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1 17 15m
2 17 15m
3 23m

description

Starts at the obvious layback flake 4m left of On Edge. Most link pitch 1 & 2 and forego the final pitch, descending via lowers or onto ledge and sketchy traverse right (use a rope) to rap anchors on Angular crack.

  1. 15m (17) Up sustained layback flake (big cams) to ledge (most link straight into 2nd pitch)

  2. 15m (17) From ledge head right and up obvious crack through rooflet to lower-offs or onto ledge and carrot belay

  3. 23m (??) Rarely done chimney pitch off to the left.

Lower-offs and new belay carrots added 2016.

© (mjw)

Route history

1964First ascent: J Ewbank & E Saxby

Warnings

Location

Lat/Lon: -33.60420, 150.25317

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Grade citation

17,17, Assigned grade
17 OZ Rock
17 Rockclimbs in the Upper Blue Mountains
17 Nathan Poole
18 [17 - 18] ++ grAId

ethic

Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs. If you do the bolts may be removed.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

If you have benefited from climbing infrastructure in NSW, please consider making a donation towards maintenance costs. The Sydney Rockclimbing Club Rebolting Fund finances the replacement of old bolts on existing climbs and the maintenance of other hardware such as fixed ropes and anchors. The SRC purchases hardware, such as bolts and glue, and distributes them to volunteer rebolters across the state of New South Wales. For more information, including donation details, visit https://sydneyrockies.org.au/rebolting/

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it.

However, the fast growing scrub can conceal walking tracks in mere months, making remote and less popular crags slightly more difficult and fun to navigate to. Some appropriately discreet pruning is a far better alternative then track braiding (which causes far more damage).

However, do so only on Council land and definitely not in the National Park. Remember, to maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Do not cut flora and keep any tracks and infrastructure as minimal as possible or risk possible closures.

inherited from Blue Mountains

Seasonality

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Seasonality

Quality

Mega Classic
Classic
Very Good
Good
Average
Don't Bother
Crap

Overall quality 85 from 540 ratings.

Difficulty - 17

Soft Touch
Easy
Average
Hard
Sandbag

Based on 2 ratings.

Suggested Grade

17
18

Based on 2 ratings.

Tick Types

Onsight 239
Flash 36
Red point 89
Solo 1
Tick 249
Pink point 11
Top rope 69
Attempt 43
Target 14

Comment keywords

classy cool perfect enjoyable exciting lovely beautiful nice brilliant sweet superb classic great fantastic good awesome stoked amazing super satisfying fun intimidating ground fall unnerving exposed committing fall terrifying scary runout tricky crazy layback jamming traverse dry offwidth polished feet interesting roof lip flake vertical rest fist hands jugs easy slippery awkward fingers face cruisy mantle weird crack short chimney steep crux tough desperate hard pumped sustained tired powerful strenuous solid challenging

Selected Guidebooks all

Author(s): Simon Carter

Date: 2019

ISBN: 9780958079082

The latest comprehensive, latest and greatest Blue Mountains Climbing Guide is here and it has more routes than you can poke a clip stick at! 3421 to be exact. You are not going to get bored.

Author(s): Simon Carter

Date: 2019

ISBN: 9780958079075

Simon Carter's "Best of the Blue" is the latest selected climbing guide book for the Blue Mountains and covers 1000 routes and 19 different climbing areas. For all the sport climbers out there, the travellers, or just anyone who doesn't want to lug around the big guide that's more than 3 times the size - cut out the riff-raff and get to the good stuff! This will pretty much cover everything you need!

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