Lower Cliff

Access: Access road is 4WD only (and probably should be closed)

Due to heavy rainfall in 2021/2022 the road down to this crag is now in very poor condition - with a liquefied mud section up top that can bog even the best 4wd vehicles. Advise walking down instead.

See warning details and discuss

Created 10 days ago




Theses routes are located on the lower cliff.

Access issues

Rap from anchors near the power pole

Ethic inherited from Blue Mountains

Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs. If you do the bolts may be removed.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

If you have benefited from climbing infrastructure in NSW, please consider making a donation towards maintenance costs. The Sydney Rockclimbing Club Rebolting Fund finances the replacement of old bolts on existing climbs and the maintenance of other hardware such as fixed ropes and anchors. The SRC purchases hardware, such as bolts and glue, and distributes them to volunteer rebolters across the state of New South Wales. For more information, including donation details, visit

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it.

However, the fast growing scrub can conceal walking tracks in mere months, making remote and less popular crags slightly more difficult and fun to navigate to. Some appropriately discreet pruning is a far better alternative then track braiding (which causes far more damage).

However, do so only on Council land and definitely not in the National Park. Remember, to maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Do not cut flora and keep any tracks and infrastructure as minimal as possible or risk possible closures.


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Grade Route

Stunning steep face climbing, but rather committing.

Starts on the cliffline directly below where the access track to pole 28 splits (to either the left, or right side). Walk 30m downhill to the obvious rocky buttress.

Find the rap anchors on the rock buttress, rap down 5m to the belay at the top of the pitch. Re-direct the rap rope, and abseil down the "groove" in the direction of Reservoir Dogs/The Block, straight down the gray slab on the LEFT side of the arete (looking out), 30m to the belay on the triangular ledge.

Climb up from the ledge, move left along the break and out through the roof. Clip the bolt past the lip of the roof, and commit to the intimidating crux, with sustained hard moves throughout the runout straight up the wall (avoid straying off right on moss and friable rock) until the next bolt. Up vague seam on good rock (avoid moss out right) to rest. Dyno off ledge, and straight up the guts of the turret-headwall on spaced bolts, with sustained thin and technical climbing all the way to the belay.

Bring up Second, then scramble back up the initial 5m rap (consider roping up, or backing-up the scramble off the abseil rope).

If you are unable to complete the pitch, either Jumaar up the abseil rope, or you can rap again (35m) from the belay on the ledge to the ground, and find the exit gully by following the cliffline around to the left (looking out) as for the Three Brothers area.

Set: Paul Thomson, 11 Aug 2015

FA: Paul Thomson, 21 Aug 2015

These routes are on the lower cliff line. Rap in from anchors near the power pole below the upper cliff line.

The following route is located at Pole 28 LOWER CLIFF (in the huge cave/overhang). See intro to area for directions.

Mixed Route: 4 bolts plus med-large cams (double #2; 3, 4 Camalot). Lower-off.

In the huge cave/overhang near the drainage/notch directly below Upper Pole 28. Start on the left where the horizontal splitter leaves a ledge.

With first piece placed, launch into a pumpy no- footer L-R hand traverse (no. 3 then no. 4 Camalot) before passing 3 bolts where the crack widens, then a 4th bolt heading straight up the steep wall on crimps to horizontal break (no. 2 Camalot ideal but a no. 1 or 3 would work) and lower-off anchors just left of arête.

FA: Tom Hepner & Tom ‘T-bor’ Thomson, 2010

On the LOWER cliff. A few hundred metres along the cliff (north-east) walking from Crankenfurten (see Three Brothers area) and about 50m short of Bewilderbeast. Up to double rings, then continue as for FatF.

FA: M Spring, 2008

On LOWER cliff. Starts between the small double arete, 3m left of Copperhead on Ice. Line of ringbolts to power-pole at cliff edge of upper Pole 28 area.

FA: D Taylor, M Spring & A Bergman, 2000


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