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description

One of the all-time classic routes of the region, if not 'Australia'. 'Fantastic' climbing up the searing crack on a stunning wall. Rap anchors on ledge at the top of the first pitch.

Start: Start at the base of the mega obvious crack.

  1. 22m (18) Blast straight up the crack, jamming through a low crux. Follow the crack left to a rest, then back right to an awkward finish. This pitch is also known as Yorkshire Crack.

  2. 10m (23) A rarely repeated direct finish to the route goes straight over the overhang above the first belay, passing some old carrots en route.

© (secretary)

Route history

First ascent: J Moore (Pitch 2: J Ewbank 1967 & FFA: M Law 1978)

Warnings

Location

Lat/Lon: -33.60478, 150.25273

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Grade citation

18 Assigned grade
18 Nathan Poole
18 Blue Mountains Selected Climbing Areas
18 Blue Mountains Climbing
18 [18 - 18] grAId
19 OZ Rock
19 RockGUIDE: The Blue Mountains
20 Rockclimbs in the Upper Blue Mountains
23 *** ACA Route Register

ethic

Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs. If you do the bolts may be removed.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

If you have benefited from climbing infrastructure in NSW, please consider making a donation towards maintenance costs. The Sydney Rockclimbing Club Rebolting Fund finances the replacement of old bolts on existing climbs and the maintenance of other hardware such as fixed ropes and anchors. The SRC purchases hardware, such as bolts and glue, and distributes them to volunteer rebolters across the state of New South Wales. For more information, including donation details, visit https://sydneyrockies.org.au/rebolting/

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it.

However, the fast growing scrub can conceal walking tracks in mere months, making remote and less popular crags slightly more difficult and fun to navigate to. Some appropriately discreet pruning is a far better alternative then track braiding (which causes far more damage).

However, do so only on Council land and definitely not in the National Park. Remember, to maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Do not cut flora and keep any tracks and infrastructure as minimal as possible or risk possible closures.

inherited from Blue Mountains

Seasonality

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Seasonality

Quality

Mega Classic
Classic
Very Good
Good
Average
Don't Bother
Crap

Overall quality 91 from 541 ratings.

Tick Types

Onsight 222
Flash 45
Red point 115
Solo 2
Tick 198
Pink point 9
Top rope 100
Attempt 58
Target 22

Comment keywords

tough strenuous solid difficult pumped crux hard sweat desperate struggle sustained classic perfect brilliant awesome super incredible beautiful fun cool nice great amazing sweet rad magic superb stoked fabulous good exciting enjoyable fantastic lovely smooth epic interesting cruisy face flake balancy feet rest undercling technical easy bad vertical fingers fist crack slippery layback jugs hands dodgy jamming short tricky fall intimidating scary unnerving

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