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Largely abandoned and forgotten almost as soon as they were climbed in 1958, the rambling Rhum Dhu cliffs stretch from Nellies Glen to the Devil's Hole.

Modern climbers should stick to the well-worn adventurous multi-pitch classics Shandy and Dirty Rotten Pig beneath the Boars Head, and not pretend that ancient routes are safe or accessible, even if they could find them. Yet some recent bold new lines like "The Forgotten crack" prove the explorer may yet indulge the new Craft among old Rhum.

Access issues

This area is currently recovering from the 2014 bush fires. Natural bush regeneration is in progress with council fencing in place to stop public access. On approach to the first rap in point ensure you stick to the Boars Head access trail so as not to interfere with the regrowth. Regeneration of this area will take many years!


For Dirty Rotten Pig and Shandy:

Park at Cahills Lookout on Cliff Drive, Katoomba. Walk 100m south following the road and locate the trail head leading to the top of the first abseil station (chain anchors) opposite Boar’s Head.

Abseil (#1, chain anchors) 20m into gully. Walk 30m down into the gully and out onto right wall (South) above huge chockstone. Traverse solo or on belay from the gully around the ledge (4 ring bolts in place) and through the chimney (3 ring bolts in place) to the 3 anchor abseil station.

Abseil (#2, chain anchors) 20m down slot to boulders and next abseil station.

Green Salad Gully Abseil

Abseil (#3, double ring bolts) 25m to gully floor (1 ring bolt at base). Set up retrievable safety line using single ring bolt or scramble 15m to end of slot and next abseil station.

Link abseils 2 & 3 using double ropes.

Abseil (#4, chain anchors) 25m to ground and follow trail around to the right to locate climbs.

If you encounter a commercial group going down the abseils in the slot, you can abseil down the west face (Shandy side) of the slot if you have double ropes using abseil #3 anchors.

It’s also possible to walk down Devil’s Hole (locate the pole painted with “Devils Hole” in red, opposite 239 Cliff Drive) and along the base of the cliff for 20 minutes, locate the big slot of Green Salad Gully, go left another 140m then scramble up 40m to the base of Shandy or right to the other routes. This requires a bit more luck and walking.

ESCAPE: If you need to escape the crag rap off the fixed double rap rings. Abseil pass the overhang and big ledge to reach the base of the cliff. Follow the cliff line to the right (facing the cliff) for approx 30 minutes. Pass the man made cave shelter, continue along the base of the cliff and head up the gully marked with the sign "Devils Hole" to find Cliff Drive.

For Rhum Dhu:

Drive East along cliff drive past the car park for dirty rotten pig for approx 200m and park next to the national park sign. The Devils hole track heads down for here and gives you access to the base of all the other routes. At the bottom of the walk down go right for Castaway area which is approx 15min walk passing a hermits cave after 10min.

Go left for Narrow Neck.

LOST FROM SHANDY? If you're just climbing the bolted sections, then traversing left and back up to the carpark, here's how to get out:

Follow the line of bolts left, around the cliff, through the small forest and up onto the slab (about 15 mins). Look to your left and you'll see a set of staples in the boulder. Set up a hand-line from here using the bolts- left to the small cave, then around to the opposite side of the boulder, following the line of bolts along a high traverse, over a small gap, before meeting the main cliffline and short walk up to the carpark. You will not be able to belay due to the amount of turns so be careful setting this line up, and consider ways of protecting yourself. Tie the end off at the last bolt and use the standard 2 carabiners on safety to traverse, with draws at each bolt. Note- the exit can be much more daunting for a nervous beginner than the actual climb, but is a fun experience.

Ethic inherited from Blue Mountains

Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs. If you do the bolts may be removed.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

If you have benefited from climbing infrastructure in NSW, please consider making a donation towards maintenance costs. The Sydney Rockclimbing Club Rebolting Fund finances the replacement of old bolts on existing climbs and the maintenance of other hardware such as fixed ropes and anchors. The SRC purchases hardware, such as bolts and glue, and distributes them to volunteer rebolters across the state of New South Wales. For more information, including donation details, visit

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it.

