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Summary

NOTE: As of January 2021, all areas of Mount York (including camping) are now open!

Access issues inherited from Blue Mountains

The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Do not cut flora and keep any tracks and infrastructure as minimal as possible.

Practically all crags are either in National Park or in council reserve: dog owners are reminded that dogs are not allowed in National Parks at any time and fines have been issued, while for crags on council reserve the BMCC leash law requires that dogs be on-leash.

Ethic inherited from Mount York

Many and varied, please try to respect them all!

Retro-bolting has occurred several times over the years and is generally condemned and dealt with swiftly.

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route

Obvious crack with overhangs. Start at left side of alcove. Trad gear. Rap off DRBB or continue up P2 of Moonlighting the Renovations on carrots to top of cliff and DRBB.

FA: W. Williams & K. Melville, 2009

The left most route on the recessed face, equipped with carrots and fixed hangers. The top pitch is steep and in a very good position.

FA: J Gaibor, 2004

Line of carrots right of MTR, with lower offs at lip of ledge. Can also be done easily on gear but needs a #5 or 6 BD.

FA: C O'Leary, 2004

  1. Line of rings up slab to DRBB.

  2. Line of rings up orange wall to DRBB lower-offs.

FA: J. Gaibor, 2004

Up chimney/corner, rightwards to shallow corner and up to tree. Through the tunnel to top.

Start: Chimney/corner about 55m right of CA.

FA: J.Smoothy, 1982

Start: Left of the flake.

Flake 5m R of CW.

FA: A.Prehn & R.Young, 1982

Start: Bolts 3m right of YD. This route is now unclimbable due to tree growing next to wall.

FA: A.Prehn, 1988

Prominent slanting hand crack on head wall. Start: 3m right at short corner crack.

FA: J.Smoothy & T.Bernutt, 1977

Start: As for FYU but right.

FA: A.Prehn & G.Steward, 1988

Start: 30m right of FYU. Corners.

FA: H.Luxford, 2000

Crack and flake.

Start: 7m right again.

FA: H.Luxford, 2000

At block below a small overhang and short rotten wall. Thin crack and face.

Start: 26m right of RF.

FA: M.Burton, R.Young & G.Scott, 1980

Start 3m right of MG. Up right of weakness, through overlap and up wall. A few cams, wires, carrots and fixed hangars to loweroffs. Not bad.

FA: G Short & P Mort, 1998

Major arete on left side of the overhung wall. Start 3m right of the arete and trend left onto arete by about the 4th bolt. The arete can be climbed direct (22) or by climbing the face on the left side (20).

FA: Unknown

The arching crack then up the wall past carrots to ledge and then to top.

Start 3m right of Unknown on left of the cave. Up juggy wall to roof, then swing right and diagonally upwards to overlap then straight up wall to loweroffs.

FA: G.Short, J.Smoothy & P.Mort, 2007

Start as for Fizzgig and traverse further right then up near right end of block. Use long slings to avoid rope drag. Alternatively start in Blaxlands Gully, crawl along ledge or launch off edge of gully and up onto the wall, then straight up. May have been climbed in the dark ages.

FA: G.Short, P.Mort, B.Junge & G.Bradbury, 2007

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Selected Guidebooks all

Author(s): Simon Carter

Date: 2019

ISBN: 9780958079082

The latest comprehensive, latest and greatest Blue Mountains Climbing Guide is here and it has more routes than you can poke a clip stick at! 3421 to be exact. You are not going to get bored.

Author(s): Simon Carter

Date: 2019

ISBN: 9780958079075

Simon Carter's "Best of the Blue" is the latest selected climbing guide book for the Blue Mountains and covers 1000 routes and 19 different climbing areas. For all the sport climbers out there, the travellers, or just anyone who doesn't want to lug around the big guide that's more than 3 times the size - cut out the riff-raff and get to the good stuff! This will pretty much cover everything you need!

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