A classic first pitch through a monster roof, and a 3rd pitch that will test just how trad you think you are.
Bring a double rack of cams #0.4 - #4, a single #5, a rack of wires, and consider 3 x #1 - #4. A number 6 will also come in handy on all 3 pitches.
Start: Left of The Mind Boggles, below enormous chimney and roof at seam crack, marked "T".
The original route aided up the knifeblade seam on the right. The first free ascent climbed the chossy and badly protected chimney at the back. Instead, to make P1 a 3-star pitch, start up the wide layback flake system right of the chimney.
25m (22) Climb wide layback flake system right of the chimney until its end (#6 useful, but not essential), then head left across wide break, and up to stance below the roof. Then take the wild left crack out the monster roof, and into steep hand crack above the lip. A 3-star trad pitch in its own right. Belay off Medium-Large nuts, and #4 & #5 cam.
20m (18) Delicately up chossy start to gain offwidth. Up this to roof, then take the left line through the roof to an outrageous finale replete with obligatory head jam. Belay off 2 x #3's and a 0.4/0.5 cams.
25m (24) Proper Trad. Straight up from belay to stance below roof (fixed wire). Then desperate moves into bottomless squeeze-chimney (#6 useful) and respite. Then onwards and upwards on easier terrain to large tree belay.
To escape, rap once to the top of The Mind Boggles (chain anchor) then rap down that route as necessary.