However, the fast growing scrub can conceal walking tracks in mere months, making remote and less popular crags slightly more difficult and fun to navigate to. Some appropriately discreet pruning is a far better alternative then track braiding (which causes far more damage).

However, do so only on Council land and definitely not in the National Park. Remember, to maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Do not cut flora and keep any tracks and infrastructure as minimal as possible or risk possible closures.


History timeline chart

Frequently a mass of vegetation, red lichen, ironstone plates, choss, and disorder, the heights and depths of these obscure cliffs were plumbed in a brief explosion by the Rhum Dhu between 1958 and 1961, a group formed to disband all forms of organisation, drink (no doubt to excess) and open up new climbing areas. Their number included Peter Hardy, Doug Litchfield, Bob Cunningham, Ken Cooke, Rhonda Adams, Marcia Montague, John Skinner, Eric Paris and Kevin Westren, who also climbed several seminal routes at Sublime Point. A few subsequent routes were put up by John Ewbank, Bryden Allen, Russ Kippax, Les Tatersall and Dave Rootes et. al. in the early 60s, including "Terrier 1", significant as the first Australian climb to use expansion (Terrier) bolts.

The descriptions and quotes below of #Historical and other climbes are taken from Bryden Allen's [BA] 1963 Rock Climbs of NSW, John Ewbank's [JME] 1967 Rockclimbs in The Blue Mountains and George Owens' [Owens] 1995 Rockclimbs in the upper Blue Mountains.

Let the climber, explorer and reader, beware.


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Grade Route

#Historical Access to this end of the Rhum Dhu could be via the Nellies Glen track but is likely to be difficult and overgrown.

Awesome steep hand crack, located just to the North of Therabulat Lookout, overlooking Nellies Glen, Katoomba. Access via Stuarts Road.

Rap off trees to ledge approx 30m down. Its quite tricky landing on the ledge as its so steep. Either pre place the gear on rap to help get you on the ledge or lasso the rope onto the pile of detached blocks and pull yourself in. Sounds dodgy but actually works.

P1. Isn't recommended. Grade 21 with hard moves off ledges.

P2. Belay 1 carrot, #1 and #2 BD cam. Classic steep hand crack that overhangs by 30 degrees. Take triple in size #1,2&3 BD cam and single rack in the rest.

Route history unknown.....Please update if you do know. Hugh Ward freed it on 29/08/2019

FFA: Hugh Ward & Marty Doolan, 29 Aug 2019

1 15 12m
2 21m
3 21m
4 15m
5 15m

Topo notional, route not confirmed.

#Historical Abseil down "near the waterfall" (hard to find climb start), or walk down Nellies Glen until climb "stands out as obvious crack between a wall and detached buttress". [BA] Current access unknown.

  1. (12m) (crux) Very tricky start up wall, via 1963 bolt runner to natural anchors. Originally done by lassoing a tree. "Layback cracks are other possibilities further to the right."

  2. (21m) Up through scrub and rotten rock.

  3. (21m) Up through scrub and rotten rock.

  4. (15m) Up the final crack separating the buttress from the main wall.

  5. (15m) Continue up the crack on magnificent rock and a clean finish.

"Magnificent rock and a clean finish." [BA] "Grand climbing." [JME]

FA: E. Paris, D. Litchfield, B. Cunningham, K. Westren & K. Cooke, 1958

1 16m
2 11 22m

#Historical Topo notional, route not confirmed.

A short climb and .. "probably not worth the walk" [BA] .. "which is useful as a descent route" [JME]

Start: On the right of a nose just before the waterfall.

  1. (16m) Start on a block and up to a tree belay.

  2. (22m) (crux). Climb diagonally to the right of a small groove through an overhang to top.

FA: D. Litchfield, B. Cunningham, K. Westren, K. Cooke, P. Hardy, R. Adams & M. Montague, 1958

"A good climb, with a great jig [sic] ridden slab. Start: Large blocks lay against face, approx. 30m right of Dry Sherry Pinnacle. The climb is about 5-6 pitches, the crux being getting off the blocks onto the wall and slab above. All protection is natural." [JME]

FA: K. Westren, M. Montague & J. Skinner, 1958

#Historical "The first climb to use expansion (Terrier) bolts. Several are used and are useful as belays and runners. 3/8" eyebolts are needed to use these." [BA] 100m

Start: An obvious chimney near top of the face marks the climb. From directly below scramble up about 25m.

