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Pole 28

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Description

Nice crag with one cliff in the sun all day and the other getting afternoon sun.

For the so-called "lower Pole 28 area" - which is actually the Flying Fox Area, climbed since 1970 - rap off the power-pole atop the cliff, just downhill from the upper Pole 28 left-side climbs (Alpha Male etc). Or use the Flying Fox Area descent.

Access issues inherited from Medlow Bath

Be wary of where you park, ensuring not to block any driveways or leave any rubbish. The crags are located on land owned by The Hydro Majestic, so act appropriately.

Ethic inherited from Blue Mountains

Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs. If you do the bolts may be removed.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

If you have benefited from climbing infrastructure in NSW, please consider making a donation towards maintenance costs. The Sydney Rockclimbing Club Rebolting Fund finances the replacement of old bolts on existing climbs and the maintenance of other hardware such as fixed ropes and anchors. The SRC purchases hardware, such as bolts and glue, and distributes them to volunteer rebolters across the state of New South Wales. For more information, including donation details, visit https://sydneyrockies.org.au/rebolting/

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it.

However, the fast growing scrub can conceal walking tracks in mere months, making remote and less popular crags slightly more difficult and fun to navigate to. Some appropriately discreet pruning is a far better alternative then track braiding (which causes far more damage).

However, do so only on Council land and definitely not in the National Park. Remember, to maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Do not cut flora and keep any tracks and infrastructure as minimal as possible or risk possible closures.

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route

The next 5 routes are on the right side of the descent stairs (facing out)

Start on left of main wall at slight corner. Follow left line of rings to lower-offs.

FA: J DeMartin, 2010

Start as for JaLL until second ring then head slightly right and follow rings to lower-offs.

FA: D Taylor, 2008

Great climbing with shade in the morning and sun in the afternoon. Lots of bolts and plenty of stylish moves. Hard for the grade!

FA: D Taylor, 2008

start 5m right of PtP. Scramble up to ledge, clip ring in roof then straight up to lower-offs.

FA: M Spring, 2008

Steep problem tending right then up. Mostly 19-21 moves with a single 23 sequence near the beginning. Very stylish climbing.

FA: D Taylor, 2008

The next routes are on the left side of the descent stairs (facing out)

Left most line

FA: Jason Lammers & Rick Phillips, 2011

Direct between the scoops

FA: Jason Lammers & Rick Phillips, 2011

On the left side of the crag coming down the stairs, third route along. Nice rock in the sun all day, and out of the wind! Good bit of winter rock!

FA: Tom Hepner, 2010

Up AM, then continue directly up the arete.

FA: Jason Lammers, 31 Mar 2012

First 2 bolts on BM then head left passing another bolt to gain arete and finish as per LoFi.

FA: Jason Lammers, 31 Mar 2012

Fourth climb along the left wall, a few metres past the blunt arete and Alpha Male.

FA: Tom & Hannah Hepner, 2010

Pleasant corner crack with overhanging crux, then easy corner and equalised small trees belay. Good protection throughout, mostly wires and a few cams. Sheltered from westerly wind and sun.

FA: Graham Dowden & Rene Provis, 18 Jan

Arete to shared lower off with SM

FA: Jason Lammers & Tanya Greeves, 2011

Cool orange streak

FA: Rick Phillips & Jason Lammers, 2011

Right of SM

FA: Jason Lammers, 31 Mar 2012

Burly overhanging roof crack with awkward exit followed by easy corner and tree belay. Make sure the cams stick, and add an extra grade for the crack exit.

FA: Graham Dowden & Rene Provis, 26 Jan

Seam crack through roof. Originally attempted on gear by Chris Coghill, then he added some bolts when his gear started falling out. Rohan took offense, chopped the bolts and stole the project. And the world was a more ethical and morally brighter place. Amen.

FA: Rohan, 2013

Hard start and little wall then right on jugs through the roof.

Start: Middle of big cave.

FA: Karen Allen, 23 Mar 2011

Up the easy start to lip of cave. Traverse the lip on jugs, and then pull onto easy orange head wall using dippy crimps.

Start: 20m R of FF just before next cave

Set by Jason Lammers

FA: Tim Mayer, 31 Mar 2018

First 5 bolts of HW then directly up to tricky mantle and slab finish

FA: Jason Lammers, 2011

Up the steep crack, then move right to lip and up.

FA: Jason Lammers, 5 Mar 2011

Hard start to overhung arete - pull around this onto bright orange headwall.

FA: Monty Curtis

Set by Rick Phillips, 2011

Orange face on left side of shale cave, about 20m right of previous route. Right trending line to lip of small roof, hard move above this then flake to finish.

FA: Neil Monteith, 6 Mar 2011

Rambly corner crack, then trend left up grey juggy wall to tree belay.

FA: Graham Dowden & Rene Provis, 25 Nov

Start: 2m right of TNSOOS Second Year.

Shallow corner crack topped by block, then bash up gully to right avoiding ants. Tree belay.

FA: Graham Dowden & Rene Provis, 25 Nov

Hard for the grade. Starts in obvious orange corner and follows rings around roof at mid height.

FA: Tanya Greeves, 5 Mar 2011

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Routes

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Grade Route

Named after my kinship, the three brothers. Really nice climbing on good features, with just a few spicy moves. Stick-clip first bolt for sweet boulder moves through undercut start on good face holds, then pleasant wall climbing on funky features to a thin finish over the bulge. Start: Up the centre of a narrow south-facing wall with an undercut start and a corner to the right. FA: Tom Hepner, Hannah Hepner, Tom ‘T-bor’ Thomson - 2010-00-00

FA: Tom Hepner, Hannah Hepner & Tom 'T-bor' Thomson, 2010

As for BTAN to 2nd RB. Traverse L to 2nd RB of BK and up

Start right of Brothers K at crack.

FA: Rick Phillips, Feb 2011

2m right of corner. Up the techo red wall.

FA: Jason Lammers, 5 Mar 2011

Impressive looking line of bolts up a steep orange nose.

Set by Tom Hepner

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