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Dragon's Tooth Area

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Summary

NOTE: As of January 2021, all areas of Mount York (including camping) are now open!

Access issues inherited from Blue Mountains

The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Do not cut flora and keep any tracks and infrastructure as minimal as possible.

Practically all crags are either in National Park or in council reserve: dog owners are reminded that dogs are not allowed in National Parks at any time and fines have been issued, while for crags on council reserve the BMCC leash law requires that dogs be on-leash.

Approach

Walk down the stairs of Barden's. Where the stairs end take a right into the bush (be mindful of the bush regeneration, try to stick to the faint path). Keep following the vague track past ancient and forgotten climbing areas such as Laming Wall, Krell area. Dragon's tooth is hard to miss, a prominent corner to awestrike the connoisseur.

Walking time: 10 - 15 mins

Ethic inherited from Mount York

Many and varied, please try to respect them all!

Retro-bolting has occurred several times over the years and is generally condemned and dealt with swiftly.

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route

4 metres left of Dragon's Tooth. Rings on left side of central wall of the square cut recess.

FA: Ivan Valenta

Classic.

Start: The corner.

The obvious wide corner crack.

Rack recommendation: A single rack of cams with #4. You don't necessarily need a #5 or #6. At the start, bump the #4 cam as high as possible (deep in the crack) and then as your next pro, see if you can find a thread runner (a pocket that you can sling around).

Tree belay at the top. Walk out to the road.

FA: J.Bishop, J.Aalders & Mr(?)Wilson, 1974

Start: On wall right of DT.

FA: Unknown, 2000

Start: Sparse older carrots on wall 3m right of DT. From the ground, it appears to require gear between 1st and second carrots, then ?

FA: Unknown, 2000

Line of obvious fixed hangers between Dragon's Tooth and the Technical Stuff arete.

FA: G Short P Mort, 2008

Instead of starting on the right side of the TS arete, start on the left side following two carrots. Finish up TS

Start on the right side of the arete. Cams to carrots to DBB. Some of the carrot bolts are large diameterv- brackets fit, but only just. An easier variant steps left after the second bolt to finish up the left, slabby side of the arete.

Start: 12m right of 'Dragon's Tooth'.

FA: J.Smoothy & A.Penney, 1979

Old 80's project rebolted. Line of rings up the hard blank slab

Start: Up wall right of 'Technical Stuff'

FA: K Allen & C Coghill, 2009

Great wall climb. Thin in places. Rebolted 2009

Start: 3.5m right of TS.

FA: J.Smoothy, S.Knight & R.Weigand, 1982

Up onto blocks then corner to top.

Start: Crack 3.5m right again.

FA: J.Bishop & J.Aalders, 1974

Direct start to Mistral. Start right of Mistral at crack leading to slab with single bolt below overhang. Climb thru overhang to join Mistral and step right at top to Panasonic Princes DRBB lower off.

Rack recommendation: Single rack (#0.3 to #3, with double of #2) and a set of compulsory nuts.

FA: W. Williams, A Halkyard & K Melville, 2009

All Aussie iconic carrots in their full glory. A tad run out to keep you modest and humble in this mean world.

Delicate balancey moves up the arete and then the final jug fest up head wall.

FA: I Valenta & J Montgomery, 2002

all carrots

FA: G.Short?, 2000

Steep classic on good rock and rings all the way. High first bolt can be supplemented with small cam in a break, or a long stick clip from first ledge if you wish.

Start: 4m right of M.

FA: M. Gray & J. Smoothy, 1982

A bit more sustained than MMR with an exciting overhanging dyno to finish. Beautiful rock. Add a grade if your reach is limited. Although latest guidebook states attentative belayer required , no amount of attention avoids the nasty crux fall. Instead fix a 120cm sling to next bolt and clip where the bolt should be. Best rock in the Blueys!

Start: Start up easy groove as for Mal's then 3m to the right.

FA: Roger, 2008

Start: 5m right of MMR.

FA: G.Weigand & G.Clark, 1983

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Selected Guidebooks all

Author(s): Simon Carter

Date: 2019

ISBN: 9780958079082

The latest comprehensive, latest and greatest Blue Mountains Climbing Guide is here and it has more routes than you can poke a clip stick at! 3421 to be exact. You are not going to get bored.

Author(s): Simon Carter

Date: 2019

ISBN: 9780958079075

Simon Carter's "Best of the Blue" is the latest selected climbing guide book for the Blue Mountains and covers 1000 routes and 19 different climbing areas. For all the sport climbers out there, the travellers, or just anyone who doesn't want to lug around the big guide that's more than 3 times the size - cut out the riff-raff and get to the good stuff! This will pretty much cover everything you need!

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