  1. (30m) Start up wide chimney which closes into crack filled with vegetation at 25m. Up crack, traverse right then back left to large tree belay.

  2. Scramble up past small gully to below huge chimney.

  3. (30m) Up chimney via Terrier runners to crack. Up to cave recess then into chimney with belay 4m back.

  4. (18m) Chimney up small cave to "expansion bolt belay 4m from roof."

  5. (10m) Chimney to outside of crack onto right hand wall. Traverse left to tree belay.

FA: D. Rootes & L. Tattersall, 1961

Start: 200m west of Rhum Cognac at a rock pyramid balanced on a block confronting two layback cracks.

  1. (10m) Layback the right crack, awkward start and overhung in places. Hard to find but good rock belay.

  2. (18m) Traverse right and descend on other side of ledge to a tree, continue traverse into chimney. Climb this amphitheatre on a wide grassy ledge. "Good vegetable belay." [BA] (Vegetables!? - Ed.)

  3. (18m) Climb chimney on left until forced out by overhanging mantelshelf, then traverse to face and climb directly to a good tree belay.

FA: K. Cooke, P. Hardy, R. Adams, M. Montague & D. Litchfield, 1958

Start: Walk 100m left of Rhum Cognac to slight 21m high corner which faces Narrow Neck, then left again to wide scrubby corner. 170m

  1. (43m) Cracks, bushes and corner to ledge (tree).

  2. Continue pitch 1.

  3. (37m) Corner for 20m, traverse left 13m and up (bolt belay).

  4. (37m) Easily to ledge (piton belay).

  5. (26m) Onto block, traverse left, up, around nose and up to tree.

  6. (23m) Up.

FA: J. Ewbank, 1968

1 13 28m
2 18m

"A pleasant climb on good rock."[JME] JME also declared both bolt anchors "unnecessary".

Start: About 15m left of IOU at obvious layback cracks.

  1. (28m) (crux). Up layback, through bushes and up blocks to below overhang. Piton runner, over bulge on good holds, and continue up thin wall into belay cave, bolt anchor.

  2. (18m) Over the bulge to left, and up to bolt anchor. Scrambling remains.

FA: A. Campbell, P. Smith & M. Horne, 1966

Access This crag is still being resurrected and as such will take time to develop an easier point of access to the ground. As it stands here is how accessed the wall. Park at Cahills lookout and head down to the lookout. Vere off the track to the right just as you reach the fence. Continue down and true left until you reach the big overhang. Locate the big boulder with tape around it. You can back this up with a few cams to climbers right. Descend about 60m trending to climbers left. Locate a small ledge and build a trad anchor, then descend another 70m to the ground.

Head 10m left of the abseil line to a corner system. There is a boulder at the base of the route marking the start. P1 30m 16: Awkward start to gain a dirty crack system. Follow the right crack up Belay off tree on the tier

P2 30m 18: Bouldery start, follow the obvious crack up. Traverse left at the first roof, then some 3 dimensional moves and an exposed move out to a small stance for the belay.

P3 45m: Traverse diagonally right through the sea of ironstone past your abseil line to the only vertical crack system in sight. Hanging belay at base of crack system

P4 15m: Up the crack system as it seems out and the ironstone gets thinner and thiner. Use the anchor from the abseil line

FA: Mitchell Stewart, Richard Stubbs & Claire Jay, 28 Dec 2019

"A very impressive first pitch, by which Eric Parris won a bet for 10 beers and 4 double whiskies." [JME] "Eric Parris's finest hour." [BA]

Start: Overhanging crack 10m left of Rhum Cognac.

