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Valley Farm

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Description

The cliffline that runs underneath 'The Sunbath' area, away from the Coliseum and towards 'Sooty Crag'. An old neglected area with only a few newer climbs. Inspect all ancient (1965) pitons and bolts before launching into an adventure with a potentially insecure ending. Old climbs are difficult to identify from lack of marking and obscure descriptions.

© (Niall)

Access issues inherited from Medlow Bath

Be wary of where you park, ensuring not to block any driveways or leave any rubbish. The crags are located on land owned by The Hydro Majestic, so act appropriately.

Approach

Access by going down the steps and ladders from 'The Sunbath'. The top of the descent is at the end of the track that runs underneath 'Old Salt' and adjacent climbs.

© (Niall)

Descent notes

Be careful descending as the track fence, steps, and ladders are in various states of disrepair.

© (Niall)

Ethic inherited from Blue Mountains

Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs. If you do the bolts may be removed.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

If you have benefited from climbing infrastructure in NSW, please consider making a donation towards maintenance costs. The Sydney Rockclimbing Club Rebolting Fund finances the replacement of old bolts on existing climbs and the maintenance of other hardware such as fixed ropes and anchors. The SRC purchases hardware, such as bolts and glue, and distributes them to volunteer rebolters across the state of New South Wales. For more information, including donation details, visit https://sydneyrockies.org.au/rebolting/

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it.

However, the fast growing scrub can conceal walking tracks in mere months, making remote and less popular crags slightly more difficult and fun to navigate to. Some appropriately discreet pruning is a far better alternative then track braiding (which causes far more damage).

However, do so only on Council land and definitely not in the National Park. Remember, to maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Do not cut flora and keep any tracks and infrastructure as minimal as possible or risk possible closures.

History

View historical timeline

Trad and mixed aid routes were logged here in 1965, 1969 and 1980, with only a few recent sport routes.

© (Niall)

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route

The following climbs start on the halfway ledge at the bottom of the steel ladder halfway down the valley descent.

Starts off the far left end of the ledge which is at the bottom of the steel ladder halfway down the valley descent.

FA: Glenn Short & Pam Mort

Starts halfway out the ledge that is at the bottom of the steel ladder halfway down the valley descent.

FA: Niall Doherty & Hamish Kerr

The following climbs start at the bottom of the cliff. Look for remnants of stone walls and cuttings on this wider part of the old track that provided access to the Valley Farm.

"Not good" (Owens) Start 30m left of stairs in small corner.

  1. 13m slight corner, right and up to bush.

  2. 17m, easy to right of steps.

FA: G. Owens, 1965

5m left of All Sorts. Finishes on ledge at 3 carrot belay of 'Virgins with Rifles'. You will need minimum 4 bolt plates.

FA: Niall Doherty

Round the corner from 'Bus Stop Boxer'. Start in the right corner under the overhang. Climb up through the crack, and out the top.

FA: Mitchell Browne, 9 Apr 2020

To the left of 'Bondi'. Start standing on the rock under the overhang. Quite a lack of feet at the start of the climb (hence the name). Possible start from the ground, but might be very hard. Climb out the top.

FA: Mitchell Browne, 9 Apr 2020

Start: In corner 33m left of All Sorts.

  1. 13m, corner/chimney to tree.

  2. 17m, corner, traverse right on to wall and up to ledge (bolt belay).

  3. 13m, up.

FA: G. Owens, 1965

Start 10m left of Centaur.

  1. 20m (12) wall and thin crack.

  2. 33m, gully to right.

Wide gully and watercourse here.

Start: In chimney 50m up right wall of big gully which is 73m left of Anonymous.

  1. 13m (8) chimney to tree.

  2. 17m, gully/corner.

FA: G. Owens, 1965

Start: 8m left of gully

  1. 13m (9) up to bolt belay.

  2. 17m, up.

FA: G. Owens, 1965

Start: In chimney/corner 30m left of Fruitless.

  1. 20m (crux) up to bolt runner, traverse right and up to piton and bolt belay.

