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La La Land Area

6

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Access issues inherited from Blue Mountains

The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Do not cut flora and keep any tracks and infrastructure as minimal as possible.

Practically all crags are either in National Park or in council reserve: dog owners are reminded that dogs are not allowed in National Parks at any time and fines have been issued, while for crags on council reserve the BMCC leash law requires that dogs be on-leash.

Ethic inherited from Blue Mountains

Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs. If you do the bolts may be removed.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

If you have benefited from climbing infrastructure in NSW, please consider making a donation towards maintenance costs. The Sydney Rockclimbing Club Rebolting Fund finances the replacement of old bolts on existing climbs and the maintenance of other hardware such as fixed ropes and anchors. The SRC purchases hardware, such as bolts and glue, and distributes them to volunteer rebolters across the state of New South Wales. For more information, including donation details, visit https://sydneyrockies.org.au/rebolting/

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it.

However, the fast growing scrub can conceal walking tracks in mere months, making remote and less popular crags slightly more difficult and fun to navigate to. Some appropriately discreet pruning is a far better alternative then track braiding (which causes far more damage).

However, do so only on Council land and definitely not in the National Park. Remember, to maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Do not cut flora and keep any tracks and infrastructure as minimal as possible or risk possible closures.

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route

Start in the corner as for the next two routes, then straight up and to the left of La La Land following the leftmost bolted line and finishing at anchors shared with LLL.

FA: Stephen Hawkshaw, 2003

Is a favourite for aspiring 24 leaders. The central, very chalked line of the three.

FA: S.Moon, 2000

Same start as previous but follow bolts trending out right (a couple of longer slings will be handy to reduce drag). A thin move to get established on the slab leads to a long sequence of interesting climbing interspersed with rests. The final section may be baffling, but can be done a few different ways.

FA: Chris Coghill

Should not be rebolted - retro that is!

Start: At groove 10m left of waterfall. Marked SS.

  1. 15m Up groove to niche below overhang. Traverse right, belay on ledge below corner.

  2. 25m Up corner to a flake, move left to fine crack in smooth wall. Up this past niche to a flake with bulging overhang above. Over this then up groove to good ledge.

  3. 6m Move left along ledge to large tree belay.

  4. 25m Up wall for 3m then move right to a crack and follow to a bushy ledge and belay.

FA: K.Bell & J. Morgan, 1972

FFA: Keith Bell & Kevin Bell, 1977

Shallow corner/crack just after the waterfall. Apparently the 'original' start of the FFA of 'Sesame Street'!

FA: V.Petersen, 2000

Heinous boulder problem in the shallow groove 2m R of SPM.

FA: B.Ashby, 2010

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