Help

The Sunbath

Seasonality

J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D

Description

Park at the intersection of of Belgravia St and Station St Medlow Bath. Walk 150m to the end of Belgravia St and follow a well trod track west down the hill for about 300m. When you reach a circular concrete "bath" (full of leaf litter and rubbish, not water), you've gone about 50m past the walk-down. Go back to the walk-down and follow it down the gully. Pitang Wall is immediately on your right as you reach the bottom of the gully, 'Schwing' Wall is immediately to your left. 'Atoms in Action' area is 60-80m around right (north) of Pitang Wall.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sRqqpn5dFP4

© (aca_admin)

Access issues inherited from Medlow Bath

Be wary of where you park, ensuring not to block any driveways or leave any rubbish. The crags are located on land owned by The Hydro Majestic, so act appropriately.

Ethic inherited from Blue Mountains

Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs. If you do the bolts may be removed.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

If you have benefited from climbing infrastructure in NSW, please consider making a donation towards maintenance costs. The Sydney Rockclimbing Club Rebolting Fund finances the replacement of old bolts on existing climbs and the maintenance of other hardware such as fixed ropes and anchors. The SRC purchases hardware, such as bolts and glue, and distributes them to volunteer rebolters across the state of New South Wales. For more information, including donation details, visit https://sydneyrockies.org.au/rebolting/

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it.

However, the fast growing scrub can conceal walking tracks in mere months, making remote and less popular crags slightly more difficult and fun to navigate to. Some appropriately discreet pruning is a far better alternative then track braiding (which causes far more damage).

However, do so only on Council land and definitely not in the National Park. Remember, to maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Do not cut flora and keep any tracks and infrastructure as minimal as possible or risk possible closures.

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Reorder Bulk edit Convert grades
Grade Route

Just around the corner from Manana is this sandy cave. A lot of the rock here is of questionable quality. Take care with anyone standing below. Climbs described left to right.

FA: P.Mort & G.Short

FA: G.Short & P.Mort

Start: As for PiM first two hangerless carrot bolts then head further right on FHs. Looks like its about 19/20.

Start: In between PiM and Viper at chossy white rock. Up through this (FH) and finish up wall on RBs. Take care - much loose rock on this in the first half.

FA: M.Ashmore & Jacqui

Mixed route - bring cams.

FA: G.Short & P.Mort

Major corner crack

FA: G.Short & P.Mort

Classic easy sport route - bring the bolt plates for this. Start 40m left of Katoomba Bros at grey face with a black streak up high, topped by a small roof. Straight up the vertical face mostly on jugs with two hands free ledges in first half. Thin start then consistent on good holds to the crux, which is just above the last bolt. Finish under roof. Well protected but with a little run out at the top just to make it interesting!

FA: Peter Chaly & Niall Doherty, 2003

Warning Flora and Fauna: Broad headed snake

2 metres right of Mañana. Long, easy and well protected with 9 U bolts then a lower off. Crux about a 3rd of the way up then jugs.

FA: Cam O'Leary & Emma Newall, 12 Feb 2018

Walk ten metres up the gully and begin on the obvious ledge. Climb leftmost crack to cave, then up central pillar of the cave and the wall above to a runout mantle topout. 3BB over the top to the right.

FFA: T. Chaffey & M. East, 1 Sep 2018

Start as for Chadmeister. Climb the easy diagonal crack trending climber's right to below the edge of the cave, then up the face to 3BB over top.

FFA: T. Chaffey & M. East, 1 Sep 2018

Up the middle of the yellow and grey face to the right of the gully and 5 metres left of Kedumba Sisters.

FA: Nic Plim & Cam O'Leary, 18 May 2018

Start left of Kaboomba Brothers. Bouldery start to pleasant rambling. Intended as a beginner lead/kids climb. Lots of bolts. Nice view from the top.

FA: allie pepper & Emma Newall, 1 May 2018

4 carrots up the slab (take brackets). The first move is tricky for those at the grade. Anchor consists of a solid single D-shackle off a chain.

FA: B. Junge, 1994

Line of ring bolts up hanging slab. Apparently the crack 1m to the right is off route.

Start: 2m right (facing in) of 'Kaboomba Brothers'.

FA: Ed Rutherford, 2006

Go up orange streak, face moves only, no use of crack or arête. Fairly contrived, but a nice sequence of moves.

FA: Ed Rutherford

Corner between 'Radioactive Man' and 'Spook Eyes'. Well protected crack with some very nice climbing at the grade.

Up to either rings for lower off (shared anchor with 'Spook Eyes') or 2 bolts on ledge for comfortable top belay. First climbed in 2001 by Colin of Katoomba adventures and named Gardeners Crack but evidently not reported to the guide book editors.

