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Flying Fox Area

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Description

Mostly old school run out trad from 1970 with a few newer routes, and sport lines described as being in "lower Pole 28".

Access issues inherited from Medlow Bath

Be wary of where you park, ensuring not to block any driveways or leave any rubbish. The crags are located on land owned by The Hydro Majestic, so act appropriately.

Approach

From Bellevue Cres left down dirt fire trail to foot path and steps under power lines.

Descent notes

Descend shale below red overhangs marked by white painted arrow to blocks and gap at -33.67943, 150.27551

Scramble left through blocks and down loose path to tree for ~12m rap to bottom. Beware shute below is full of loose debris and rockfall.

Ethic inherited from Blue Mountains

Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs. If you do the bolts may be removed.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

If you have benefited from climbing infrastructure in NSW, please consider making a donation towards maintenance costs. The Sydney Rockclimbing Club Rebolting Fund finances the replacement of old bolts on existing climbs and the maintenance of other hardware such as fixed ropes and anchors. The SRC purchases hardware, such as bolts and glue, and distributes them to volunteer rebolters across the state of New South Wales. For more information, including donation details, visit https://sydneyrockies.org.au/rebolting/

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it.

However, the fast growing scrub can conceal walking tracks in mere months, making remote and less popular crags slightly more difficult and fun to navigate to. Some appropriately discreet pruning is a far better alternative then track braiding (which causes far more damage).

However, do so only on Council land and definitely not in the National Park. Remember, to maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Do not cut flora and keep any tracks and infrastructure as minimal as possible or risk possible closures.

History

View historical timeline

Older route descriptions and "quotes' taken from George Owens (1995) Rockclimbs in the upper Blue Mountains, 2nd Ed. published by the SRC. Beware any mentioned ancient pitons and bolts.

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Routes

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Grade Route

Start: Leftmost climb of cliff on left side of The Underworld

  1. 10m Vegetated dirty chimney.

  2. 20m (14). Up tight chimney then bash up gully.

FA: G. Owens, 1970

Start: Corner marked C, 8m right of The Underworld

  1. 37m (crux). Corner into big left crack. Up to where corner and roof start, aid last 3m. Tension traverse left.

  2. 13m. Chimney, hole and corner to bush.

FA: C. George, 1970

A variant end to Orpheus Arete.

From Orpheus Arete anchor 1 move left and up weakness in centre of wall.

FA: C. George

Start: 30m right of Cerberus.

Old Description

  1. 23m. Climb big tree to small tree and onto wall. (Or perhaps watch someone else do it? - Ed.) Traverse left and up to ledge. Block and piton belay.

  2. 34m (15). Over lip, right onto arete and up to bush.

FA: C. George, 1970

Start: 15m right of Orpheus Arete.

  1. 23m (14). Traverse left onto arete and up to block. Piton belay.

  2. 30m. Right and up through overhang. Left and up arete.

FA: C. George, 1970

Start on big block 2m right of Embossed Carbuncle.

  1. 20m. Wall to piton belay.

  2. 33m. Wall and overhangs to bush.

FA: C. George

Start: 5m right of Fibbertigibbet.

  1. 20m (10) Corner to cave and piton belay.

  2. 17m. Chimney and corner to piton belay.

  3. 10m. Chimney.

FA: G. Owens & B. Crouch, 1970

Start: 5m right of Who's Lead?

  1. 17m (13) Arete (take care) to block and piton belay.

  2. 33m. Wall and easy overhangs.

FA: B. Crouch, 1970

Start: Marked C at orange left-leaning corner.

"Pitch 1 is good." (Owens)

  1. 27m (17). Small left facing corner to bulge, left across to and on to ramp. Up roof to hand traverse left to arete and piton belay.

  2. 26m. Diagonally right toward gap in wall, up over bulge, slight right and up easily to bush.

FA: K. Bell & H. Bevan, 1970

Not in 1992 guide, probably cracks in orange wall but have to ask Butch.

FA: J. Smoothy & P. Butcher

Start 13m left of 'Psycho Arete'.

  1. 7m. Chimney to tree in corner on right.

  2. 13m. Corner to cave and piton belay.

  3. 40m (14). Overhang then slight right. Up easy wall to dead tree.

FA: G. Owens & G. Harrison, 1970

Start: Marked PA just left of arete below small corner.

Appeared to originally climb departed tree. Ascend corner or traverse in low from the right. Plenty of pro for the first 20m, thereafter plenty of jugs but unknown.

  1. Tree and arete to ledge.

  2. (10) Arete to former dead tree.

FA: B. Crouch, 1970

Start marked M.

New description

Straight up from the mark to the lower gum with a lump on it. 5m grade 2 ledges then another 10m grade 3 jugs with pro past a block to a crusty carrot. Opportunities for pro now reduce with elevation. 10m to a wilted carrot, over which with a spicy mantle, then run it out to the tree. Short corner to cliff top.

Original description

  1. 20m bolt runner left and up small corner, right and up to block, piton belay.

  2. 33m (13) Up to bolt runner, slight right and up. Traverse left, mantle and up to former dead tree

FA: B. Crouch & G. Owens, 1970

Start: 3m right of Megalomaniac.

  1. 23m (2) Easy wall and crack to block and piton belay. (Or maybe 3 Eucalypt saplings 50 years later.)

  2. 20m (8) Right-leading corners to tree.

