NOTE: As of January 2021, all areas of Mount York (including camping) are now open!

Access issues inherited from Blue Mountains

The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Do not cut flora and keep any tracks and infrastructure as minimal as possible.

Practically all crags are either in National Park or in council reserve: dog owners are reminded that dogs are not allowed in National Parks at any time and fines have been issued, while for crags on council reserve the BMCC leash law requires that dogs be on-leash.

Ethic inherited from Mount York

Many and varied, please try to respect them all!

Retro-bolting has occurred several times over the years and is generally condemned and dealt with swiftly.


Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)


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Grade Route

Tecnically starts in the corner right of the slot!

Start: The Corner/Offwidth to top.

FA: J.Croker & B.Ratter, 1974

FA: S.Wainwright & K.Symonds, 1996

The obvious line up the scoops immediately above the trad grade 10 corner at path level. 12m as a sport route from the scramble onto block, about 20m from path level including easy corner (no bolts till ledge). Plenty of bolts on headwall and good climbing.

FA: G.Short & P.Mort, 1998

Start: Technically this also starts up the corner below but most people do it off the ledge! Line of bolts 1.5m right of Noodle.

FA: G.Short & P.Mort, 1998

Start as for Lexical Density up corner via shiny carrot belay bolts just out of sight on arete (these are 3m below first visible fixed hanger at 10m). Then directly up right-most route on wall with numerous newer fixed hangers to anchor lower-off. Not bad.

FA: A.Prehn & R.Young, 1982

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