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Rock: The last corner pitches (5) and (6) should be done via variant only

The corner finish that’s described for pitch five as the trad 14 should not be attempted due to large unstable rocks that threaten the belay. Take the option up the face left of the corner on the ring bolts and have some cams ready too for the 16 (or 17) finish. There is a lot of rock on the belay ledge for pitch five. Please take care.

PS: If you decide to do the corner regardless, it is suggested to traverse left out of corner a couple of metres above the belay and finish up on the head wall.

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Created 11 days ago - Edited 10 days ago
1 14 20m
2 10 20m
3 13 28m
4 13 25m
5 14 15m
6 10 10m

description

One of the most popular multi pitch routes in the Blue Mountains offering up a simmering dish of big exposure, good protection and easy moves. On nice sunny weekends there can be a queue so get in early! Sleepyheads starting at the crack of noon (which is bizarrely common) will also miss out on the cool morning shade and get smashed by the sun which blasts the route from midday onwards. Although there are many bolts on this route - a trad rack is required for pitches 2, 5 and the last pitch (single set of finger to fist sized cams + a couple of large wires will suffice). Most of the bolts were placed after the first ascent.

Start: After crossing the fixed wire walk another 40m or so to base of short scrappy looking right facing corner on right side of giant block. Up above is the vast black slab of the higher pitches.

  1. 20m (14) Short wall past bolt onto ledge then left to chimney (bolt), up to ledge and DRB belay.

  2. 20m (10) Trad protected crack to DRB belay in little alcove. Save a large cam for the last few metres of this pitch.

  3. 28m (13) Traverse up and right across slab past 6 bolts and couple of cam slots to DRB.

  4. 25m (13) Up via very easy climbing and no protection to second set of DRB after about 8m (ignore these). Continue up wall (3 bolts & optional cam), then step right to crack above bowel clenching exposure. Belay on big ledge below corner at DRB. If it gets crowded there are two sets of anchors here.

  5. 15m (14) Up easy trad protected corner for 20m and exit either left up exposed wall into the 'Variant Finish' (nicer but harder) or right (easy) to big ledge.

  6. 10m (10) If you took the rarely climbed right variant climb chossy overhang above.

Route history

First ascent: T. Batty & Bryden Allen †

Warnings

20 Nov 2022 Warning Rock: The last corner pitches (5) and (6) should be done via variant only

Location

Lat/Lon: -33.73435, 150.33704

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Grade citation

14,10,13,13,14,10 Assigned grade
14 Rockclimbs in the Upper Blue Mountains
16 [15 - 16] ++ grAId

ethic

Sublime Point is an old climbing area, with many routes dating from the 1950s and 1960s. Aid and mixed climbing was the fashion then, and the easier routes can be pretty bold for a modern climber. In the last 10 years there have been a lot of well protected sport routes added. This has been seen as controversial by some climbers who consider the crag a 'mixed' climbing venue.

inherited from West Face (Main Area)

Seasonality

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Seasonality

Quality

Mega Classic
Classic
Very Good
Good
Average
Don't Bother
Crap

Overall quality 79 from 676 ratings.

Difficulty - 14

Soft Touch
Easy
Average
Hard
Sandbag

Based on 2 ratings.

Suggested Grade

14
16

Based on 2 ratings.

Tick Types

Onsight 235
Flash 17
Red point 62
Solo 12
Tick 396
Pink point 1
Top rope 5
Attempt 15
Target 18

Comment keywords

fall exposed runout scary horrendous tricky difficult overhung hard struggle crux challenging solid sustained hands crazy shady smooth cruisy face interesting dry crack jugs confusing roof feet epic fiddly fingers chossy easy rest flake crap short sharp pockets bad weird bail traverse sunny enjoyable cool lovely fantastic super awesome perfect great fun brilliant good pleasant wicked sweet rad classic nice beautiful magic amazing incredible exciting stoked

Selected Guidebooks all

Author(s): Simon Carter

Date: 2019

ISBN: 9780958079082

The latest comprehensive, latest and greatest Blue Mountains Climbing Guide is here and it has more routes than you can poke a clip stick at! 3421 to be exact. You are not going to get bored.

Author(s): Simon Carter

Date: 2019

ISBN: 9780958079075

Simon Carter's "Best of the Blue" is the latest selected climbing guide book for the Blue Mountains and covers 1000 routes and 19 different climbing areas. For all the sport climbers out there, the travellers, or just anyone who doesn't want to lug around the big guide that's more than 3 times the size - cut out the riff-raff and get to the good stuff! This will pretty much cover everything you need!

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