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Summary

NOTE: As of January 2021, all areas of Mount York (including camping) are now open!

Access issues inherited from Blue Mountains

The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Do not cut flora and keep any tracks and infrastructure as minimal as possible.

Practically all crags are either in National Park or in council reserve: dog owners are reminded that dogs are not allowed in National Parks at any time and fines have been issued, while for crags on council reserve the BMCC leash law requires that dogs be on-leash.

Ethic inherited from Mount York

Many and varied, please try to respect them all!

Retro-bolting has occurred several times over the years and is generally condemned and dealt with swiftly.

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route

Vegetated corner crack

FA: W.Williams & H.Luxford, 1976

Start: Marked.

FA: G.Hill & S.Bullen, 1983

FA: G.Bradbury, 1980

Undercut start through steep stuff around the left side of the Aunty Jack wall. Carrots (first with fixed hanger) and small wires.

Traverse out to arete from start of Aunty Jack.

FA: R.Vining, 1974

Traverse left as for start of aunty jack. Continue further left to line of carrots and up. Avoid going to the arete to keep the grade.

FA: J.Smoothy, 2000

Classic. Take a full rack with heaps of wires. Lower-offs were added, then chopped, and are still absent as at Oct 2015.

Traverse left past single carrot to crack/flake. Climb directly up along the yellow rock to top. Belay in back of cave in pockets.

FA: Ross Vining + ?, 1974

Start as for Aunty Jack then straight up past bolts (take brackets) & gear. Has a good independent finish despite what the guide says. Much more sustained than Aunty Jack.

FA: G.Loins, 1986

Very hard start. Up the rusty carrots.

FA: R.Weigand & S.Knight, 1982

Ringbolts just left of corner to lower-off's. Hard start, then steady going.

FA: A. Penny, 1988

Cliff splitter!! Gear up accordingly.

FA: JSP/FR

Traverse left from Peppercorner to Red Robin and then up the arete

FA: R.Vining & B.Blunt, 1974

FA: G.Clark, 1983

Pleasant arete. Most people start 1m R of the arête for a few metres, then move left. The gear is in some opinions "good, but spaced", but in others' opinions this route is quite dangerous to half height particularly now that the wire slots are getting worn thanks to the soft rock. Take a rack including a 4 Friend, and a bolt plate in case Rattler's top carrot looks tempting.

FA: R.Vining, W.Williams & J.Lorinez, 1974

FA: B.Evans, S.Bunton & G.de Lacy, 1984

FA: A.Prehn, G.Hill & J.Muir, 1980

FA: S.Knight, R.Weigand & J.Smoothy, 1982

FA: S.Bullen, 1984

Get here early for this one.

FA: J Lorinez, W Williams & B Blunt

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Activity

Check out what is happening in Auntie Jack Area.

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