  2. 13m, traverse right, up break in overhang and back left to bush.

  3. 14m, through bulge with piton runners and slight crack on right to top bolt belay.

FA: G. Owens, 1965

Start below left leaning ferny crack about 25m right of Rubber Soul. Trend right up line of least resistance via grey slabs and slight crack to small tea tree below final short corner. Spaced slings, stoppers in notches and cams in breaks for the bold leader.

Start: 5m right of Revolver.

  1. 26m, rising left traverse to orange corner, tree belay.

  2. 30m (crux), crack left of corner, back into crack and up to roof. Traverse left and up wall.

Start: 50m left of Trog.

  1. 20m, wall to tree.

  2. 20m, wall to tree.

  3. 10m (14), traverse under overhang, up crack.

FA: C. Monteath, 1969

Start: 20m left of Rubber Soul

  1. 13m, easily up to bolt belay.

  2. 27m (crux) mantle above bolt runner, traverse left and up crack.

FA: C. Monteath, 1969

The wall left of Hard Day's Night. Straight up the wall to reach L into a wide crack. Up onto small ledge then follow the line through two more bulges (crux) to the top of the cliff.

FA: Rod Young, Ant Prehn & Mark Burton, 1980

Just left of Running Gun Blues is this overhung orange wall with prominent flake feature in the middle. The line was bolted some time in the '80/90s with bash-in carrots and hangerless expansion bolts but didn't appear to have been climbed (lots of loose rock). It has now been cleaned, rebolted and brought back to life. Crux can be done two ways - the left version is easier but more spicy.

FA: 21 Feb 2020

The excellent major arete left of the bolted orange wall. Up the arete and wall carefully past the nose then up the slabby arete to a small ledge. Crux past this and series of bouldery ledges to lower-offs. Originally finished left into the corner and topped out on trad.

FA: Rod Young & Mark Burton, 1980

Major corner with several bushes sprouting from it just to the left of Street Legal. There are two old carrots about halfway up - possibly a belay - and a ledge with white Eucalypt below the final overhang, from which exit stage left. The crack ranges from narrow chimney to offwidth and presents the opportunity for an old school epic.

Major crackline just left of corner that becomes vegetated (and thinner) up high. This looks like a proper classic with a re-clean. There is at least one old carrot bolt in the middle of this route where it gets wide.

Face 10m left of Mystery Corner. Rock quality is a bit crap and it needs a brush. There are five old hangerless carrot bolts - one that has a bail biner fixed to it. Start up short corner crack (trad) then through small bulge (first bolt) and up face above past numerous bolts and some bomber medium/large cam slots. Double BRs on top but no way of walking off.

Another previously unrecorded route. Chiseled initials below short section of orange thin cracks leading to steep corner and small roof. There is a line of rusty carrots leading right along the lip off choss to the right of the steep corner as well.

Start with an 8m section of steep layback crack on trad (hand/fist sized cams) then traverse left onto sustained bolted face. 70m rope required for lower-off.

Start: 90m left of Hard Days Night at small left-leading corner under huge chimney.

  1. 13m (crux) steep left leading flake (ignore random FH with project tag from the 90s), then bushbash right to base of huge chimney.

  2. 14m, chimney to roof, traverse along roof, over lip and into slot.

  3. 30m, chimney/corner to roof, along and over. Corner, left, up.

FA: G. Owens, 1970

FFA: D. Murphy, 1995

Prominent bolted arete. Climb up wooden rungs screwed into tree to gain rock. Trend right across grey face then launch up arete above. This was another route that had been sniffed at by someone decades ago - there are old carrots on a ledge about 10m from the top, an old battery stashed in a cave and a bolt with a faded project tag down the bottom near start of Stonkered.

FA: 21 Feb 2020

10m left of Stonkered is another line with a random FH and project tag from the dark ages. There appears to be one stainless carrot bolt above the tagged bolt and nothing above that. The route starts with a very short and awkward undercut tight corner then goes slightly right and up slabby face.

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