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Routes in Narrow Neck Crags for selected grade

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Showing all 13 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity
Northern Crag
13 M5 Dixie

Aid to ledge, up to 100 Man bivvy ledge! 2).Aid up and left via triple cracks till above small roof then right via missing expando flake(!), around arete and up to ledge. 3). Easy corner.

Start: 12m right of C.

FA: J.Pickard, D.Leak & R.Reynolds, 1968

Aid 70m
Main Bivouac Ledge
13 M4 R Piton Gambit Bracket Direct

To overhang, aid - take care - to block on right, left under roof and up corner or wall on right to the ledge.

Start: 8m right again, below chossy roofs.

FA: R.Reynolds & J.Pickard, 1967

Aid 21m
100' Slab Area
13 M4 Stoner Highway

Ledge & arete to halfway ledge near tree. 2). 15m left to lip of overhang, aid, then right, right under roof to bolt. Up arch following pitons, right to ledge. 3). Up wall.

Start: 1m right again.

FA: A.Penney, 1977

Aid 57m
13 Zeta

Up to tree,right, around hard stuff to ledge.

Start: 4m right of SH.

FA: A.Penney & G.Prime, 1977

Trad 15m
13 R Sloth Wall

Up to ledge. 2). Left to end, around overhang and up, left up wall to ledge. 3). Diagonally left and up. Take Care!

Start: 30m right of CX.

FA: Bryden Allen † & T.Batty, 1963

Trad 65m
13 Arabesque Variant Start

Start: 6.5 left of of 'Arabesque'

Trad 14m
13 M4 Arabesque

Crack to bolt under roof, aid roof and choss to piton. 2). Wall.

Start: Has Vs and Ds, left respectively.

8m right of CC. Grey left leading flake.

FA: J.Ewbank & J.Worrall, 1967

Aid 54m
13 R Chess Board

Start: 16m right of TFP, marked CB / DHP.

  1. 15m Traverse left to arete, weird hard mantel and up to old carrot + 2 FH belay. 16 at least in modern terms, but what was the hardest thing in Aus in '62?

  2. 5m Right along breaks and up to old carrot, new chain and FH belay on delightful small ledge. Probably too much drag to combine P1 and 2.

  3. 30m Up 2m to ledge, right a ways then straight up juggy wall to Banksia.

  4. 25m (3) Low-angled juggy ironstone wall then walk off.

FA: T.Batty & F.Kitchener, 1962

Trad 85m
13 M2 Locust

Up to piton, left and up to roof, aid roof, wall then left and aid to bush. 2).Right and up.

Start: 10m right of MM.

FA: A.Penney & J.Smoothy, 1977

Aid 66m
Southern Crag
13 Cave Climb

Another old classic. Bring 4-5 bolt plates for the beginning of climb. The rest is trad pro. Abseil access from top chains is approx 50m to ground. Tie a stopper knot.

Start: 8m right of BPC. Has an alternate direct start 8m right up corner past old bolt.

  1. 10m Up grey wall to small corner, right onto slab, traverse right to tree. Most parties skip this belay and continue up p2 to cave belay.

  2. 15m Cracks (big pro) to cave. DRBB.

  3. 25m Through the cave and hole, or corner outside to the top. DBB.

Climb can be done in 2 pitches if you begin at direct start. (No traverse, just follow straight up the crack to cave).

Replaced bolts November 2015

FA: Batty, Boyd, Westren & Smith, 1962

Trad 50m, 3
Herbaceous Gully
13 Tal

Another old classic. Start up the corner that becomes the classic Toll. At the first major ledge move diagonally up and left across face, passing weird home made hanger, to arete (belay possible here), then easily up to major ledge (good belay here). Continue up easy terrain above, heading up the grey wall that has the least undercut start just left of the orange overhang..

FA: Bryden Allen † & T.Batty, 1962

Trad 94m
13 R En Passant

Up to tree and bushes. 2).Cracks to bushes. 3).Corner, death traverse right to arete, to ledge. 4). Walk right, up steep corner and wall.

Start: Cracks 5m right of TPoA.

FA: K.Westren, R.McDonald & R.Boyd, 1962

Trad 96m
13 Bloodwood Wall

Start: At dark corner about 50m right of Pawn Capture. Scramble up to tree anchor.

  1. 12m Traverse right to historic 1962 Bloodwood stump, then hand traverse right and mantle to knob anchor.

  2. 19m Steep wall to tree belay on wide ledge.

  3. 15m Easy slab to top.

FA: K. Westren & E. Field, 1962

Trad 46m, 3

Showing all 13 routes.

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