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Perry's Lookdown

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Description

Areas with some big time air and big time sun. Most routes at this crag get sun from dawn until about 4pm in winter, so if its sunny you definitely want cool air temps or a breeze. The east-facing walls (e.g. Regular Route, Orange Jam) are shady after 12-1pm. In summer, all routes are in shade after 3pm.

© (Macciza)

Access issues inherited from Blue Mountains

The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Do not cut flora and keep any tracks and infrastructure as minimal as possible.

Practically all crags are either in National Park or in council reserve: dog owners are reminded that dogs are not allowed in National Parks at any time and fines have been issued, while for crags on council reserve the BMCC leash law requires that dogs be on-leash.

Approach

End of Hat Hill Rd. Best to abseil in, or it's possible (though tricky) to walk in to the base.

Abseil Access:

From the carpark/campground, head left (NW) and find the previously well-worn (but since the fires now a bit faint) track through the scrub. Follow this for 100m to a short descent gully (cairned, be careful not to miss it). From the base of the gully scramble, head left (west) to the Date with Density abseils, or right (east) to Red Edge/Parched abseils.

For Date with Density abseils, after turning left, parallel below the cliffline for about 50m through some wet scrub, then up a small hill to a fixed rope. At the base of the fixed rope is the first of the Date with Density abseils. This is the best descent route for most of the crag. It's 4 abseils to the ground:

  1. 50m to DRB on grey slab;

  2. 40m to a semi-hanging stance at DRB at a ledge/slot (there are two sets of DRB here. To make your next abseil / ropepull clearer, it's best to use the DRB 5m to your left near the arete (DwD's 2nd belay), not the DRB on your R beside the dirt corner (Fat Yak's start belay)). Also don't go 50m on this abseil (to a small slopey dirt ledge and a tree growing out of a chimney/corner) because there's no anchor there.

  3. 45m to a large sloping dirt/bush ledge; look for DRB on the orange arete at the L end of this ledge.

  4. 45m, continuing past a small bushy ledge to the main base ledge system.

For Red Edge/Parched abseils, after turning right, head straight downhill for 30m. The first anchor you see is for Parched (new rings on a ledge to your left), with the Red Edge anchors somewhat hidden 10m right of the Parched anchor (refer to topo photos of this area for more details). This buttress is steeper and the abseils are more difficult. A 200m rope will get you straight to the ground. There are three rope-capture devices to keep the rope running clear of any rock on the upper slab, the first a meter below the rap anchor, another 8-10m over the edge and left, and then a third 20m lower where the cliff cuts under. If you don't have a 200m rope and you are doing multiple abseils, there is a single fixed quickdraw 10m further down. You will need to clip this and kick off the wall in order to reach the P4/P5 belay station 15m lower, from which point you can clip-and-kick between the route's belay stations.

Walk in Access

Takes 60-90 min and is tricky to navigate, more so since the 2020-22 rain events and accompanying treefall, rockfall and regrowth. Even if you can stick to the best line, it is somewhat sketchy at times, and also traverses several spooky sections of fresh "shooting alley" rockfall. Walking in arguably allows you to not carry a 2nd rope up the climb with you, although this is probably not a great idea in any event because it'd make abseil retreat much harder. From the carpark, descend the Blue Gum Forest track until a prominent free-standing pillar becomes visible on the left (shown in the Blue Gum Track Crack topo below). From the bottom of the adjacent steel handrail, continue down the stairs for 50m (or literally 100 manufactured steps (wooden or cut-rock)... count 'em as you go!). Turn left off the trail here, and parallel 10m under the cliffline heading somewhat downwards (past Blue Gum Track Crack) looking for cairns (please tart them up as you go).

For the first few hundred metres you are rounding the buttress housing Blue Gum Track Crack, then you descend down into a gully to cross it on rock platforms at the base of a seep/trickle/waterfall. On the other side is dense tree vegetation, head into this a short way and at the first reasonable opportunity make your way UP to the main cliffline, and continue following directly along the base of it. Stay at generally the same height (following cairns) along sketchy loose ledges (be careful!) for several hundred metres, picking the safest path amongst the maze, scrambling through the odd choss-cave, and carefully negotiating a few scary checkpoints.

