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Cottage Boulder

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Description

Large "boulder" downhill from Hocus Pocus with a 30 degree overhung north-west side with several steep routes. These stay dry in most weather. Sun from around midday.

Access issues inherited from Blue Mountains

The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Do not cut flora and keep any tracks and infrastructure as minimal as possible.

Practically all crags are either in National Park or in council reserve: dog owners are reminded that dogs are not allowed in National Parks at any time and fines have been issued, while for crags on council reserve the BMCC leash law requires that dogs be on-leash.

Ethic inherited from Blue Mountains

Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs. If you do the bolts may be removed.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

If you have benefited from climbing infrastructure in NSW, please consider making a donation towards maintenance costs. The Sydney Rockclimbing Club Rebolting Fund finances the replacement of old bolts on existing climbs and the maintenance of other hardware such as fixed ropes and anchors. The SRC purchases hardware, such as bolts and glue, and distributes them to volunteer rebolters across the state of New South Wales. For more information, including donation details, visit https://sydneyrockies.org.au/rebolting/

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it.

However, the fast growing scrub can conceal walking tracks in mere months, making remote and less popular crags slightly more difficult and fun to navigate to. Some appropriately discreet pruning is a far better alternative then track braiding (which causes far more damage).

However, do so only on Council land and definitely not in the National Park. Remember, to maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Do not cut flora and keep any tracks and infrastructure as minimal as possible or risk possible closures.

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route

Left to right traverse of the north face along the horizontal break feature. Originally done in two pitches. The first is sport and finishes at hidden rap chain above Flaming Youth. The second is poorly protected trad and is rarely done.

FA: G.Bradbury & A.Penney, 1980

Starts for Disinclined for 2m then up groove and corner on left edge of wall. Don't underestimate the last couple of moves - it's steep!

FA: G.Bradbury, 1983

Disinclined traverse for 3 bolts then up the middle of the orange overhung wall skirting the edge of the grey rock up high. Finishes left through amazing steep jugs (shared finish with Freedom Day).

FA: G.Bradbury, 1991

Well chalked overhung route up right side of north face of boulder. At the half way height bail right onto arete (the direct finish is Leanings).

FA: I.Anger, 1980

Popular and dry pumper. Climb Flaming Youth then continue direct up the overhung wall to top of boulder.

FA: G.Bradbury & G.Weigand, 1982

Starts 11m right of Flaming Youth on sloping shelf 5m above ground. Up to holds, diagonally left to break, up to nasty PR. Finish up very easy grey slab. Two stars in the old guide but probably very dangerous.

FA: M.Law & G.Bradbury, 1979

Climb Abra Cadabra to break about 10m up, then left and up short orange wall past bolts to finish up easy grey slab.

FA: J.Smoothy & F.Lumsden, 1984

Wide crack 13m right of Flaming Youth. Take big cams including a #6. Climb crack to cave, right and up unprotected 10m++ arete to old bolt belay on top.

FA: J.Worrall & .Devereux, 1967

Small orange corner under roof 11m right of Abra Cadabra. Up to roof, left and up arete. Take care with pro.

FA: J.Friend, 1977

Start: 27m right of O. Opposite the main cliff.

FA: M.Law & L.Brady, 1978

Start: Right of C.

Start: Just left of the boulder descent route. Take care!

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