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New York

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Description

A neat little playground half way along the Mt.York peninsular, mainly sport with a few small trad lines. Has two sides: "East (Right) Side" and the "West (Left) Side". 'Start spreading the news...'

Park in obvious cleared area opposite the northern 'Historic Wells' sign about 100m before Bardens Lookout. Try to leave room for other cars, especially on weekends.

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Access issues

Climbing and camp ground was temporarily closed in this area for much of 2020 to allow bushfire vegetation recovery and reconstruction of damaged tracks, toilet block and tin hut. The BMCC reopened New York and Soft Parade to climbing on 5/12/2020.

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Approach

Park at the northern entrance of the Historic Wells road 3.6km from the Great Western Highway. If coming from the other direction, the parking spot is 500m southeast from Barden's lookout or 1.1km from the Mt York turning circle. Find the track located on the opposite side of the road from the Historic Wells and walk east down this track for 10 mins until the track splits in the creek at a big fallen tree and boulder. Turn left to the "West (Left) Side" or right to the "East (Right) Side".

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Ethic inherited from Blue Mountains

Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs. If you do the bolts may be removed.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

If you have benefited from climbing infrastructure in NSW, please consider making a donation towards maintenance costs. The Sydney Rockclimbing Club Rebolting Fund finances the replacement of old bolts on existing climbs and the maintenance of other hardware such as fixed ropes and anchors. The SRC purchases hardware, such as bolts and glue, and distributes them to volunteer rebolters across the state of New South Wales. For more information, including donation details, visit https://sydneyrockies.org.au/rebolting/

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it.

However, the fast growing scrub can conceal walking tracks in mere months, making remote and less popular crags slightly more difficult and fun to navigate to. Some appropriately discreet pruning is a far better alternative then track braiding (which causes far more damage).

However, do so only on Council land and definitely not in the National Park. Remember, to maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Do not cut flora and keep any tracks and infrastructure as minimal as possible or risk possible closures.

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Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

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please delete me - duplicate

FA: 2005

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