When you reach the first set of carrots, you're at Red Edge, with Julian's tagged project soon after, and Stiletto, then Regular Route a bit further along - you may need to drop down a few metres to get from Stiletto to Regular Route past the wet corner but it all works. Keep going to the rest of the routes.

© (Macciza)

Ethic inherited from Blue Mountains

Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs. If you do the bolts may be removed.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

If you have benefited from climbing infrastructure in NSW, please consider making a donation towards maintenance costs. The Sydney Rockclimbing Club Rebolting Fund finances the replacement of old bolts on existing climbs and the maintenance of other hardware such as fixed ropes and anchors. The SRC purchases hardware, such as bolts and glue, and distributes them to volunteer rebolters across the state of New South Wales. For more information, including donation details, visit https://sydneyrockies.org.au/rebolting/

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it.

However, the fast growing scrub can conceal walking tracks in mere months, making remote and less popular crags slightly more difficult and fun to navigate to. Some appropriately discreet pruning is a far better alternative then track braiding (which causes far more damage).

However, do so only on Council land and definitely not in the National Park. Remember, to maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Do not cut flora and keep any tracks and infrastructure as minimal as possible or risk possible closures.

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route

The fairly obvious line that can be seen from the Blue Gum Forest track.

Access by following the walk in instructions. After leaving the track keep an eye out for it on the left. It is the prominent grey face with several bash-in carrots, which becomes a splitter on nice rock in the upper half, located a hundred or so metres after you leave the track.

FA: Rob LeBreton

Corner to left of I Forget.

FA: Project Mac, 2000

Up slab left of Red Edge's final pitch. May need gear at end or rebolt. Rap down the top pitch of Red Edge and you can't miss it.

FA: Mac N Zac, 2005

Stunning and varied adventurous arete climbing of consistently high quality. Some very spaced gear in sections, and the first few carrots are not looking great as at 2022.

Access by rapping down A Date with Density, and traversing carefully to the right (facing out) (SE) along the base of the cliff. This takes you across the base of a seep/waterfall, which in wet seasons requires great caution above a 15m drop, but it still can be done.

Can also rap ~200m from the Red Edge top anchor (check access description for this area).

Bring a double rack of Cams, and bolt plates.

  1. 40m (23) - Use a wire to stick-clip the first carrot bolt (very hard moves off the ground). Up knife-blade arete-feature and technical face above, wandering around a bit to find gear and climb the line of least resistance. DBB.

  2. 40m (25 or 22M0) - Very hard bouldery start off the belay (or pull on a single bolt). Head right to the arete, and climb the left side of the arete on very spaced gear to a major horizontal break. Head back left at this break to carrot, then up trending towards the arete following carrots and gear. DBB.

  3. 30m (23) - Climb the tricky slab on the right side of the arete past 3 carrots, then up trending left via slightly steep technical face climbing. DBB.

  4. 25m (25 or 24M0) - Climb carefully up rotten rock to a very high carrot, and up to ring. Clip 2nd ring out left of undercut roof. Either aid on this bolt to gain the next and free from here (24M0) or climb up to the right of the FIRST ring until above it, traverse back left, then DOWN to the 3rd ring. Exciting (and photogenic) moves to gain and turn the arete, then up face on left-side of arete past 2 more carrots and gear. DBB.

  5. 35m (24) - Sustained power-endurance climbing up the left side of the arete past 4 bolts and gear. Bolt & tree belay.

  6. 20m (10) - Scramble up to the "black tree" where you started.

FA: Law / Payton / Moon / Kondos, 1999

A supremely positioned steep section of arete on this primo wall. Climb the arete at the left end of the ledge to another small ledge. Some bouldery moves to regain the arete.