  1. Up crack and more broken rock above to ledge with the bollard to Skinny John.

  2. "It is thought that the climb continues further up the rotten rock to make it quite a long climb." [BA]

FA: E. Parris & A. Bazzine, 1958

#Historical Access down from Cahill's lookout. "Scramble down to right of Cahills Lookout, through cave and hole. Continue down a gully, then a little chimney followed by scramble down to the Bollard to Skinny John. Abseil 100' (30m) or 2 x 60' (18m) down "Rhum Cognac". John Skinner, a keen member of the Rhum Dhu, who led some of the lads up some pretty ferocious routes while on their climbing trip to England, was killed a few years later while jackerooing in the N.T. The metal bollard was erected in his memory by the Rhum Dhu lads."[JME]

(October 2020 - The "hole" in the Ewbank description, appears a literal hole about a meter across, that tunnels through a small buttress that splits the cave beneath the lookout in two. After you come around the edge of the overhang, you might find a small cairn above the boulder that is the anchor for "Discretion is the Greater Part of Valor". From there look across the next alcove to see the hole - next to a dinner plate inscribed with heartfelt poetry that was retrieved from beneath the lookout. It's a deathly exposed move out to the hole, but not as bad as it looks - however it would be terrifying to climb back out coming the other way. So if you continue to explore from there, be prepared to commit to the entire descent.)

"An historic climb as its first ascent on 11th May, 1958 by Peter Hardy, Ken Cooke and Doug Litchfield marked the formation of the Rhum Dhu." [BA]

Start: 33m left of Gin and Tonic below and left of small overhang in corner. (Directly below abseil from the Skinny John bollard below Cahills Lookout.)

  1. (12m) Up to tree.

  2. (18m) Straight up, then slightly right (harder) or traverse further right (easier) to ledge with Skinny John bollard. The climb can be continued as:

  3. (10m) Starting where right hand variants end, climb up "V" gully in corner to cave. Tree belay.

  4. (10m) Continue up on left to base of chimney.

  5. (6m) Battle up chimney.

  6. Easily directly up edge of left pinnacle to top.

FA: P. Hardy, K. Cooke & D. Litchfield, 1958

Variant start to Rhum Cognac. Start: Chimney/gully about 15m right of Rhum Cognac slab.

  1. (10m) corner to ledge (tree).

  2. (30m) move left into chimney and up to join the Rhum Cognac V-chimney.

FA: F. Field, G. Hoar & R. Cunningham, 1958

The most perfectly preserved fossil of the Pre-Tradaceous era: a 110 foot leadout, with no runners. Bravo Bryden!! Bring out the plimsoles, pipe and tweed for the youngsters to learn some proper courage in.

"Consists of a long lead with no runners." [BA 1963] "A fine climb, though protection isn't the best." [JME 1967] "Take care." [Owens 1995] (Has honesty also been devalued over the years? - Ed)

Start: On face and rib 40 yards right of Rhum Cognac.

  1. (70') Easily up the first section.

  2. (110') There is now a small ramp leading to the right for about 20'. Go halfway up this then sneak up the overhang. Continue up the face which does not relax till the top is reached." [BA]

FA: B. Allen & T. Westren, 1962

"A fine position and was a very popular climb. Details hazy. Rotten rock and exposure at the top." [BA] "A long and varied climb, which used to be very popular." [JME]

Start: The blunt buttress between Baby Sham and Whisky Gully.

  1. Up on the left hand side via cracks, chimneys and scrub to ledge beneath slight overhang.

  2. Up on the left hand side via cracks, chimneys and scrub to ledge beneath slight overhang.

  3. Continue up very easily to left, or for more interest trend right and up main face right hand edge via piton belay or runner.

  4. Continue up very easily to left, or for more interest trend right and up main face right hand edge via piton belay or runner.

FA: K. Cooke & D. Litchfield, 1958

#Historical "Each of the four pitches provide a battle of a new and exciting kind. Technically very hard but little exposure." BA

Start: On small shield of rock on right side of gully just right of Cocktail Buttress.

  1. (10m) "Even this is not trivial."

  2. (16m) Walk left and up slight layback. Walk to bolt belay on block (or natural anchor).

  3. (8m) Up to right.

  4. (12m) Layback crack then with difficulty into chimney.

FA: D. Litchfield, K. Cooke, P. Hardy, R. Adams & M. Montague, 1958

Start: Nose the right of Whisky Gully. 83m

  1. (15m) Diagonal traverse around nose then into crack - chimney. Up to bulge then out to ledge up to right. Tree anchor.

