung corner. Up this crack on good cams to belay on large ledge. Trad belay. This pitch can also be climbed via the Trojan (23) variant start, which climbs the tips crack on the right side of the arete into the top section of the original pitch.

  3. 13m (16) Crux. 'Steep' orange corner crack to lip, then juggy corner to cave and trad belay. You can easily join this pitch into the next one (use lot of extenders).

  4. 20m (15) Continue up the crack that turns into a rightwards leading ramp that eventually ends with a steep mantle onto a good ledge and tree belay (can be backed up with #2 camalot).

To exit walk up the hill to small cliffline. Follow this cliffline right for 100m or so to below tourist lookout and short gully that goes under metal bridge.

FFA: J Ewbank, 1968

Desperate, strenuous and with very small gear (1 x BD #1, 1 x BD #2, 1 x BD C3 #1, 1 x BD C3 #2, Double rack of wires + gear for the top half of The Illiad P2). From the belay at the end of Pitch 1 of The Illiad, climb the tips crack around the corner to the right, and join The Illiad Pitch 2 at the rooflet crack before the final slab. Continue to belay as for the rest of Pitch 2 of The Illiad.

FA: Paul Thomson, 1 Dec 2013

Start: Crack in middle of wall, left of 'The Iliad' and right of Constipation Chimney.

  1. 27m (-) Up crack through easy wall to small tree then larger tree. Originally done in two pitches.

  2. 13m (-) Up slight overhang on small nose to left, then then steeply to next ledge and bollard belay.

  3. 24m (-) Up 6m, traverse left on small ledge, up to big ledge.

4.+30m? (-) Traverse left and finish 'Constipation Chimney' or as you wish.

FA: Chris Regan & Bob Ryan, 1963

A major old-school line of little modern merit.

Start: Start at big black wall or small wall to its side.

  1. 30m (-) Up to first ledge 2m right of corner.

  2. 13m (-) Diagonally left and up to ledge.

  3. 30m (-) Traverse left to corner and up to ledge.

  4. 20m (12) Chimney to cave on left.

  5. 17m (-) Up, ignoring the scrub on the left.

  6. 13m (-) Wall on right.

  7. 13m (-) Traverse left and up chimney.

FA: Rhum Du climbers

FFA: D Tanner, 1964


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