FA: Zac Vertrees

Awesome, steep, exposed, the line immediately to the left of the prominent black streak. Outrageous climbing in the most exposed position in the Bluies. Fix a rope and rap down as for Scurvy, Stiletto etc, down the initial slab (pitch 2) and then over the sucking void clipping many bolts as you go to stay in contact with the wall. After approx. 70m you'll arrive on the major ledge which has a series of belays along it. Anchor in to some of the bolts on the left but belay from the position with the single bolt next to an empty bolt hole (???).

The FA was climbed from the ground via Red Edge and Red Edge Variant.

  1. 45m (29) The absolute money. Good rock, rad moves, and very spaced bolts. Monkey your way through the awesome steep jugs to a long, sustained, and desperate crux section. Fire this, take a rest, and bust out one more tricky sequence to the choss cave. Congratulations, you're halfway there. Steel thyself and clench thy teeth as you bust out another long section of sustained steepness to finally collapse at the anchor wide eyed and drained of all energy. Classic. 10 bolts.

  2. 25m (?? easy) This pitch has no bolts but looks very easy. Either embrace the death solo or consider traversing across to one of the equally easy looking alternate exit pitches. Or jug out.

FA: Zac & Mac, 2005

CLOSED PROJECT

An absolute rip-snorter; sustained pumping on the finest baked sandstone the Grose has to offer. Climbable any time of the year depending on whether you want shade or sun. Summer sun 10:30am till 2pm (you can start early and have a siesta atop P3, where there is some shade on the left end); winter sun till 3'ish.

  1. 40m (26) - The obvious blunt grey arete 20-30m to the right of RE. Depending on the wind this pitch cops spray from the wandering seep/waterfall to the right, if it’s flowing (wet years only). Start on the left face to gain the arête by the third bolt. Wrestle the arête until it peters out and continue up the face to a stance in the corner above the height of the sandy cave.

  2. 40m (26)- Traverse left a few moves off the belay, up another couple of bolts, and then move back right to a bolt and follow the orange streak. Continue up and gently leftward to turn the obvious roof at its left end. Climb up 10m or so to gain the large rocky ledge. Clip the high bolt to make a double bolt belay.

  3. 30m (26) - Climb the middle of the orange face several meters left of the belay (between REV and RE) to reach a sandy break where there is a tricky move around the roof. Follow the bolts up the middle of the prow. The variant of RE (27) mostly follows the left side of the arete, though the two pitches share a couple of holds at the large flake in the middle. At the top of this pitch it's easiest to belay from the anchor at the left end of the ledge.

  4. 30m (26) - You will need to be at the anchor on the right end of the ledge. Climb the line of bolts moving rightward (a few meters more than you think you should have to) before heading up. The route moves around a little but gradually makes it’s way back to the left to gain the belay

  5. 25m (27) - A tricky start gets you moving on to the obvious break heading rightward. Traverse four bolts (not including the single bolt immediately above the anchor, which is a directional for the belayer) and head up toward the obvious blank shield, 3-4m higher, with just a pad-sized flake up its middle. Climb the shield to a small roof and move right for several meters. Follow the bolts diagonally rightward to a good stance.

  6. 40m (23) - Climb to the left, keeping your feet low, until you can step up and on to the orange wall above, moving left at the roof to gain easy slab climbing to the final anchor.

FA: Julian Saunders, Apr 2015

CLOSED PROJECT

1 26
2 26
3 24
4 29
5 30
6 26
7 10

At current the hardest steepest line up one of the most continuous pieces of overhanging rock anywhere in the Bluies. Follows the first 1.5 pitches of Stiletto before breaking off right and forging a path straight up the looming sea of orange. The bolting is quite spaced the whole way but generally safe, if scary, intimidating, all too much etc etc. Usual multi pitch gear for this one. Around 15 draws including some 30cm ones. Bring a couple of long (120cm) slings to sling a tree for the second last belay.

  1. 40m (26) As for Stiletto. Start on the pillar and slap your way up the blunt arete to the belay. Careful getting to the second and third bolts.

