Showing all 13 routes.
Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
Northern Crag | |||||
13 M5 | ★★★ Dixie
Aid to ledge, up to 100 Man bivvy ledge! 2).Aid up and left via triple cracks till above small roof then right via missing expando flake(!), around arete and up to ledge. 3). Easy corner. Start: 12m right of C. FA: J.Pickard, D.Leak & R.Reynolds, 1968 | 70m | |||
Main Bivouac Ledge | |||||
13 M4 R | ★ Piton Gambit Bracket Direct
To overhang, aid - take care - to block on right, left under roof and up corner or wall on right to the ledge. Start: 8m right again, below chossy roofs. FA: R.Reynolds & J.Pickard, 1967 | 21m | |||
100' Slab Area | |||||
13 M4 | ★ Stoner Highway
Ledge & arete to halfway ledge near tree. 2). 15m left to lip of overhang, aid, then right, right under roof to bolt. Up arch following pitons, right to ledge. 3). Up wall. Start: 1m right again. FA: A.Penney, 1977 | 57m | |||
13 | Zeta
Up to tree,right, around hard stuff to ledge. Start: 4m right of SH. FA: A.Penney & G.Prime, 1977 | 15m | |||
13 R | Sloth Wall
Up to ledge. 2). Left to end, around overhang and up, left up wall to ledge. 3). Diagonally left and up. Take Care! Start: 30m right of CX. FA: Bryden Allen † & T.Batty, 1963 | 65m | |||
13 | Arabesque Variant Start
Start: 6.5 left of of 'Arabesque' | 14m | |||
13 M4 | ★ Arabesque
Crack to bolt under roof, aid roof and choss to piton. 2). Wall. Start: Has Vs and Ds, left respectively. 8m right of CC. Grey left leading flake. FA: J.Ewbank & J.Worrall, 1967 | 54m | |||
13 R | ★ Chess Board
Start: 16m right of TFP, marked CB / DHP.
FA: T.Batty & F.Kitchener, 1962 | 85m | |||
13 M2 | Locust
Up to piton, left and up to roof, aid roof, wall then left and aid to bush. 2).Right and up. Start: 10m right of MM. FA: A.Penney & J.Smoothy, 1977 | 66m | |||
Southern Crag | |||||
13 | ★★★ Cave Climb
Another old classic. Bring 4-5 bolt plates for the beginning of climb. The rest is trad pro. Abseil access from top chains is approx 50m to ground. Tie a stopper knot. Start: 8m right of BPC. Has an alternate direct start 8m right up corner past old bolt.
Climb can be done in 2 pitches if you begin at direct start. (No traverse, just follow straight up the crack to cave). Replaced bolts November 2015 FA: Batty, Boyd, Westren & Smith, 1962 | 50m, 3 | |||
Herbaceous Gully | |||||
13 | ★★ Tal
Another old classic. Start up the corner that becomes the classic Toll. At the first major ledge move diagonally up and left across face, passing weird home made hanger, to arete (belay possible here), then easily up to major ledge (good belay here). Continue up easy terrain above, heading up the grey wall that has the least undercut start just left of the orange overhang.. FA: Bryden Allen † & T.Batty, 1962 | 94m | |||
13 R | ★★ En Passant
Up to tree and bushes. 2).Cracks to bushes. 3).Corner, death traverse right to arete, to ledge. 4). Walk right, up steep corner and wall. Start: Cracks 5m right of TPoA. FA: K.Westren, R.McDonald & R.Boyd, 1962 | 96m | |||
13 | Bloodwood Wall
Start: At dark corner about 50m right of Pawn Capture. Scramble up to tree anchor.
FA: K. Westren & E. Field, 1962 | 46m, 3 |
Showing all 13 routes.