Access issues inherited from Blue Mountains

The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Do not cut flora and keep any tracks and infrastructure as minimal as possible.

Practically all crags are either in National Park or in council reserve: dog owners are reminded that dogs are not allowed in National Parks at any time and fines have been issued, while for crags on council reserve the BMCC leash law requires that dogs be on-leash.

For the latest access related information, or to report something of concern, visit the Australian Climbing Association NSW Blue Mountains page at


Down Wentworths Gully, turn L and its about 40-50m along. The track stays low until you're at the far (south) end of the wall, then you wander back up L. There is a fixed hand-over hand rope to gain the higher ledge for the 4 left-most routes.

Ethic inherited from Mount York

Many and varied, please try to respect them all!

Retro-bolting has occurred several times over the years and is generally condemned and dealt with swiftly.


Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)


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Grade Route

The left hand route on the high ledge. 2 carrots and 4 FHs. Double ring anchor.

FA: G Short, J Smoothy & G Bradbury, 2009

Starts on right side of high ledge, just left of the corner crack (Second Thoughts). Up wall past 1 carrot and a few FHs to DRB on ledge. This is a sport route if you are comfortable running it out at his grade - otherwise, place a couple of medium cams in the breaks.

FA: M.Colyvan, J.Smoothy, R.Weigand & P.Colyvan, 1982

The nice square cut corner, above the fixed rope. A great beginner trad lead - take med-large cams. Best to belay/lower off anchor on Uncle Amy on the right - otherwise top out onto loose ledge and belay off single RB and tree way back.

FA: J.Bishop, J.Aalders & S.Van der Sluys, 1974

Nice exposed arete on the right edge of the high ledge. Excellent! Take care with one of the roof "jugs"; it sounds hollow and fragile. Pull past it. DRB on ledge at top.

FA: G Short & J Smoothy, 2009

A bit of banter - "Colyvan was under intense pressure to do this route in defiance of Ralph's claim to the upper half...via his direct start. All kinds of serious threats were levelled by his 'friends', including being struck off The Regulars List for Life" -A.P

Start on the right side of the high ledge. Step right off the ledge and climb the wall 2-3m R of Uncle Amy, to lower offs.

FA: M.Colyvan, G.Hill & P.Colyvan, 1982

Doesn't add much. Start on the right side of the high ledge. Step right off the ledge and climb 1-2m R of PO to the bulge, but then basically rejoin PO to surpass the bulge. Then step R and join PSD to the top.

FA: Bundy

The leftmost route at ground level, at the bottom of the fixed rope. At the third ringbolt you can either go left and up to slot - at least grade 25 (medium cam required) or straight up on bolts and small flake, then finish left and up Nocturnal. It's possible to link into Serious Leather for a more sustained finish. The original 1988 version of this route actually finished way left and up Popular Opinion.

FA: G.Bradbury & J.Smoothy, 1988

The logical finish. Instead of traversing left into top of Popular Opinion at the 3rd bolt, go straight up the easy ring bolted wall (shared with Nocturnal).

Start 4m right of PS, 2m L of DF. Wall, flake and small corner to roof. Over and onto wall above to loweroffs.

FA: S Knight & R Weigand, 1982

Up to roof and over to loweroffs at top. This is all on bolts and worth getting on. Great climbing and the view!!!

FA: R.Young.A.Prehn, 1980

There is a graffiti mark to the LEFT of the climb. Ignore this! Short corner to roof 2m right of DF.

FA: R.Weigand & G.Hill, 1982

A fine roof crack on good rock! Start 1m right of WE.

FA: H.Luxford & C.Peisker, 1976

Mantle up on to ledge below flake in roof 2m R of IN start. Gain good incuts on flake, then go for the lip and mantle again ... Probably wander on up from there.. Still have to decide if it's trad or sport, established climb off gear in IN.

The corner 4-5m R of IN.

Start 6m R of HB. Roof then slab. Trad, dirty.

FA: G.Bradbury, 1983

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Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): Simon Carter

Date: 2019

ISBN: 9780958079082

The latest comprehensive, latest and greatest Blue Mountains Climbing Guide is here and it has more routes than you can poke a clip stick at! 3421 to be exact. You are not going to get bored.

Author(s): Simon Carter

Date: 2019

ISBN: 9780958079075

Simon Carter's "Best of the Blue" is the latest selected climbing guide book for the Blue Mountains and covers 1000 routes and 19 different climbing areas. For all the sport climbers out there, the travellers, or just anyone who doesn't want to lug around the big guide that's more than 3 times the size - cut out the riff-raff and get to the good stuff! This will pretty much cover everything you need!

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