  2. 40m (26) Left from belay then up through some bouldery moves to more moderate climbing. Below the big roof break off right from Stiletto and follow the bolts to boulder with difficulty around said roof. Easily up right to comfy ledge belay.

  3. 30m (24) Go left from the belay and up onto beautiful water-washed slab. Amazing rock and holds on this pitch that just builds and builds and builds! Classic! Hanging triple bolt belay under roof.

  4. 25m (29) Where the steepness begins. Right off belay and straight into the business. There are a few cruxes on this pitch to keep you going, including the gate keeper last move, and a few run-outs to get the heart rate up! Hanging belay under roof at triple bolts.

  5. 20m (30) Off right from belay and out roof via a hard boulder on the lip and a scary block with a lotttttt of glue behind it. Up a few more moves and then the dyno. Continue up excitingly to belay on ledge.

  6. 20m (26) Straight up off belay through some hard moves. Keep some juice in the tank for this pitch. It's not over until it's over. Up easy climbing to big ledge. Bring a couple of long slings to make a belay up on the ledge.

  7. 35m (10) Head off left along the ledge. Sling a tree and clip a couple of bolts to take you up to top belay of Red Edge, Stiletto etc.

Have fun!

FFA: Tom O'Halloran, 26 Oct 2016

Big corner system visible to the west from the top of Red Edge. Climbs corner system but pops out to buttress ledges for belays. Thanks Justin. The wettest route at Perrys in wet seasons (unclimbable as at August 2022).

FA: Mac, Zac & Jamie, 2000

1 23 20m
2 25 30m
3 24 20m
4 21 20m
5 24 30m
6 22 30m
7 23 40m

One of the first lines bolted at Perry's Lookdown, and one of the finest moderate multipitches in the Blueys. This recently freed route tackles the stunning aretes on the left side of a major buttress, generally staying a few metres R of Moonlight Corner.

Access by either abseil (via Date with Density raps) or walk in (check access description for this area).

Start on line of rings 15m left of A Date with Density (8-10m left of where the abseil lands). It’s worth taking a good look up the corner before you start; if pitch 1 is a bit seepy but climbable, the corner sections of pitches 3&4 may be soaking wet and unclimbable.

  1. 20m (23) - Enjoyable face and arete climbing.

  2. 30m (25) - A brilliant pitch of thought provoking slab climbing. Originally graded 24 and probably not dissimilar in style or difficulty to many other old school 24's around the Mountains. From the belay ledge make your way slightly right and up following the meandering line of bolts up the beautiful orange slab. (An additional bolt has been added to this pitch due to concern around a potential ledge fall. The pitch remains sportingly bolted yet safe.)

  3. 20m (24) - A short but technical pitch. From the belay head left and climb the face and arete to the base of a small rooflet. At this point climb around the arete and make your way up the face and corner until you are able to return rightward to the arete. Follow arete to the next belay ledge.

  4. 20m (21) - The route begins to feel airy at this point. From the belay head left into the corner following this upward until an improbable rising traverse allows access across the face and up the arete to belay ledge.

  5. 30m (24) - Follow the stunning left arete on perfect orange rock.

  6. 30m (22) - A tricky start leads to some steep glory jugs in a wildly exposed position. Move awkwardly up and off the right side of the belay ledge following grey rock up a short slab before moving back left onto the arete and up the steep jugs.

  7. 40m (23) - Interesting climbing on more excellent rock. As for A Date with Density Pitch 5 - Navigate your way up and rightward on the scoopy red rock then head straight up the low angled grey rock to the finish.

If you're looking for an easier but similarly excellent outing on great rock, a good link would be p1 of Beggars Banquet, p2 of Upstaged, then p3-7 of Regular Route, for pitches of 22,23,24,21,24,22,23.

Set: Justin Clark & lee cossey, 2002

FA: lee cossey, 2015

Climbs the right side arete and face of the same proud buttress as Regular Route.

Access by abseiling down A Date with Density. Starts 2m left of A Date with Density.

  1. 40m (26) Steep blunt black arete to DRB (which you rapped in off).

