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Monument Ridge Gully

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Summary

NOTE: As of January 2021, all areas of Mount York (including camping) are now open!

Access issues inherited from Blue Mountains

The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Do not cut flora and keep any tracks and infrastructure as minimal as possible.

Practically all crags are either in National Park or in council reserve: dog owners are reminded that dogs are not allowed in National Parks at any time and fines have been issued, while for crags on council reserve the BMCC leash law requires that dogs be on-leash.

Ethic inherited from Mount York

Many and varied, please try to respect them all!

Retro-bolting has occurred several times over the years and is generally condemned and dealt with swiftly.

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route

Mmmmm.

Start: 80m right of the gully. In the first compact section of cliff.

FA: A.Penney, 1982

Start: 5m right.

Start: 4m right again.

"Um, yes I did it. But I didnt think it was worth writting up!" RT

Start: Rightward leaning corner 25m right of EC.

FA: R.Taylor, 1974

Yes!! Take big stuff if you really want some protection.

Start: 25m right of the gully.

FA: R.Taylor, 1974

2m right of Silly Chimney. Bolts.

FA: J.Smoothy, 1984

4m R. Turn the bulge and carefully up past 2 bolts.

FA: G.Fieg, 1990

Start: 20m R of Silly Chimney, L of tree below single carrot on wall. Straight up following carrots (one FH) to lower offs.

FA: ​​W Williams & G Short, 2009

Start: Adjacent to Last Thoughts on R of tree. Follow bolts to lower offs. ​​

FA: W Williams & G Short, 2009

Left of the corner with bushes?

Start: 20m BELOW and left of 'Rotating Toothbrush'. Treed ledge 4m above the track??

FA: J.Smoothy, 1983

Steep chimney/crack, corner and crack.

Start: 55m (?) right of SC at bushes left of yellow choss corner with roof at 6m?

FA: R.Taylor, 1974

Just L of arete, 5m L of Rotating Toothbrush. Up past two bolts to rap station.

FA: J.Smoothy & F.Lumsden, 1983

Start: As for previous but right to cave.

FA: C.Wilmott & D.Le Dieu, 1994

The only reason you really came up here. 2 bolts to nowhere. The easier climbing above is unprotected and dirty.

FA: R.Weigand, G.Robertson & M.Grey, 1982

Climb up easily with stick clip to clip first bolt (or take trad gear). The thin cracks right of bolt to reach left, up and left to overhanging line. Airily up to anchors.

FA: R.Young, A.Prehn & M.Burton, 1980

Active Project with tag between on The Loose and Let’s Dance.

The righthand of three routes on this wall. Up wall and bulgy overhang to anchors.

FA: R.Young & A.Prehn, 1983

6m R. Clean aesthetic corner.

FA: R.Young, A.Prehn & M.Burton, 1980

1m R. Bulges on right wall of the arete. Stay off the arete.

Start: 1m right.

FA: R.Young, A.Prehn & M.Burton, 1980

Follow bolts to roof, over and up.

Start: 2m right again.

FA: A.Prehn & R.Young, 1983

The left hand route on Cracked Emerald wall. A gymnastic move past second bolt follow right wall of arete to anchors.

FA: Rod Young & Evan Robinson, 28 Jan

Start just left of CE (marked). Bouldery start to break, up compact wall following RBS to anchors.

FA: R.Young, 1988

Bridge tree, then left up centre of the wall, left at the 2nd bolt.

Start: 1m right again.

FA: A.Prehn, R.Young & M.Burton, 1982

Right side of wall. Thin crimping. Stick clip first bolt. 4 RBS to anchors.

FA: R.Young & A.Prehn, 1985

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Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): Simon Carter

Date: 2019

ISBN: 9780958079082

The latest comprehensive, latest and greatest Blue Mountains Climbing Guide is here and it has more routes than you can poke a clip stick at! 3421 to be exact. You are not going to get bored.

Author(s): Simon Carter

Date: 2019

ISBN: 9780958079075

Simon Carter's "Best of the Blue" is the latest selected climbing guide book for the Blue Mountains and covers 1000 routes and 19 different climbing areas. For all the sport climbers out there, the travellers, or just anyone who doesn't want to lug around the big guide that's more than 3 times the size - cut out the riff-raff and get to the good stuff! This will pretty much cover everything you need!

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