  3. 7m Easy corner and slight overhang to tree well back.

FA: B. Crouch & G. Owens, 1970

A varient start to Hair. Start 7m left of Riff-Raff.

  1. 13m Crack to tree.

  2. 24m Crack til it joins Hair.

  3. As for Hair or off right.

FA: G. Owens & G. Harrison, 1970

Start 7m left of No Time Climb.

  1. 13m To gully/corner, bush belay.

  2. 20m (8) Gully/corner to tree.

FA: B. Crouch & G. Owens, 1970

Start 13m left of As You Like It.

  1. 14m (11) Chimney and traverse left to tree.

  2. 23m Traverse left and up bulge and gully. Walk off here?

  3. 10m Corner to walk down.

FA: B. Crouch & G. Owens, 1970

A variant start to Nymphomaniac. Start 13m left of it at orange chimney/crack marked A.Y.L.I.

  1. 13m (6) Crack, out of cave and up to arete, to piton belay 1 of Nymphomaniac.

FA: R. Smith

A variant start to As You Like It, start 2m right of it.

  1. Finger crack and reach to cave.

FA: B., J. Harrington & R. Taylor, 1994

Start marked N, 3m left of The Homo.

  1. 20m (13) Arete and piton belay.

  2. 23m (12) Up arete to tree.

FA: B. Crouch & G. Owens

(They certainly don't name 'em like they used to! - Ed.)

Start 2m left of Sultry.

  1. 18m (12) Wall and slight overhang to bollard.

  2. 22m Up and left, easier rock and corner to stump.

FA: B. Crouch & G. Owens, 1970

Start 3m left of Aquarius.

  1. "Straight up." (Owens)

FA: B. Crouch, 1970

Start 7m left of Deceptor Arete.

  1. 20m (8) Chimney tree to piton belay.

  2. 10m (8) Angled chimney and left side of block to tree.

FA: G. Owens, 1970

Descend shale below red overhangs marked by white painted arrow to blocks and gap at -33.67943, 150.27551

Scramble left through blocks and down loose path to tree for ~12m rap to bottom. Beware shute below is full of loose debris and rockfall.

Start 13m left of old rap route.

  1. 14m Short wall to tree.

  2. 13m (12) Up tree, onto wall, up arete.

FA: B. Crouch & G. Owens, 1970

"Not great." (Owens). Start marked B, 3m right of old rap route.

  1. 10m Crack to cave and tree.

  2. 17m (11) Corner to left, up and out chimney, traverse right and jump (!?) to corner. Or ramp to right, through hole and up same corner.

FA: B. Crouch & G. Owens, 1970

Start 2m right of Blowfly.

  1. 10m scrubby crack.

  2. 30m Bulge, up crack and wall to tree.

FA: P. Edwards & G. Owens, 1970

Start: Marked I, 47m right of Contemplation at chimney/corner visibly separated from cliff at top.

Deep chimney with more dirt the deeper you go, and little pro toward the light.

Old Description

  1. 27m (7) Chimney to piton belay.

  2. 14m Easily up chimney and gully.

FA: G. Harrison & G. Owens, 1970

Start: Unmarked, 2m right of Inexperience.

Old aid crack jammed with ferns with no tree to bridge. Probably now unclimbable apart from potentially run-out arete.

Old Description

  1. 27m (crux) Bridge tree, aid bulge, up (traverse back to left to protect second), then right to arete and bollard.

  2. 13m Up, traverse 6m left, up and right around top. Easy to piton belay.

FA: G. Owens, 1970

Start: At crack right of Delilah.

Sport Route: 10 bolts to lower-off. A funky and gymnastic route with a thoughtful crux. Starts at a flared groove in the yellow wall.

Up groove for several metres then onto left wall, up through thoughtful blocky bulges on nose (after clipping 6th bolt, unclip 5th for less rope drag) then aesthetic grey & orange face to lower-off.

FA: Tom Hepner, 2010

Start: Unmarked, 4m right of Crankenfurten.

No doubt already climbed.

Towering fist crack 7m to block, then 10m to chimney and roof. Top is vegetated chimney, or escape up grey wall either side to tree belay.

Start: Marked SB 15m right of Big Trad Crack

Twin hand cracks and flared offwidth squeeze leads to open-bottom bomb-bay chimney. Up this then escape left up jugs to tree belay.

Start: At steep orange corner 10m right of SB.

  1. 20m (17) Steep orange corner and squeeze/offwidth to ledge with trees. Take several 10-60mm cams and trend right below first small tree to arete to avoid compost. Rap off big tree or ..

  2. 20m (9) Low angled ramp, veg and easy corners and wall to top.

FA: Graham Dowden & Rene Provis, 17 Oct

Start: Marked CC.

Broken orange overhang with flakes and cracks, that continues up through grey juggy wall above.

May have been a few moves of aid in the thin crack? Cram it with small stuff and soldier up, or lay away the flake.

Start: Grey-green corner marked ED 20m right of CC.

  1. 40m Up chimney/corner to ledge. Smaller chimney and easy overhangs to bollard.

FA: B. Crouch, 1970

Start 27m right of Easy Day below short corner near forked tree.

  1. 46m Into corner, up to ledge, step left then up weakness to tree.

FA: B. Crouch, 1970

Continue right facing cliff to Three Brothers descent gully.

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