Help

description

One of the all-time classic routes of the region, if not Australia. Fantastic climbing up the searing crack on a stunning wall. Rap anchors on ledge at the top of the first pitch. Start at the base of the mega obvious crack.

  1. 22m (18) Blast up the crack, you won't get lost. This pitch is also known as Yorkshire Crack.

  2. 10m (23) A rarely repeated direct finish to the route goes straight over the overhang above the first belay, passing some old carrots en route.

© (secretary)

Route history

1967First ascent: J Moore & J Ewbank

Alt pitches

1978First free ascent: Michael Law

Warnings

Location

Lat/Lon: -33.60478, 150.25273

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Grade citation

18 Assigned grade
18 Blue Mountains Climbing
18 Blue Mountains Selected Climbing Areas
18 Nathan Poole
18 [18 - 18] grAId
19 OZ Rock
19 RockGUIDE: The Blue Mountains
20 Rockclimbs in the Upper Blue Mountains
23 *** ACA Route Register

ethic

Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs. If you do the bolts may be removed.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

If you have benefited from climbing infrastructure in NSW, please consider making a donation towards maintenance costs. The Sydney Rockclimbing Club Rebolting Fund finances the replacement of old bolts on existing climbs and the maintenance of other hardware such as fixed ropes and anchors. The SRC purchases hardware, such as bolts and glue, and distributes them to volunteer rebolters across the state of New South Wales. For more information, including donation details, visit https://sydneyrockies.org.au/rebolting/

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it.

However, the fast growing scrub can conceal walking tracks in mere months, making remote and less popular crags slightly more difficult and fun to navigate to. Some appropriately discreet pruning is a far better alternative then track braiding (which causes far more damage).

However, do so only on Council land and definitely not in the National Park. Remember, to maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Do not cut flora and keep any tracks and infrastructure as minimal as possible or risk possible closures.

inherited from Blue Mountains

Seasonality

J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D

Seasonality

Quality

Mega Classic
Classic
Very Good
Good
Average
Don't Bother
Crap

Overall quality 91 from 583 ratings.

Tick Types

Onsight 234
Flash 46
Solo 1
Red point 132
Tick 201
Pink point 13
Top rope 105
Attempt 62
Target 22

Comment keywords

crack epic undercling balancy slippery jamming easy fist hands smooth fingers interesting flake vertical rest jugs dodgy feet technical cruisy bad layback face short rad amazing cool lovely incredible perfect fantastic great superb exciting fun stoked fabulous magic good classic enjoyable nice super awesome beautiful brilliant sweet solid tough crux sustained pumped struggle strenuous sweat desperate hard difficult scary unnerving tricky fall committing intimidating

Photos Browse all photos

Upload a photo of route

Activity

Deutsch English Español Français Italiano 한국어 Português 中文