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Routes in Middle Cliffs for selected grade

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Grade Route Gear style Popularity
Choc Chip Chai Sector
11 Queen's Shift

1950s style chossy ramble. Who needs protection when you just have a rope tied around your waist anyway?

Start: Starts 8m left of C on left side of square alcove.

  1. 20m (11) Up sandy corner nonsense to cave then left until you can stand.

  2. 17m (11) Up to cave, onto wall and up to small cave.

  3. 20m (12) Up to big ledge and tree belay.

  4. 40m (-) Left across ledge.

  5. 33m (12) Up and right to tree

  6. 20m (-) Walk to 5m corner, up it to tree.

  7. 27m (-) Up right to ledge to first gully. Up to flakes then chimney. Up to tree.

  8. 13m (-) Chimney.

Trad 190m, 8
Northern Walls
11 Medusa

Start: On wall, just right of "Achilles Crack".

  1. Wall to ledge and boulder belay.

  2. (crux) Right to overhanging corner then piton belay.

  3. Traverse by crawling left through slot (Can it get any worse!? -Ed). Rusted remains of piton belay.

  4. Up wall to tree.

5-7) Up slightly right to ledge and rotten buttress above to top.

FA: T. Batty & R. Ryan, 1963

Trad 140m
11 Perseus

"A one pitch climb and that could probably be avoided." [JME]

Start: To left of "Achilles Crack"

  1. 30m (crux) Up to bolt before bulge, left across overhang then left to tree. 2-5) 80m Easy climbing as you will to the top.

FA: Bryden Allen † & T. Batty, 1963

Trad 120m

Showing all 3 routes.

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