NOTE: As of January 2021, all areas of Mount York (including camping) are now open!

Access issues inherited from Blue Mountains

The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Do not cut flora and keep any tracks and infrastructure as minimal as possible.

Practically all crags are either in National Park or in council reserve: dog owners are reminded that dogs are not allowed in National Parks at any time and fines have been issued, while for crags on council reserve the BMCC leash law requires that dogs be on-leash.

Ethic inherited from Mount York

Many and varied, please try to respect them all!

Retro-bolting has occurred several times over the years and is generally condemned and dealt with swiftly.


Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)


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Grade Route

The left hand route on the high ledge. 2 carrots and 4 FH. Double ring anchor.

FA: G Short, J Smoothy & G Bradbury, 2009

Starts on right side of high ledge, just left of the corner crack (Second Thoughts). Carrot and cam belay. Up wall past bolts and overhang. A few medium cams may be helpful.

Start: At short corner 40m right of ICB.

FA: M.Colyvan, J.Smoothy, R.Weigand & P.Colyvan, 1982

Start: As for LCfFaG but continue up the main corner.

FA: J.Bishop, J.Aalders & S.Van der Sluys, 1974

Nice exposed arete on the right edge of the high ledge. Excellent! Take care with one of the roof "jugs"; it sounds hollow and fragile. Pull past it.

FA: G Short & J Smoothy, 2009

A bit of banter - "Colyvan was under intense pressure to do this route in defience of Ralph's clain to the upper half...via his direct start. All kinds of serious threats were levelled by his 'friends', including being struck off The Regulars List for Life" -A.P

Start: Right side of high ledge as for ST and UA. Traverse right of Uncle Amy, follow bolts to lower offs.

FA: M.Colyvan, G.Hill & P.Colyvan, 1982

FA: Bundy

As for Popularity Stakes, but then directly up wall. Shared finish with Nocturnal

Left around the bulge then finish as for PO. 3 bolts.

Start: 2m right of LCfFaG.

FA: G.Bradbury & J.Smoothy, 1988

Wall, flake and small corner to roof. Over and onto wall above.

Start: Wall 4m right.

FA: S Knight & R Weigand, 1982

Up to roof and over to top. This is all on bolts and worth getting on. Great climbing and the view!!!

Start: 1.5m right again.

FA: R.Young.A.Prehn, 1980

Ther is a grafitti mark to the LEFT of the climb. Ignore this!

Start: Short corner to roof 4m right of SL.

FA: R.Weigand & G.Hill, 1982

A fine roof crack on good rock!

Start: 1m right of WE. Roof crack.

FA: H.Luxford & C.Peisker, 1976

Mantle up on to ledge below flake in roof 2 m R of IN start. Gain good incuts on flake, the go for the lip and mantle again ... Probably wander on up from there.. Still have to decide if it's trad or sport, established climb off gear in IN..

Start: Right of IN.

FA: G.Bradbury, 1983

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