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Description

Old school trad lines with a few good moderate sport multis thrown in for good measure.

Access issues inherited from Blue Mountains

The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Do not cut flora and keep any tracks and infrastructure as minimal as possible.

Practically all crags are either in National Park or in council reserve: dog owners are reminded that dogs are not allowed in National Parks at any time and fines have been issued, while for crags on council reserve the BMCC leash law requires that dogs be on-leash.

Approach

Turn right on to the canyon/climbing path off the Pierces Pass main track as you come to a left hand turn that would take you beneath the Colour's of Spring Wall. Follow this with ease until you get to your desired piece of rock.

Ethic inherited from Blue Mountains

Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs. If you do the bolts may be removed.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

If you have benefited from climbing infrastructure in NSW, please consider making a donation towards maintenance costs. The Sydney Rockclimbing Club Rebolting Fund finances the replacement of old bolts on existing climbs and the maintenance of other hardware such as fixed ropes and anchors. The SRC purchases hardware, such as bolts and glue, and distributes them to volunteer rebolters across the state of New South Wales. For more information, including donation details, visit https://sydneyrockies.org.au/rebolting/

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it.

However, the fast growing scrub can conceal walking tracks in mere months, making remote and less popular crags slightly more difficult and fun to navigate to. Some appropriately discreet pruning is a far better alternative then track braiding (which causes far more damage).

However, do so only on Council land and definitely not in the National Park. Remember, to maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Do not cut flora and keep any tracks and infrastructure as minimal as possible or risk possible closures.

Tags

Routes

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Grade Route

Starts at the crack one metre or so right of Samson Gets a No 1 and follows this up to the arete. Go around the arete and past one bolt (has a biner on it as of 04/18) to desperate, disintergrating and gripping crux sequence that gets harder every time someone pulls on. If you manage to old school your way through this, continue up the slowly falling apart crack to the ledge. Rap off the block above Samson.

Fantastic looking crack that is visible from both the track and many of the climbs on the East Side. Rap off unpleasantly slung death block on top.

FA: M Wilson & C Hale, 1996

A gem of a climb in a magnificent setting and historically one of the first multi-pitch sport routes in the Bluies. A rare big wall that suits lazy starters - it dips into shade after 10am in summer. Many non-lazy climbers combine it with with Smegdeath for a full day out. The route is mostly juggy with a few smaller holds and not too hard for the grade. Although it was rebolted in 2021 the original older vibe still remains - it is more runout than many of the newer sport multis - a few cams can help if this is at your limit. Take about 12 quickdraws, 2x60m ropes, and above all, prusiks! No bolt-plates required.

  1. 40m (21) Trend left up face onto overhung juggy arete and finish up grey wall to tiny ledge and anchors. Stick-clipping the first bolt is highly recommend to save ankles/legs/head. Aprox 10 bolts.

  2. 20m (21) Right trending wall on extraordinary featured rock. The orange slopes are delicious. Belay on tiny ledge under the daunting steepness.

  3. 45m (23) A remarkable pitch. Left through steepness onto subtle arete. Step right onto unique and unnerving thin flake (treat this with extreme caution) and up pumpy steep wall until the angle changes to less army and more footy. Belay is right at the top of the cliff at awkward small stance (semi-hanging belay).

Descend by rapping down pitch 3 using double ropes (clipping into a few bolts to stay connected to the steep wall) then one long 60m rap down pitches 2&1 to the ground. 50m ropes will not make it down in one go. It's possible to do it in three raps with a bit of a swing on pitch 2. Walking off is not recommend as it puts you all the way back on the highway at least two kilometres away from the carpark.

FA: Michael Law & S Moon, 1996

Wall with great gear left of bladderhozen.

4 well bolted sport pitches with shade after midday and minor weather protection in the upper pitches. All bolts and belays are glue-in rings - no bolt plates required. Try not to throw anything on the canyoners that wander along the base of the route at regular intervals. Starts 10m left of Bladderhozen, and 3m left of Church of the Seventh Samurai at far left end of small ledge at small tree and small balancing flake.

  1. 14m (16) Easy face left of balancing flake to ledge. Scramble up and left 5m to belay left of giant flake. 5 bolts.

  2. 32m (23) Easily up left side of giant flake for a few metres then straight up the orange wall. At 15m tread cautiously past shale band and through crux undercut. Once the difficulty eases trend right for a couple of bolts to miniature ledge belay. 12 bolts.

