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Purgatory Wall

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Description

A slabby Wall about 9 metres high with some good rock. All climbs are described from left to right

© (secretary)

Access issues inherited from Lower Blue Mountains

Be sensible.

Ethic inherited from Blue Mountains

Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs. If you do the bolts may be removed.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

If you have benefited from climbing infrastructure in NSW, please consider making a donation towards maintenance costs. The Sydney Rockclimbing Club Rebolting Fund finances the replacement of old bolts on existing climbs and the maintenance of other hardware such as fixed ropes and anchors. The SRC purchases hardware, such as bolts and glue, and distributes them to volunteer rebolters across the state of New South Wales. For more information, including donation details, visit https://sydneyrockies.org.au/rebolting/

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it.

However, the fast growing scrub can conceal walking tracks in mere months, making remote and less popular crags slightly more difficult and fun to navigate to. Some appropriately discreet pruning is a far better alternative then track braiding (which causes far more damage).

However, do so only on Council land and definitely not in the National Park. Remember, to maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Do not cut flora and keep any tracks and infrastructure as minimal as possible or risk possible closures.

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route

Front side of Kevs boulder, up arete clipping bolts on your left...top out for full value (lowers offs available if needed)

FFA: Ian Reynolds, 10 Nov 2013

Around corner from ABD, up left side of slab to shared anchors or top out and walk off

FFA: Ian Reynolds, 10 Nov 2013

Right side of slab on kevs boulder, 2 bolts and top out to belay bolts on top (shared anchors available if preferred)

FFA: 10 Nov 2013

First route on main wall, Up arete left of corner moving right at top to shared anchors

FA: Rod Wills, 15 Sep 2013

Sick of sandy slabs and ringbolts? Be a trad lad and try the finger crack between Yoda and Queen or Country. Jam through the bulge to join the arete, finishing as for Yoda at DBB.

FA: Kalang Kedumba Jones, 19 Aug

An easy pocketed featured wall up past left side of cave. Crux after 2nd bolt. 2 bolts + DBB.

FA: Rod Wills, 1999

2m right of QOC. Straight up slab and right side of cave. 4 bolts + Lower offs

FA: rod wills, 2004

Up the wall to the left of the bulge following line of bolts with crux past the third bolt. 3 bolts + DBB

FA: Rod Wills, 2000

Easy start to bulge, getting significantly harder after the second bolt. 2 bolts + DBB

FA: Kevin Van Tilberg., 1999

2m rt of S, over small overlap over the sloppy nose to anchors.

FFA: Kevin Van Tilburg, 10 Nov 2013

Straight up middle of the cave.

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