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The Right Hand End

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Description

Micro sports routes on slabs and features. A great area for beginner leaders and kids.

Access issues inherited from The Soft Parade

Climbing and camp ground was temporarily closed in this area for much of 2020 to allow bushfire vegetation recovery and reconstruction of damaged tracks, toilet block and tin hut. The BMCC reopened New York and Soft Parade to climbing on 5/12/2020. The area remains highly fragile after the fires - with erosion being a particular problem.

Ethic inherited from Blue Mountains

Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs. If you do the bolts may be removed.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

If you have benefited from climbing infrastructure in NSW, please consider making a donation towards maintenance costs. The Sydney Rockclimbing Club Rebolting Fund finances the replacement of old bolts on existing climbs and the maintenance of other hardware such as fixed ropes and anchors. The SRC purchases hardware, such as bolts and glue, and distributes them to volunteer rebolters across the state of New South Wales. For more information, including donation details, visit https://sydneyrockies.org.au/rebolting/

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it.

However, the fast growing scrub can conceal walking tracks in mere months, making remote and less popular crags slightly more difficult and fun to navigate to. Some appropriately discreet pruning is a far better alternative then track braiding (which causes far more damage).

However, do so only on Council land and definitely not in the National Park. Remember, to maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Do not cut flora and keep any tracks and infrastructure as minimal as possible or risk possible closures.

Tags

Routes

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Grade Route

Bolted L side of arête just R of descent gully.

Set: B Jung, 2013

FA: S Puchala, Aug 2013

Up to 2nd bolt, move left to arete and follow to lower-offs. A direct finish following the bolts is harder than the grade 11 or 12.

Set: B Jung

FA: B Jung, Mar 2013

Set: B Jung

FA: B Jung, Aug 2013

Short buttress with undercut start

Set: B Jung

FA: J Reay, 2012

Short slab crack with lower off. Great training ground for fledgling trad leads.

Set: B Jung

FA: M Warren, Jul 2012

Up the slab.

Set: B Jung

FA: S Puchala, 16 Sep 2012

Up the slab just to the right of ASAP.

Set: B Jung

FA: S Puchala, 16 Sep 2012

A few metres right of Prompt Delivery.

Set: B Jung

FA: M Warren, Oct 2012

Up the middle of the slab.

Set: B Jung

FA: B Jung, 1 Jul 2012

3m right of Devious Diversions.

Set: B Jung

FA: J Reay, 22 Jul 2012

1m left of SC. Start up past blocks moving right to crack. (needs ddb on top)

FA: A.Batey, 15 Mar 2013

Up slab left of Honk On.

FA: J Reay, 22 Jul 2012

Up the flake - bridge, layback, jamb - take your pick!

Set: B Jung

FA: J Reay, Aug 2012

Right side of Honk On. Shares the same rings and top anchors. Instead of the crack, climb the face to the right of it.

Set: Barry Jung, 2012

FA: S Puchala, 2012

Face 2m right of Honk On.

Set: B Jung

FA: J Reay, Aug 2012

Head left after first ring

(Training DBB below).

Set: B Jung

FA: S Puchala, 11 Oct 2012

Right hand route on the wall.

Start on the right hand edge of the block.

Set: B Jung

FA: George Kiji Muraoka, 4 Nov 2012

Stays just left of the arête. Careful belay for the last clip.

Set: S Puchala

FA: S Puchala, 11 Oct 2012

The wall a meter or so right of arete.

Set: B Jung

FA: M. Warren, Jan 2013

About 2 meters right of the arête.

Set: B Jung

FA: S Peters, 2016

Chimney the trench (Get in from underneath and stay in the trench).

Set: S Puchala

FA: S Puchala, 3 Feb 2013

Face and arete on a buttress 10m right of Visions Fade.

Set: B Jung

FA: M Warren, Nov 2012

Line of RB's to DBB left of SF's arête.

FA: Sophie Kobock

Set: B Jung, 2017

Corner and arête.

Set: B Jung

FA: M Warren, Nov 2012

Slab right of Sensitive Freight.

Set: B Jung

FA: M Warren, 2012

Has two sets of anchors. Only grade 10 to first set.

Set: B Jung

FA: B Jung, Nov 2012

Set: B Jung

FA: B Jung, Nov 2012

20m right of The Last of the Jelly Beans. (Can be done as multi pitch).

Set: B Jung

FA: B Jung & J Reay, Apr 2013

10m right of Upstairs Downstairs. Start: On top of boulder.

Set: B Jung

FA: B Jung, Apr 2013

Set: B Jung, 2013

FA: J Reay, Aug 2013

Set: B Jung, 2013

FA: S Puchala, 18 Aug 2013

Slab (Can be done as multi pitch).

Set: B Jung

FA: B Jung, Apr 2013

Corner crack start (Can be done as multi pitch).

