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Engineering XXXX

  • Grade context: AU
  • Ascents: 14
7

Seasonality

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Description

An area past xxxx and up from engineers cascade, has a few problems, less sharp and more fun than xxxx. Has easier grades with a couple harder ones. This area is still under development and has many more lines to be climbed/ cleaned and sent!

Access issues inherited from Blue Mountains

The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Do not cut flora and keep any tracks and infrastructure as minimal as possible.

Practically all crags are either in National Park or in council reserve: dog owners are reminded that dogs are not allowed in National Parks at any time and fines have been issued, while for crags on council reserve the BMCC leash law requires that dogs be on-leash.

Approach

Park as for Engineers, walk down the fire trail walking left ( facing the valley ) until you start heading down to Engineers Cascade. Where the wire fence is step over it and follow this track down, when you get to a old cut stump down the bottom turn left into there, the first cave you come to has Screaming On Mute with a couple of other scattered boulders around.

Ethic inherited from Blue Mountains

Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs. If you do the bolts may be removed.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

If you have benefited from climbing infrastructure in NSW, please consider making a donation towards maintenance costs. The Sydney Rockclimbing Club Rebolting Fund finances the replacement of old bolts on existing climbs and the maintenance of other hardware such as fixed ropes and anchors. The SRC purchases hardware, such as bolts and glue, and distributes them to volunteer rebolters across the state of New South Wales. For more information, including donation details, visit https://sydneyrockies.org.au/rebolting/

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it.

However, the fast growing scrub can conceal walking tracks in mere months, making remote and less popular crags slightly more difficult and fun to navigate to. Some appropriately discreet pruning is a far better alternative then track braiding (which causes far more damage).

However, do so only on Council land and definitely not in the National Park. Remember, to maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Do not cut flora and keep any tracks and infrastructure as minimal as possible or risk possible closures.

History

History timeline chart

Started off with the one boulder - Screaming On Mute, whilst waiting for the crack to dry out other problems just started going up. The rest is history! It's a no brainer!!

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Routes

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THE CRAG CLASSIC, Stunning fist size crack coming from underneath the cave with amazing seams and slopers to top out on.

Set: nathaniel glavurdic, 15 Sep 2020

FFA: nathaniel glavurdic, 16 Nov 2020

To the left of screaming on mute, hang start off sloper rail, trend right through pockets and mantle up with slopers to finish.

FFA: Art Ho Bayly, Sep 2020

Around the corner (left facing the cliff), the most direct line straight up next to the arete.

FFA: nathaniel glavurdic, Sep 2020

The blank slab in the middle of the wall next to ever ready, will be a stunner once the moves are unlocked.

Set: nathaniel glavurdic, Sep 2020

Start up the corner slab upto the rooflet and climb right out up slots and delicate feet.

From the obvious rail near the dihedral highball you traverse right along until you nearly Fantastic 4 start. GgGreat warm up both ways and can be done with feet lower for an easier option.

FA: nathaniel glavurdic, Sep 2020

From Screaming On Mute looking upstream is another boulder with a sit start undercling. Uulp and left out through jugs and mantle, consensus is it's not quite v4 but harder than v3.

FA: nathaniel glavurdic, Sep 2020

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