A neat little playground half way along the Mt.York peninsular, mainly sport with a few small trad lines. Has two sides: "East (Right) Side" and the "West (Left) Side". 'Start spreading the news...'
Park in obvious cleared area opposite the northern 'Historic Wells' sign about 100m before Bardens Lookout. Try to leave room for other cars, especially on weekends.
© (aca_admin)Park at the northern entrance of the Historic Wells road 3.6km from the Great Western Highway. If coming from the other direction, the parking spot is 500m southeast from Barden's lookout or 1.1km from the Mt York turning circle. Find the track located on the opposite side of the road from the Historic Wells and walk east down this track for 10 mins until the track splits in the creek at a big fallen tree and boulder. Turn left to the "West (Left) Side" or right to the "East (Right) Side".
© (aca_admin)Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs. If you do the bolts may be removed.
Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.
If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.
If you have benefited from climbing infrastructure in NSW, please consider making a donation towards maintenance costs. The Sydney Rockclimbing Club Rebolting Fund finances the replacement of old bolts on existing climbs and the maintenance of other hardware such as fixed ropes and anchors. The SRC purchases hardware, such as bolts and glue, and distributes them to volunteer rebolters across the state of New South Wales. For more information, including donation details, visit https://sydneyrockies.org.au/rebolting/
It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!
The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it.
However, the fast growing scrub can conceal walking tracks in mere months, making remote and less popular crags slightly more difficult and fun to navigate to. Some appropriately discreet pruning is a far better alternative then track braiding (which causes far more damage).
However, do so only on Council land and definitely not in the National Park. Remember, to maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Do not cut flora and keep any tracks and infrastructure as minimal as possible or risk possible closures.
Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)
Did you know that you can create an account to record, track and share your climbing ascents? Thousands of climbers are already doing this.
Author(s): Simon Carter
Date: 2019
ISBN: 9780958079082
The latest comprehensive, latest and greatest Blue Mountains Climbing Guide is here and it has more routes than you can poke a clip stick at! 3421 to be exact. You are not going to get bored.
Author(s): Simon Carter
Date: 2019
ISBN: 9780958079075
Simon Carter's "Best of the Blue" is the latest selected climbing guide book for the Blue Mountains and covers 1000 routes and 19 different climbing areas. For all the sport climbers out there, the travellers, or just anyone who doesn't want to lug around the big guide that's more than 3 times the size - cut out the riff-raff and get to the good stuff! This will pretty much cover everything you need!
15 | ★ Spoonbender | ||
16 | ★★ Tight Like a Tiger | ||
19 | ★★ Nudity | ||
21 | ★★ Spanking De Sade | ||
22 | ★★ Moan Groan Dial Tone |
akj on ★★ Spanking De Sade 21 - P1280492.jpg
akj on ★ Ballistica 21 - P1280478.jpg
Helene Cherrier on ★ Fox Force 5 17 - Visiting French-born, UK-based climber Helene Cherrier sampling the delights of the Blue Mountains.
Deanna Smyth on ★ Exploding Budgies 19 - DSCF8337b.jpg