  2. 30m (23) Drift L around the arete and up the lovely polished orange face to same 2nd belay stance as for Regular Route.

  3. 30m (28) Straight up to big ledge.

  4. 45m (28) Steep start to gain stunning overhung orange wall.

  5. 30m (24) - As per The Regular Route

  6. 30m (22) - As per The Regular Route

  7. 35m (23) - As for A Date with Density Pitch 5.

FA: lee cossey, 2015

Lots of arêtes, beautifully sunny in winter, shady after 2pm in summer. All U's, take 14 draws and water. Start at corner about 8-10m R of where the abseil lands.

  1. 35m (25) Up corner and left onto arete. Then walk/scramble 20m up and left on the slopey ledge to the orange corner at top left.

  2. 45m (22) Climb main corner for a few bolts, then drift right to arêtes. When you get to the capping roof step R to DRB.

  3. 25m (25) Out left and up arete over sucking void. Make sure second (and probably leader too) has prussicks or something similar.

  4. 45m (18) Up slabs and walls. Belay on left end of ledge.

  5. 45m (23) Continuously diagonal climbing right and up to rap station.

FA: Ado & Mikl, 2000

1 22 40m
2 20 20m
3 21 40m

Consumer classic and the easiest route up this part of Perrys! Bring 12 draws, 2 x 50m ropes and zero bolt hangers.

Start: Rap 50m as per DwD to anchor. Then rap 45m down and rightish to double bolt belay next to big tree and large ledge.

  1. 40m (22) Thin technical face for 20m, then easier grey slab interspersed with two annoying Bluies shale band mantles. Belay at rings on ledge (ignore the double rings 2m below which you climb past).

  2. 20m (20) Move up and left of the belay and into supa orange rock to rest. Punch up steep prow to semi hanging belay next to little tree.

  3. 40m (21) Up the left side of long exposed arete to tricky mantle. Finish for the final few bolts with DwD.

FA: Jason Lammers & Neil Monteith, 2009

A mega long single pitch of pumpy orange jugs and limestoney rock. Climbs the wall you rap down from the top of A Date With Density past a bizzilion bolts. Reachy crux.

Starts at rap anchor 50m down the wall (as for the belay for 'Fat Yak' pitch 2).

FA: Neil Monteith & Vanessa Wills

The top 2 pitches of BB are worth doing in their own right, with simple single 50m rap access. Some of the most perfect orange sandstone in the Blueys.

Start: Rap in 50m as for the top rap of DwD. Belay on ledge.

  1. 40m (22) Up right on stellar orange rock into subtle corner scoopy thing. 10m up this head left across steep pumpy wall to climatic ledge mantle. Semi-hanging belay on small ledge.

  2. 15m (21) Start up on more sweet orange rock. Rad mantle, over bulge then up grey wall to top anchor.

FA: Niall Doherty, Jason Lammers, Neil Monteith & Gareth Llewellin, 2009

1 22 30m
2 22 45m
3 8 10m
4 22 40m
5 22 40m
6 21 15m

A fabulous way up the main wall, taking in the easier pitches of the three main routes to make it a sustained 5 pitch sport route at grade 22. Take at least 16 draws + DUBB.

  1. 30m (22) First pitch of Beggars Banquet. Belay off large tree. Then scramble 20m up left.

  2. 45m (22) 2nd pitch of Date with Density to semi-hanging belay. This starts off in the corner directly below large capping roof 40m higher. It's best to link pitch 2 into the short pitch 3 traverse (a roller biner helps).

  3. 10m (8) Traverse right to DRB in the corner at the base of Fat Yak pitch 1.

  4. 40m (22) Fat Yak pitch 1

  5. 40m (22) Beggars Banquet pitch 5 to semi-hanging belay.

  6. 15m (21) Beggars Banquet pitch 6 to top. It's feasible to link pitch 5 into pitch 6 with 1-2 well-placed rollers and 18 draws.

