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Little River Mostly Sport climbing 23 routes in crag

23
AU
151719212325

Seasonality

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Summary

A unique feature of this crag is the likelihood you will have it all to yourself.

Description

An old crag rediscovered, nestled in a bend on the upper Grose River, a nice summer morning or winter afternoons crag. With the exception of a few mixed climbs, routes are predominantly sport bolted with rings , fh's, U's and many carrots also. Bring bolt plates and a light rack to make the most of the crag.

A lot of routes feature loose rock, be careful what you pull on and stand on. Helmets definitely advised!

Access issues

This is within Blue Mountains National Park, no dogs.

Approach

10min Drive from Blackheath. 45min walk from Mt Vic Train Station. Crag is15/20 min walk from car. Turn off highway into Victoria Falls Rd, Mt Victoria. 2wd fine. From NPWS boundary gate continue 800mtr then at crest of white hill take left turn. This turns back for 100mtrs then park in clearing at faint 3way intersection. Please dont block main road heading downhill as this is a powerline access trail. . Walk downhill on access trail for 150mtrs where there is a small cairn of rocks on right

Follow small trail for approx 20mtr bearing left as it joins disused overgrown firetrail leading down hill. Continue down this until it peters out, then follow faint trail and stone cairns for another 5 minutes until spur becomes apparent. Keep an eye open for snakes as crag is near water. Handrail right side of spur on faint trail leading down between two ribs of rock. Follow base of cliff upstream. First routes (Henryk Manouvre) are located approx 50mtrs along base.

Where to stay

Camp at Mt York or at the end of Victoria Falls Rd.

Ethic

Please make the effort to head back up the hill away from the creek to bury your business.

History

View historical timeline

Besides the recent 2012/13 additions the previous 10 routes are so far unknown. Look forward to updating this.

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Contents

Routes

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Grade Route

Routes from left to right facing in.

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2
15 ★ The Henryk Manoeuvre Sport 20m, 9

Line of rings to lower off left of corner, crux is first moves past bolt.

FFA: Unknown

3
17 ★ One Move Wonder Sport 20m

A line of rings right of corner above big boulder. Start as per CC, up to nice and shiny chain lower offs (courtesy of Henryk

FFA: Unknown

4
17 ★ Cool Change Sport 25m, 8

Line of rings furthest R. A great route with no particular crux, up to chain lower offs.

FFA: Unknown

The next four routes are located on large red wall capped by roof.

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6
20 ★★ Fully Fernished Sport 25m, 16

Start same as TotSoD then head left at 3rd bolt. You will need 14 quickdraws. 16 if you intend to toprope. Enjoy (Mind the large chossy flake right before the anchors).

FFA: Evan Wells

7
21 ★ Trevally of the Shadow of Death Sport 23m, 9

Stick clip u bolt then up. Be solid at the grade as there are heady moments with big fall potential , though the top third (crux) is great.

FFA: E Wells, 19 Mar 2013

8
20 ★ Sunny War Sport 25m, 12

Stickclip first bolt. Up line of U's past scoops and breaks to a chossy mantle then straight through centre of scoop and up face.

FFA: E. Wells, 20 May 2014

9
18 ★ Scrabble Nerds Sport 23m, 10

Stickclip first bolt. Climbs grey rock finishing right of rooflet. The block is not going anywhere! Consider placing an extended draw at 4th bolt to avoid rope entering water groove. A heady clip at steep section using good holds near bolt, if your short get someone else to hang the draws.

FFA: E Wells, 13 Jun 2013

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10
22 ★ Everyones Cup of Tea Mixed trad 25m, 10

Choss! Used to be a tad runout up high , since been softened. Mixed route (Camalots #3 & #0.5). Stickclip RB, pull through pockets, awkward mantle and reachy up to cam placements on right, then FH's up slab to sweet arete and lower offs. Three extra bolts added 2014 so route name is almost irrelevant.

FFA: E Wells, 5 Mar 2013

11
25 ★★★ Unchain my Sneart Mixed trad 25m, 7

Through pockets and move at U bolt 5m R of ECOT. Then Cams (#0.4 , #0.5 , #0.75 , #3) to line of hangers and RB , staying in the orange rock and finishing at Ecot lower off. Hard cruxes with a nice jug in the middle.

FFA: E. Wells, 2 Aug 2014

Main Wall Back to contents

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13
23 ★★ Rubber Dingy Rapids Sport 22m, 9

Batman to u-bolt then up committing slab and thin flakes held on by a significant quantity of glue. Good fun.

FFA: E Wells, 1 Jun 2013

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14
19 ★★ Little River Snooze Mixed trad 24m, 8

A commiting lead. Up slab staying right of large orange flake past horizontal (large wire or cam) through orange rock to lower offs. Take 5 bolt plates and a large wire.

FFA: E Wells, 1 Jun 2013

15
?? Sport

line of carrots to top out on main wall

16
21 ★★ ??? Sport 30m

next line of carrots finishing up small corner to top out.

17
24 ★ Firebird Sport 30m, 13

Same start as GTS for three BR's then slightly left and up past two more BR's and 2 FH's into line of rings and steep stellar rock.Awesome sequences! Bring 5 bolt plates.

FFA: E. Wells, 20 May 2014

18
22 ★ Glue Tube Sensation Sport 30m, 15

Climb past four BR then into line of rings, oozing up into a roof then good edges up a headwall to sneaky crimps and pocket. Finishing jugs at top. Definately a soft touch and overbolted too. Take 4 bolt plates and 15 draws.

FFA: E. Wells, 20 May 2014

19
?/ Sport

A few carrots on far right of main wall.

'Islamic Flamingos' can be found on a seperate buttress of rock behind Boulder. Or head down the hill before the boulder to 'Drone Powder' and 'Lina Patina'

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21
23 ★★ Islamic Flamingos Sport 20m, 8

Far right behind big boulder. Up hanging arette to steep wall. Nice.

FFA: E Wells, 16 Feb 2013

Then down hill 20mtr to boulder. These two routes get sun earlier than others. (11am in winter)

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23
22 ★★ Drone Powder Sport 15m, 7

Left side of boulder up face to large features, crux and lower off.

FFA: E Wells, 29 Jun 2013

24
19 ★★ Lina Patina Sport 15m, 8

Steepest climb here. Right side of boulder. Campus start crux. Trends left. Quiet the swing when cleaning. Can get first draw from ground.

FFA: E Wells, 4 Jul 2013

Cross creek over one of a few convenient fallen trees. bring bolt plates and light rack. Routes top out and are very short.

26
17 ★ The Arete Trad 14m

Arete on other side of creek. Cool moves on both sides of it. 3 carrots and two cam placements. Up to some old chain lower off.

27
2 Sport

face right of arete

28
3 Trad

up corner crack for a while then face

29
4 Trad

corner crack

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Nearby Icons

15 ★ The Henryk Manoeuvre
17 ★ One Move Wonder
20 ★★ Fully Fernished
25 ★★★ Unchain my Sneart

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Henryk on ★ One Move Wonder 17 - P1000480.jpg

Adam on ★ The Arete 17 - P1000619.jpg

Laef Hosking on ★ One Move Wonder 17 - One Move Wonder.jpg

Marcia on ★ The Henryk Manoeuvre 15 - P1000451.jpg

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