  3. 30m (21) Long orange wall left of major corner to big ledge. 11 bolts

  4. 37m (24) Tricky slab start then continue up orange wall that steepens gradually to a pumpathon finish onto ledge. 15 bolts. Rap back down the route. Double ropes required unless you have an 80m single or don't mind a rope stretch just reach the belay on a 70m.

Set: Monty Curtis, 20 Feb 2016

FA: Monty Curtis, adam demmert & , 28 Feb 2016

From the Pierces Pass Lower Carpark, head down the Pierces Pass walking track, looking for the Yileen canyon exit track (on the right) when approximately below The Colours of Spring. Head down the Canyon Exit Track, across the creek, and back up the other side (passing below Wrath of Delilah, Samson Gets a #1 and Kryptonite Crack), and below the cliffline (past Bladderhozen, Church of the Seven Samurai and The Iron Throne) to the bottom of Yileen Canyon.

Bush bash through dense wall-of-tree in a westerly direction below the cliffline (staying high-ish) for 100m to another slot canyon (this is the abseil descent from the climbs beyond this point), and for another 100m to Mrs Mac's Crack (the first of the obvious, overgrown corner-cracks, in grey rock). 15m further along, down a slight scramble is the direct, vegetated grovel start to Tientel (look for several carrots directly above, this is Kiss and Tell (22), which shares the same start).

Better than Ben Hur is another 100m further along the base of the cliff (and up a vegetated, loose gully).

P1 12m (15) - Up dirty, vegetated, barely protected corner to groove/chimney. Up this until it ends, then left along vegetated/loose ledge to belay below the main corner.

P2 45m (20) - Up loose blocks and vegetation, to overgrown, dirty corner. Carefully up this to a nice-looking clean corner at 35m height. Layback up clean corner, then continue up to a stance on a small, vegetated ledge below loose corner above (average gear on this belay).

P3 45m (20) - Up past shale-band and through roof to vegetated corner. Okay climbing up corner past 2 bulges. Belay on rubble-strewn ledge (fixed hex), 10m below big shale roof.

P4 45m (21) - Up corner to disgusting shale ledge and shale roof. Carefully get a #5 cam (or #4 higher up) into the wide shale-crack in the roof. Through roof with much trepidation (being careful not to kill your belayer), then more enjoyable steep corner-crack climbing to huge shale/dirt ledge.

P5 35m (21) - Up tricky, vegetated stemming corner to stance below roof. Chimney through roof, and up dirty, mossy, vegetated corner above to shale-mantle next to a small cave (#2 & #3 cams out right to belay).

P6 25m (12) - Dangerously up completely overgrown and underprotected corner. Up wide crack. Up ironstone plates to belay well-back on small trees.

To escape, walk east down the steepening hill and into the overgrown canyon. CAREFULLY down the steep canyon (through a wall of shrubs/trees) aiming for a tree with multiple slings around it at the canyon drop-off. A full 60m abseil will JUST make it to the ground, or a 40m abseil (to carrots + carabiners on the RIGHT side of the canyon), and another 20m abseil to the ground.

Description as found in "Rockclimbs in the Grose Valley", edited by Warwick Williams:

Everyone raves about it.

This is a typical Grose climb that can really test your commitment and experience. A few young hard men thought that this would be a good starting place to show their mettle. Before reaching the crux, but after breaking a hold or two, they thought Nowra was a better bet.

Stepped, left leaning corner system capped by large roof finishing near Liversidge Hill and clearly visible from Hanging Rock.

Access: Follow the Pierces Pass track towards valley until it reaches cliffs. Leave track and head west crossing creek, then follow base of cliffs, crossing two more watercourses until major corner system is visible. Walking time from track to climb is about 45mins. Mt Wilson map ref 517818.

Start: Scramble up (ropes required) about 70m to base of corner following system of bushy ledges; corner begins at right end of top ledge. Take full rack up to very large SLCD.

  1. 40m (16) Corner to belay (SLCD's) above small overhang with large bush, 4m below first major roof.

  2. 25m (18/19) Corner to shale ledge (good runner) then traverse left 4m to break in roof. Jugs (?), then left and up corner past bush to HB (SLCD'S) below bush 2.5m below roof.

  3. 20m (crux) Corner to second roof with prominent horizontal handcrack. Move left under roof, then corner to belay (SLCD's) on good, small ledge.

  4. 40m (17) Corner to large roof, then left round arete to corner. Corner/slab to belay (SLCD's) 4m below final roof.

  5. 30m (14) Up right on juggy wall to arete , then into easy corner.

FA: Mark Baker & Lucas Trihey, 1995

FA: L Trihey & C Jackson, 2002

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