Abseil Gully




Generally, this area gets morning shade and arvo sun. More specifically: the Eyrie Wall gets sun from about 11am; Afghan Wall stays shady until about 1pm and the Girl in the Mirror Wall is shady until noon.

Access issues inherited from Mt Boyce

Jan 2017:

Access to Mt Boyce from Station St Blackheath: Vehicle access IS permitted by climbers to the Mt Boyce car parks 1 & 2

Access to Mt Boyce from Fairy Bower Reserve, Mt Victoria: Vehicle or walking access IS NOT permitted. Do not walk or drive on the maintenance track between Fairy Bower Reserve and the Mt Boyce climbing areas. Climbers approaching Mt Boyce from this direction are asked to walk on the footpath at the right hand side of the track which takes them down to the climbing areas.

This is an existing agreement made in 2003 after discussions with the council, SRC and other interested groups. We are reminded that this agreement may change due to risks to members of the public on the maintenance track alongside the increasing number of works projects planned for the tracks. This message comes as the first of a number of upcoming works projects between 18 Jan and 9 Feb 2018, commences. Sydney Trains ask all climbers to adhere to the original agreement for access to the maintenance track.


Drive N along Station St from Blackheath for about 2km until you get to the signposted "Parking Area No. 2". Park here (having a bit of clearance helps to get into the carpark). Walk downhill on an obvious track for 5 minutes. The sport crag found on your R is Vambrace Wall. Walk another 50m down from here and you're at the top of Abseil Gully.

Descent notes

This is a rap-in and climb-out crag. Best idea is to bring a dedicated abseil rope to fix in place all day. A short rope (25m) is enough for the Abseil Gully abseil, but if you leave a rope here you need to get used to the idea that it will almost certainly get used by everyone else at the crag. If you plan to climb mostly on Afghan Wall or Mean Streak Wall then it's most convenient to fix a 50m abseil rope down your chosen wall. That way you don't have a long barefoot scramble and don't have to carry walking shoes up every climb.

Ethic inherited from Blue Mountains

Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs. If you do the bolts may be removed.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

If you have benefited from climbing infrastructure in NSW, please consider making a donation towards maintenance costs. The Sydney Rockclimbing Club Rebolting Fund finances the replacement of old bolts on existing climbs and the maintenance of other hardware such as fixed ropes and anchors. The SRC purchases hardware, such as bolts and glue, and distributes them to volunteer rebolters across the state of New South Wales. For more information, including donation details, visit

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it.

However, the fast growing scrub can conceal walking tracks in mere months, making remote and less popular crags slightly more difficult and fun to navigate to. Some appropriately discreet pruning is a far better alternative then track braiding (which causes far more damage).

However, do so only on Council land and definitely not in the National Park. Remember, to maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Do not cut flora and keep any tracks and infrastructure as minimal as possible or risk possible closures.


Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)


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Grade Route

35m left of 'Abseil Slab'.

Start: Slab.

FA: C.Martin & R.Chick, 1984

Start: 20 left of AS.

FA: C.Martin & R.Chick, 1984

Start: Ledge to the right of the descent ladder remnants.

FA: G.Owens, M.Clarbourgh & B.Shirley, 1967

Start: 3m right of AS.

FA: A.Penney & P.Martland, 1984

Start: Arête right of F&J.

FA: G.Owens, M.Clarbourgh & B.Shirley, 1967

Originally done in 3 pitches.

FA: G.Owens, B.Smith & J.Millar, 1967

Start: Wall right of AC.

FA: B.Postill & G.Wurth, 1969

1 12 30m
2 12 15m

One of the best and most traveled easy routes in the mountains - great rock and exposure. Can be done as one big pitch with a couple of slings. Start on blocks at base of grey slab beneath Eyrie belay cave.

  1. 30m (12) Slab past cams to ring bolt (possible belay), left to arete, past another FH and up to the unique bolted belay cave. 2 bolts plus single rack of cams (Camalot 0.5-4)

  2. 15m (12) Out left hand side of cave via steep, exposed moves to FH. Up left side of arete and back onto main face to find old RB. Top out for carrot belay set back from the edge, or DRB on the boulder further back.

FA: J Worral & H Ward, 1969

1 25m
2 14 35m
3 14 40m
4 9 25m


Start: As for the Eyrie. Belay after 25m.

  1. 25m (-)

  2. 35m (14) Down, then right past carrot to belay on SI.

  3. 40m (14) Around nose, across TC and AfW to belay in CC.

  4. 25m (9) Finish up CC.

FA: C.Martin & R.Chick, 1985

Start: To the right of E. Straight up nice slab aiming for the brief vague corner a metre or two right of the Eyrie's belay cave. Straight up this and into jugs above.

FA: A.Penney & P.Martland, 1984

A remarkable juggy headwall on the 2nd pitch. Start 2m right of AMJ below bolt at 5m. Single set of cams required.

  1. 20m A couple of bolts and spaced trad to double bolt belay.

  2. 30m Continue up wall and slightly overhung orange jugs above (lots of bolts).

FA: A.Penney, P.Martland & J.Smoothy, 1985

Start: Centre of the 'Black Wall'. Straight up with 'creative' pro to an airy finish.

FA: M.Clarbourgh, B.Shirley & G.Owens, 1967

Possibly never repeated.

Start: 'Arete' and black slab right of giant roof.

FA: R.Young & M.Portman, 1994

The first climb at Mt.Boyce.

Start: 6m right of BS.

  1. 27m (12) Corner to lip, left and up to second lip.

  2. 27m (12) Slightly left through bulge to top.

FA: M.Clarbourgh & G.Owens, 1967

1 9m
2 10 40m

Start: Wall to the right of OE.

  1. 9m (-) Wall to ledge and triple bolt belay

  2. 40m (10) Left up wall, slight recess and nose to tree belay.

FA: L.Smith & B.Postill, 1967

1 8 24m
2 8 35m

Start: 3m right of SI.

  1. 24m (8) Corner, face to ledge under overhang.

  2. 35m (8) Corner, right, back to corner and up.

Gum tree and bollard for anchors.

FA: G.Owens, J.Wilson & L.Muzzatti, 1967

Start: 'Arete' 2m right.

  1. 24m (-) 'Arete' to belay 3m left on block.

  2. 36m (13) Onto arete, then up right side on steep wall. Back to arete, through overhang to top.

FA: B.Postill & B.Crouch, 1969

15m (20 trad + carrots). Pull through the steep stuff and struggle onto the wall. A couple of good wires here or just run it out 5m to the next carrot then pumpilly up. Take big bolt plates as the carrot heads haven't been filed.

Start: Starts on the ledge above the big overhang on the north side of 'Abseil Gully'. Rap in (use a second rope) from the large expanse of bare rock off three carrots, clipping in to carrots on the way down. Put on clean undies. Belay on double rings.

FA: Smoothy & Bourne, 2005


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