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The Middle

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Description

To the right as you come out of the descent gully.

Access issues inherited from The Soft Parade

Climbing and camp ground was temporarily closed in this area for much of 2020 to allow bushfire vegetation recovery and reconstruction of damaged tracks, toilet block and tin hut. The BMCC reopened New York and Soft Parade to climbing on 5/12/2020 (but note Mt York itself still closed).

Ethic inherited from Blue Mountains

Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs. If you do the bolts may be removed.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

If you have benefited from climbing infrastructure in NSW, please consider making a donation towards maintenance costs. The Sydney Rockclimbing Club Rebolting Fund finances the replacement of old bolts on existing climbs and the maintenance of other hardware such as fixed ropes and anchors. The SRC purchases hardware, such as bolts and glue, and distributes them to volunteer rebolters across the state of New South Wales. For more information, including donation details, visit https://sydneyrockies.org.au/rebolting/

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it.

However, the fast growing scrub can conceal walking tracks in mere months, making remote and less popular crags slightly more difficult and fun to navigate to. Some appropriately discreet pruning is a far better alternative then track braiding (which causes far more damage).

However, do so only on Council land and definitely not in the National Park. Remember, to maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Do not cut flora and keep any tracks and infrastructure as minimal as possible or risk possible closures.

Tags

Routes

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Grade Route

The climb on the free standing pillar. Take 12 draws.

Start on the big block to the right, hand traverse on the crimp rail to the left arete. Put up a good fight to stand on top of the pillar. Walk 2m to the left and bridge on to the headwall. Tricky but comparatively easier moves guard the exit.

Set by Barry Jung

FA: Nikhilesh Sharma, Greg Blachon & Luke C, 1 Dec 2019

Left on the Juggy Wall

Set by B Jung

FA: S Puchala, 13 May 2012

Start at a sandy flake left of the cave.

Set by S Puchala

FA: S Puchala, 13 May 2012

Start on block right of Dirty Nuns with Chewing Gum, Up and diagonally left to blunt arete.

Set by S Puchala

FA: S Puchala & I thought this may have been 17 as FA. Happy yo update on consensus., 2012

To the right of the arete.

Set by S Puchala

FA: S Puchala, 6 May 2012

Right of Lazy Lizards

Set by S Puchala

FA: S Puchala, 6 May 2012

Companion route to the right of A Soft Touch

FA: Set by B Jung, FA: S Smith & J Crass, 16 Apr 2017

Start 8m right of A Soft Touch on next buttress. Up bulging slab with belay bolt at base of climb

Set by B Jung

FA: J Allwood, 2015

Delicate slab.

FA: Tim Clarkson, 17 Aug 2017

Follow the flake.

15m right of the block.

Set by B Jung

FA: S Puchala, 16 Sep 2012

Short wall 2m right of Avian Antics.

Set by B Jung

FA: J McCullogh, Aug 2012

Juggy arete.

Set by B Jung

FA: S Puchala, 16 Sep 2012

Left hand route on the Kid's Slab just right of the arete.

Set by B Jung

FA: J Reay, Sep 2012

Right hand route on Kid's Slab

(Training Ring to Right).

Set by B Jung

FA: B Jung, Sep 2012

Line of carrots above the "test" lower-offs

Set by Barry Jung, 2017

FA: Barry Jung, 2017

First climb on the right of the descent gully.

Josie climbs her age on her first project.

Set by B Jung

FA: Josie McCullogh, 22 Sep 2012

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