A few tasty morsels pinched from under the probing eyes of the locals. Climbs face right of DwD. Varied climbing with a different style on every pitch.

Start 6-8m R of DwD (i.e. about 15-20m R of where the abseil lands).

  1. 30m (22) Best pitch of the route! Steep right facing flake to start then continuous pumpy climbing to finish on ledge with large tree belay.

  2. 15m (17) Scramble un-roped 20m up left to large ledge. Rope up again then ditty right across face to enter short hand crack, and up it to ledge below corner. Belay off large tree and single ring.

  3. 20m (24) Wildly contorted. Couple of chossy moves to enter steep stemming corner, out right under roof to small ledge. Out right again and onto thin face. Up to hanging belay (same belay below P3 of DwD)

  4. 40m (24) Layaway up right leading very thin seam for 20m, then join into Fat Yak P1 for 20m of easier slab past two ugly horizontals to comfy bolt belay on small ledge (the higher of the two set of anchors).

  5. 40m (22) Da pumper pitch. Up right on stellar orange rock into subtle corner scoopy thing. 10m up this head left across steep pumpy wall to climatic ledge mantle. Semi-hanging belay on small ledge.

  6. 15m (21) Orange rock mantle, over bulge then up grey wall to top anchor.

FA: Neil Monteith & Gareth Llewllin

The left facing corner crack left of the smooth orange wall between Slipstream and DwD. 4 pitches. Start: bash thru the jungle without falling off the cliff. This is a fantastic looking line when viewed from the Date with Density wall, but the rock is reportedly quite poor.

FA: Wilson & B Harington, 1999

These are good additions for Never Say Never. A suggestion is to do "The Circuit": if climbing on single rope leave fixed rope on huge gum tree below Slipstream. Climb first 2 pitches of Down Stream, rap back down fixed rope, then climb Never Never Land, walk along ledge and retrieve rap rope, then climb Never Say Never. A great 7 pitch day with a nice warm up.

Rap down Slipstream. Once you have landed on the scree ledge you can rap off huge gum tree a few meters down and right from where you land. Rap slightly left. 53m rap, bring a sling to extend if using 50m rope. Once on the deck walk 5m left. There are 2 corners facing each other 7m apart in alcove both hitting a roof at 10m. The right corner is Down Stream .

Start: 55m below the start of Never say never is an alcove, left arete

  1. 25m (22) 25m Up arête past 3 carrots and natural pro, pul through roof then up crack to belay on small ledge at tree plus no 1 cams 2m above.

  2. 40m (20) Up crack, then continue up slabby arête past friends & 2 carrots, a no. 2 friend in slot on left of arête protects move to stance on right hand side of small roof, no.½ friend. Traverse under roof then climb left side of arête past a bolt to small ledge, easy wall to big ledge. Belay at small tree, backup with wires in Never Say Never.

FA: Mark Wilson & Brendan Helmrich., 2009

Start: Rap down Slipstream. Once you have landed on the scree ledge you can rap off huge gum tree a few meters down and right from where you land. Rap slightly left. 53m rap, bring a sling to extend if using 50m rope. Once on the deck walk 5m left. There are 2 corners facing each other 7m apart in alcove both hitting a roof at 10m. The right corner is Down Stream .

  1. 15m (16) Up corner for 10m traverse under 4 metre roof to arête, belay on small footledge, semi hanging.

  2. 25m (16) Up corner crack belay off gum tree.

  3. 20m (16) Up crack and scree to gum you rapped off. Average pitch, better to rap down and climb Never Never Land.

FA: Mark Wilson & Brendan Helmrich., 2009

Awesome, varied, beautiful in winter, catches the sun. Start: Easiest to rap down Date With Density (requires 2 x 50m+ ropes) and walk right 70m. You can also rap the route, however there is no top anchor (or quality rap-tree), thereby making this tricky.