FA: 2001

Nice steep route with an exciting finish. The anchors are over the ledge - best to rap off unless you want to destroy your rope (can someone add anchors to the head wall above the ledge instead?).

FA: J. Smoothy, 1995

Short intense bouldery little number. Bit of a one-move-wonder ...

FA: J. Smoothy, 1995

To the right of Atoms in Action. Up the arete. Starts on the left of the arete. . Don’t stray too far right for full value.

FA: Marty Doolan & Cam O'Leary

Set by Cam

Start in back of cave then fight/thrutch to rest ledge. Cruise to top, tree belay. This route was first climbed by Tom Chaffey, four days later Nathaniel and Mitch climbed it believing it was a first ascent. After being passed by for years its amazing that it got this much attention in one week. The 2nd ascentionists gave it a harder grade than Tom. Perhaps its a sandbag? Find out for yourself.

FA: Tom Chaffey, 16 Sep 2018

One for the kiddies. Down the path below GBTS then up to the right.

FA: Stuart Sims & Cam O'Leary, 10 Aug 2018

Another worthwhile easy climb that adds to the range of options for beginner leaders at this crag. 5 bolts to a DBB

FA: Mel Rowland & Stuart Sims, 2 Sep 2018

Maybe the easiest sport climb in the blue mountains. Another good one for the kiddies.

FA: Duncan Gow & Cam O'Leary, 22 Aug 2018

On the left side of the arete. Plenty of bolts. Plenty of jugs. Good beginner lead climb.

FA: Stuart Sims, 1 Sep 2017

The leftmost route on the wall. Follow the U bolts left toward the arete and then back slightly right to the anchors.

FA: Emma Newall, 1 Aug 2017

Right of IOEP. Shared start with Ole Biscuit Barrel, then follow the bolts left to the low anchors.

FA: G. Short & P. Mort, 1994

Shared start with Pitang Pitang. Up the small arete for 3 bolts, then follow the ramp diagonally R to DRB lower-off with shackles. Likely to be stiff for the grade.

FA: G. Short & P. Mort, 1994

Straight up the face, crossing OBB and sharing one of its bolts, to chain/ring lower off. 5 BR's in total.

Start: Start 2m right of OBB.

FA: Niall Doherty

If you are tall this will feel like an 18

FA: G. Short & P. Mort, 1994

Start as for GFL, then left to big move off small holds

Central worn orange streak. Easy start up small left facing corner to blank finish. A hold has broken off this move so undercling the break and dyno away! After the dyno keep chugging straight up past a hidden bolt on a ledge to a chain at the top of the cliff.

FA: A. Farquar, 1994

Fun climb with nice moves, ive seen 2 ppl get flipped when falling just below the loweroffs - Dont let the rope go behind your legs!

FA: G. Short & P. Mort, 1994

The right arete of the wall starting 2m right of Old Salt. Was originally climbed starting at Old Salt and traversing right across the wall (by Tim Davenport circa 2000). The direct start up the arete was added in 2017.

FA: Ed Rutherford

Corner left end of the well. Up crack then across to anchors

FA: G. Short & P. Mort, 1994

FA: G. Short & P. Mort, 1994

1 18 20m
2 15 26m

Both pitches can be combined - bring a lot of bolt plates!

  1. 20m (18) Fun juggy face, through a bulge then traverse left to small ledge and semi-hanging belay.

  2. 35m (15) Long exposed face. This pitch is all on carrots. Double ring bolt belay or top out and use carrots set back from the edge. Walk off unless you have double ropes.

FA: G. Short & P. Mort, 1994

Up, staying right of S, after second RB up and traverse to third. 3 RBs to DRB lower off.

FA: Niall Doherty

Start: Around to the right of shwing.

FA: G. Trambaiolo

Start: Left (facing out) around the corner from Schwing, 7m past Just Boot It. Belay ring at head height, at the start of the low roof.

Clip into the belay bolt! Desperate undercut grade 20 start, which was freed on FA. Best for leader to get a boost from the second, then leave a long sling hanging from the first piece of pro for the second to aid with when they come up. After that, grade 13 moves following shallow corner up until it steepens, then traverse right and slightly up to join halfway belay of Gimme Shelter. Good pro with threads and medium wires, bring a #4 Camalot for the first piece.

FA: Niall Doherty & Mike Patterson, 2006

10m right (facing in) of Just Boot It. Up light coloured chossy face, go right around roof, then up and left. Two pitches, or climb as one, lower to halfway anchor, then rap from that.

FA: Niall Doherty & Peter Chaly

Can be accessed via The Lottery of Latitude instead of GS P1.

FA: Niall Doherty & Peter Chaly

Did you know?

Did you know that you can create an account to record, track and share your climbing ascents? Thousands of climbers are already doing this.

Activity

Check out what is happening in The Sunbath.

Deutsch English Español Français Italiano 한국어 中文