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Eternity Area

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Description

The area between The Executioner and The Bells of Rhymney. As a consequence of long term popularity, the erosion along the base from foot traffic is significant in places, and a number of medium-large boulders have been undermined and will probably soon collapse; caution advised. Better yet, why not pitch in with some trackwork to stabilise the base.

Access issues inherited from Blue Mountains

The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Do not cut flora and keep any tracks and infrastructure as minimal as possible.

Practically all crags are either in National Park or in council reserve: dog owners are reminded that dogs are not allowed in National Parks at any time and fines have been issued, while for crags on council reserve the BMCC leash law requires that dogs be on-leash.

Ethic inherited from Blue Mountains

Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs. If you do the bolts may be removed.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

If you have benefited from climbing infrastructure in NSW, please consider making a donation towards maintenance costs. The Sydney Rockclimbing Club Rebolting Fund finances the replacement of old bolts on existing climbs and the maintenance of other hardware such as fixed ropes and anchors. The SRC purchases hardware, such as bolts and glue, and distributes them to volunteer rebolters across the state of New South Wales. For more information, including donation details, visit https://sydneyrockies.org.au/rebolting/

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it.

However, the fast growing scrub can conceal walking tracks in mere months, making remote and less popular crags slightly more difficult and fun to navigate to. Some appropriately discreet pruning is a far better alternative then track braiding (which causes far more damage).

However, do so only on Council land and definitely not in the National Park. Remember, to maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Do not cut flora and keep any tracks and infrastructure as minimal as possible or risk possible closures.

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Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Start as for Joseph. Diagonally right to tree.

FA: W.Moon & B.Cameron, 1979

Great committing climbing on quality rock. Start as for Joseph, climb the original first pitch, instead of going left following crack line, head straight middle of the pillar. Find only gear. Then head left onto arete and up until on top of pillar. Rap off Vinyl Idl bolts.

FA: Lee Cossey, 2004

1 13 24m
2 14 22m

Start 1.5m left of the chimney (Valhalla).

  1. 24m (13) Up crack then left up corner to ledge. DBB rap anchors.

  2. 22m (14) Crack and corner.

FA: J Ewbank & E Saxby, 1964

The slab 2m left of Joseph. Up past 3 carrots to 2 ring bolts as for Joseph. Small cams in breaks. Head right to the crack at the intermediate ledge.

There is a much harder variant that heads left from the ledge up past two old rusty carrots.

FA: I Valenta & J Montgomery, 2002

The line of rusty carrots a few meters left of Joslab at the blunt arete.

FA: W.Payton, 1987

Start 4m left of Renegade.

FA: T.Sorenson & M.Law, 1979

Probably not worth doing, but it does sound like an adventure. Start 4m left of J. Scramble to wide scrubby crack.

  1. 21m (14) The flake. Looks like it would be much better after some gardening.

  2. 28m (14) L and up. Right to ledge. Take care!

FA: J.Ewbank & E.Saxby, 1964

A few moves up Eternity, then right and up long face. Old bolts that seem ok, but the high crux is a series of chipped pockets.

FA: M.Law & M.Stacey, 1987

One of the all-time classic routes of the region, if not Australia. Fantastic climbing up the searing crack on a stunning wall. Rap anchors on ledge at the top of the first pitch. Start at the base of the mega obvious crack.

  1. 22m (18) Blast up the crack, you won't get lost. This pitch is also known as Yorkshire Crack.

  2. 10m (23) A rarely repeated direct finish to the route goes straight over the overhang above the first belay, passing some old carrots en route.

FA: J Moore & J Ewbank, 1967

FFA: Michael Law, 1978

Start 6m left of Eternity.

FA: Unknown, 2000

The offwidth 8m L of Eternity with an undercut start. Thankfully it doesn't climb like an offwidth! Best to finish after 18m by stepping L to the SSCC3 rap anchor.

FA: J.Ewbank & K.Carter, 1965

Start 4m left of Pharoah, just L of the arete. Arete (small-med cams, ringbolt), then right at the level of the tree to join Pharoah. Best to finish after 18m by stepping L to the SSCC3 rap anchor.