If rapping the route: From the top of the Date With Density rap area, continue another 80m (consider roping up) along the sketchy ledge / hanging swamp. Down fixed rope for 20m, and either establish an abseil-anchor off the bottom of the fixed rope, or sling 50 shrubs together. Rap 1: 30m to ledge and DUB (Double U-Bolt Belay), below a bulge. Rap 2: 30m to DUB on the arete. Rap 3: 15m swing right (looking in) to DUB below rooflet. Rap 4: 50m to monster ledge. Rap 5: Walk down scree for 15m then rap 53m off big tree to deck (leave sling if using 50m ropes) and walk around R to corner/chimney to start. If abseiling the route, consider cleaning the crux pockets on P1, as they acquire dirt.

Start below chimney slot, left of stunning thin crack (ORANGE JAM / This is Your Brain On Crack).

  1. 22m (23/24) Start up twin-crack/chimney for 8m then trend L to DRB on ledge. 6 UBs.

  2. 35m (22/23) Awesome sustained climbing up long arête. Belay off bomber tree just below vegetated scree-slope. About 9 UBs. (Note, Pitch 1 & 2 can be combined (17 UBs) with 70m rope).

  3. 50m (23) Corner, grovel through some loose rock, then trend L to some of the best face climbing in the mountains. A fantastic pitch. Sustained, but with no real hard move. Easier than P1. 12 U-bolts.

  4. 45m (22) Very cruxy. Grab roof flake then a very exposed cut loose above the void, to turn the lip. Much easier climbing up arete to DUB at 15m. Belay here if your second doesn't want 45m of rope stretch if they come off the roof move. Or, go another 30m up easy arête to DUB at back of cave. At least 10 U-bolts.

  5. 30m (22) Blast thru fun, juggy roof/bulge past 3 UBs, then easily up right side of arete and into scrubby top-out. No anchor or sturdy belay tree. Either sling a bunch of shrubs, or belay off the bottom of the fixed hand-over-hand rope 5m above the topout. 6 U-bolts.

Exit up the fixed rope through vertical sword grass for 20m then left along hanging swamps for 80m to the usual walk-out. This walk-off is a bit sketchy - you might like to walk roped up 50m apart until the DWD rap point, so at least there'd always be a big tree below your rope to hopefully stop you from taking the 200m lob if you slip or the swamp collapses underfoot.

FA: Adrian Laing, Jon Sedon, mikl. Pitches 1, 2 added by Mikl & Ado a year or two later., 2008

1 27 20m
2 19 37m

Orsum Rock And Nice Gear Everywhere - Just Ask Mikl (O.R.A.N.G.E. J.A.M.)

The awesome crack 5m R of the start of Slipstream. Can be done in one pitch but be careful with rope length. This nook is surprisingly hot on sunny mornings; e.g. if the Boyce maximum is 7C with 30-50km/h W-SW wind, you will be too hot here in the sun. The route goes into shade about 1pm.

  1. 20m 27 The crack, to DRB. Lots of thin gear, some is not easy to place on lead.

  2. 37m 19, dirtier but easier. 1 FH. U-bolts and carrots at back of ledge for belay.

Walk 20m L and finish up pitches 3-5 of Slipstream.

Set: Mike Law, 2010

FA: Monique Forrestier, 2012

FFA: Zac Vertrees & Macciza a.k.a. Macca, 2012

Easiest access is to rap down Date with Density and walk 100m west along the base to the start. Or, rap 2/3rds the way down Slipstream to the big ledge/scree slope, then walk 30m to the left (looking out) on slopey ledge to DUB at top of arete. 30m rap to DUB then 35m rap to ground. U-Bolts and gear.

  1. 33m (23) Up left-facing corner (large wires, cams up to hand-size) for 15m past bushes. Hand traverse L along ledge to u-bolt, then diagonally left to arete and up to DUB. 7 u-bolts and gear.

  2. 30m (27) Up stunning arete. 8 U-bolts. If you rapped the line put a 1m sling on the 2nd bolt when rapping the route so you can get out if you can't pull the moves. Or bring a stick up to the ledge, or just rap off and escape up Slipstream.

FA: Adrian Laing, Jon Sedon & Nic Sellers, 2008

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