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The Left Hand End

9

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Description

Easy trad area. Be prepared for loose rocks, belayers should wear a helmet. Lower offs can be difficult to locate.

Access issues inherited from The Soft Parade

Climbing and camp ground was temporarily closed in this area for much of 2020 to allow bushfire vegetation recovery and reconstruction of damaged tracks, toilet block and tin hut. The BMCC reopened New York and Soft Parade to climbing on 5/12/2020 (but note Mt York itself still closed).

Approach

Walk past the Middle to get there.

Ethic inherited from Blue Mountains

Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs. If you do the bolts may be removed.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

If you have benefited from climbing infrastructure in NSW, please consider making a donation towards maintenance costs. The Sydney Rockclimbing Club Rebolting Fund finances the replacement of old bolts on existing climbs and the maintenance of other hardware such as fixed ropes and anchors. The SRC purchases hardware, such as bolts and glue, and distributes them to volunteer rebolters across the state of New South Wales. For more information, including donation details, visit https://sydneyrockies.org.au/rebolting/

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it.

However, the fast growing scrub can conceal walking tracks in mere months, making remote and less popular crags slightly more difficult and fun to navigate to. Some appropriately discreet pruning is a far better alternative then track braiding (which causes far more damage).

However, do so only on Council land and definitely not in the National Park. Remember, to maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Do not cut flora and keep any tracks and infrastructure as minimal as possible or risk possible closures.

Tags

Routes

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Grade Route

Layback crack on small ledge above track 5m left of the crack with the tree in it.

Set by M Warren

FA: Julia Booth, Apr 2012

Crack with large tree. Take lefthand exit into corner.

FA: S Squires

Wide flake and fist crack.

Set by M Warren

FA: M Warren, 2012

Up the finger crack and then around and onto the slab, staying out of the corners. Run out at the finish.

FA: James Bultitude, 13 Oct 2013

Up the wide crack the the right of Fever Dreams. Traverse to the tree on the right to lower off or exit via the slab of Fever Dreams

FA: James Bultitude, 13 Oct 2013

Right leaning diagonal finger crack.

Set by M Warren

FA: Natalia Frazier, Apr 2012

Flaring offwidth 5m right of Sexo, Drogos y Rocas. BIG gear needed.

Set by M Warren

FA: M Warren, Apr 2012

Twin finger crack right of Mr Mean Mouth.

Set by M Warren

FA: M Warren, Apr 2012

Easy corner cracks. Take left hand exit.

Set by M Warren

FA: M Warren, 13 May 2012

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Activity

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