FA: J.Worrall & R.Templeton, 1966

Rebolted Oct 2010, and loweroff added to eliminate the runout doddle finish (it's a 30m pitch if you continue past the new anchors to the top).

A slippery idea for a climb. As for SSCC1, but continue up the arete, onto easy ground (DRB). Best to lower off, but originally went to top of block, then arete behind.

FA: M Law & G Bradbury

Corner 2m left of SSCC1. Up corner through trees and continue up the corner behind the block above. 60m rope is fine for abseiling and lowering.

FA: J.Ewbank & J.Worrall, 1966

Roof above C.

FA: K.Carrigan, 1978

Take extra hand-size cams, plus a big cam for the top. The 2 bolt belay (carrots) is easily missed - look for them very close to where you top out.

FA: J.Ewbank & J.Worrall, 1966

Direct line above 1st half of Psychopath. Start as for Psychopath

FA: I Valenta & J Montgomery, 2002

  1. 18m (-) As for Psychopath to traverse. Left to arete and cave.

  2. 18m (15) Overhang on right. Up.

FA: J.Ewbank & J.Worrall (DS.M.Law), 1966

Start up Neurotic Direct Start and follow the line of rings. Reachy. A medium cam is useful between the first and second bolts.

FA: V. Peterson, 2006

Corner 4m left of N. Undercut start, then corner to cave (use high poor fixed pin and extra wires). Traverse left to ledge (poor piton + cams). Go left 2m up overhang (cam on left) and runout up wall to 2 carrot belay.

FA: J Ewbank & K Carter

Start as for the Phantom for 4m, left, then up to the end of the traverse.

FA: J.Smoothy & S.Moon, 1985

Start 0.5m left of P.

  1. 18m (16) Diagonally left and over roof. Right to arete and up to ledge.

  2. 10m (15) As for P.

FA: G.Weigand & R.Thompson, 1980

Start 4m left of ST. On the right wall of The Animal gully.

FA: J.Ewbank & J.Worrall, 1967

Retrobolted by the FA in Oct 2010 to make it a "classic sport route". Traverse R out of the gully (as for The Banshee) then up R side of arete (RBs), to lower-offs around on left.

FA: M.Law & Lyle Closs, 1979

Start as for The Banshee. Up the L side of the arete past carrots to lower offs. One of the rare routes around here that gets afternoon shade.

FA: G.Bradbury, 1985

Chimney system just right of Messiah's Exit. Enjoyable climbing that is mostly well protected (particularly if you sling the tree... twice). A cool outing for a hot summer day.

FA: Ewbank, Worrall, Quinlan, Carter & Smith, 1965

Starts on the left wall about 10m up the first pitch of The Animal. Tricky crack and roof.

FA: J.Ewbank, 1965

It is serious if done the original way. But if you skip the boulder problem start and finish up The Messiah's Exit, it is a well protected classic. Start 1m left of The Animal. Arete, splitter finger crack, then L up dirty runout headwall.

FA: J Ewbank & K Carter

The excellent finger crack of J into the excellent handcrack roof of ME. Lower offs added 26/5/2012.

Roof-capped corner 2.5m left of Judas.

  1. 15m (-) Corner to roof. Left (crawl) to nose and ledge.

  2. 24m (14) Wall on right.

FA: J.Ewbank & J.Davis, 1965

Bad fixed pro! Start 1m left of M.

FA: K.Carrigan, 1984

Jagged crack 6m left of Mortuary.

FA: J.Ewbank & J.Davis, 1965

FA: I Valenta & J Montgomery

Short steep corner above Avago.

FA: M.Law & C.Reece, 1977

Corner 4m left of A.

  1. 24m (14 M1) To roof, aid around lip and up.

  2. 18m (- M3) Aid, then free up wall. Keep right. Poor rock!

FA: B.Osbourne & R.Reynolds, 1967

Start 5m left again.

  1. 12m (21) Corner, left to arete. Mantle. Steep wall to ledge.

  2. 28m (-) Up to the right.

FFA: M & Law

FA: (Osbourne & Reynolds), 1967

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