Set: B Jump

FA: B. Jung, 2014

Has belay ring.

Set: B Jung

FA: M Amos

First climb after alcove.

Set: B Jung

FA: B. Jung, 2014

Set: B Jung

FA: B Jung, Jul 2013

Corner crack to start then right onto face. Continue around the arête then up.

Set: B Jung

FA: S. Bell, Nov 2014

Start off block on right side of arête.

Set: B Jung, 2013

FA: S Puchala, 21 Jul 2013

Three pitches, including a heady rightward traverse on good feet and non-existent hands.

P1. Start on block as for CCLM. Step across to wall and climb right side of arete. Head right on ledge to main wall and belay. 7 rings.

P2. Traverse right on lip of overhang. Balance-y and a little scary! 6 rings

P3. Step right to corner and climb up to final belay.

Descent: 60m easily reached the ground from top belay

Set: Barry Jung, Jun 2019

FA: Ian Buffington & Klaudia Pyc, Jun 2019

Gully. Better than it looks. Belay off dodgy tree. Anchor will be provided one day.

FA: S Puchala, 26 Dec 2012

Climb the chimney, outside or the inside (you pick your poison).

For Mita. Steep jugs.

Set: B Jung, 2017

FA: S Puchala, 29 Oct 2017

Up wall then right. Up wall then left.

FA: Barry Jung, Jun 2017

Barry stuck with it and fought for this one. Took quite a few falls at the top. (At like, pushing 80yo).

FA: B Jung, Oct 2013

Set: B Jung, Oct 2013

Set: Barry Jung

FA: Luke C, 1 Jun 2019

Set: B Jung

FA: S Puchala, 2016

In the memory of our buddy Graham Smith.

And Yes, there is a sweet spot to it!

Set: Barry Jung, Luke C & Nikhilesh Sharma

FA: Julian Woodward, 10 Feb 2018

As in Ooomphf...

Set: Barry Jung

FA: Roman, 6 May 2017

Up the flake, around the block however you please, and then up the perfect layback crack to a mantle. Double ring belay over the top

FA: K Magyar, 2013

Set: B Jung

FA: S Puchala, 2016

For all those of us who wont put down our outdoor gear. Bring out your Johnny Dawes slab shoes and moves. Bolted by Barry and climbed by MattB after permission from Barry. A sneaky high L hand hold and rock over is the key to this route and then dance your way to the top. Still a little dirty towards the top but the route eases off.

Set: Barry Jung, 2013

FA: Matt Brooks, 13 Apr 2014

Linkup between The Quality of Mercy and Ageing Gracefully. Start up The Quality of Mercy through to the fourth bolt then up around the vegetated ledge to finish on the last bolt and anchor of Ageing Gracefully. The harder moves are well protected but not being an intended route the easier ground is run out.

FFA: Demetrius, 28 Jan 2018

Start on the short arête, gain the ledge and traverse right into A Pound Of Flesh (Extra points if you recognize the link between the names). Originally known as Fast-Forward. Grade is up for review

Set: Barry Jung

FFA: Demetrius, 3 Sep 2017

Cruxy start straight up to the anchors. Sharp pockets may extract their pound. Originally known as Rewind. First ascent was direct to the first bolt but I believe earlier attempts started further right. The grade is up for review.

Set: Barry Jung

FFA: Demetrius, 3 Sep 2017

FA: 3 Sep 2017

Left leaning flake corner.

FA: M Warren, 2013

Given there is an anchor at top this must have been climbed? No doubt projected? Its excellent! The thin seam leading to small corner 10m right of "I've Sent Sent Your Saddle Home". Very well protected on c3's and small wires, with a bunch of small cams, an obvious #4 and a 0.5 at the top being the two largest cams. Funky top out to two bolts. A lot of cleaning required then a back to back send. Its kinda hard for a bit..like really..but on bomber gear.

There's a trick to it.

Set: B Jung

FA: S Puchala, 2016

Up to the roof that projects like a "Skater's Cap", hand traverse right and up to lower-offs.

Set: B Jung

FA: S Peters, 2016

Trends left.

Set: B & B Jung

FA: B. Jung, 2014

Set: B Jung

FA: B Jung, 2016

Corner.

Set: M Warren

FA: M Warren, 2013

Set: B Jung

FA: J Jackson, 2013

Climb the right side of the arete. Give up climbing if you can't guess the story behind the name.

Set: Barry Jung

FA: Barry Jung, Feb 2019

Up wall, traverse right, then up to finish.

FA: Georgia Reagan, Jul 2017

Climb out route for alternative track. Last climb at crag. You can walk in and abseil above this route. Rings in boulder.

Set: B Jung

FA: B Jung, 2016

This cliff is unlocated

If you know where this cliff is then please take a minute to locate it for the climbing community. contact us if you have any issues.

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