  2. (18m) "Walk along scrub-covered ledge until faced with appalling wet mossy wall. Ascend arete to right using human footholds, to leave ground. Climb to small bush and crack. A horrible, delicate traverse to the left is followed by a desperate lunge to a grassy ledge." [BA]

  3. (12m) Up easy face to broad ledge, short wall, and tree belay.

  4. (30m) Easily to top.

FA: P. Higgs, K. Westren, B. Cunningham & M. Montague, 1958

Start: On nose to right of cairn 117m left of Shandy.

  1. 13m, up nose diagonally left, crack to ledge, tree belay.

  2. 13m, ramp left to steep nose. Flake to left then tree on left.

  3. 23m, traverse right 3m, up and right to bulge, up to tree.

  4. 10m, overhang and shallow corner until 3m below ledge. right to nose and up to bolt belay.

  5. 10m, traverse 3m left then left across corner to cave (bolt runner). Aid on 2 bolt runners and piton runner to ledge (bolt belay).

  6. 10m, to flake below corner.

  7. 10m, layback to cave.

  8. 20m, scramble off left.

FA: K. Westren, 1968

"A rather worthless bolt route has been started up a face about 80 yds. left of Shandy. Urinate at the base of it and continue."[JME] (Description included only for amusement .. chopped in the 60s? - Ed.)

Access to Shandy and Dirty Rotten Pig is via abseil from the Boars Head as described.

1 8 33m
2 8 26m
3 6 14m
4 14 26m

Walk past DRP and continue past double rap rings on arete. 20m further is an old rap station made of old green tape tied off a gum tree. 5m further is a gum tree growing beneath some think brush. Sandstone block marked 'S' with cairn on top here. Scramble up through scrub for approx 10m then head right to find the line of fixed hangers.

  1. 33m (8). Fixed hangers & Carrots. Up and right to cave on arete. Easy face climbing on easy angled slab, straight up with some beautiful views. Stay on route or risk hitting some chossy rock. Triple Carrot belay on ledge (admire old rusty belay in cave on your right.)

  2. 26m (8) Left along ledge, then up and back to corner. It's possible to scramble off left here.

  3. 14m (6) A fixed hanger, then medium cams/nuts. Up right crack. Belay off Rap anchors in Chimney. To get off here, rap to previous belay & scramble left or...

  4. 26m (14) Alternate Finish. Chimney up abseil route, past anchor and up. Walk off as for Dirty Rotten Pig. Easy face climbing up the line of ring bolts just left (facing the cliff) of the first boars head abseil.

LOST FROM LEFT SCRAMBLE? If you're just climbing the bolted sections, here's how to get out:

Follow the line of bolts left, around the cliff, through the small forest and up onto the slab (about 15 mins). Look to your left and you'll see a set of staples in the boulder. Set up a hand-line from here using the bolts- left to the small cave, then around to the opposite side of the boulder, following the line of bolts along a high traverse, over a small gap, before meeting the main cliffline and short walk up to the carpark. You will not be able to belay due to the amount of turns so be careful setting this line up, and consider ways of protecting yourself. Tie the end off at the last bolt and use the standard 2 carabiners on safety to traverse, with draws at each bolt. Note- the exit can be much more daunting for a nervous beginner than the actual climb, but is a fun experience.

FA: K Western, 1958

1 19 40m
2 19 25m
3 17 35m
4 14 25m

Multi-pitch sport climb. ~100m. Grades 19,19,17,14. All protection is ring or U bolts, no carrots.

Access path is 60m SOUTH of Cahill's Lookout on Cliff Drive, Katoomba. (access path:

Take at least 14 draws. Be prepared for hanging belay, take lots of locking ‘biners. Twin or double ropes recommended for long abseils and sharp ironstone.

Alternate Access if the abseils are swarming with guided groups-either walk down Devil's Hole (pretty but hard to find the start) or rap down off 2 Ubolts 3m west (R facing out) of normal rap anchor (straight down pitch 4). Then go down the gully for a few meters and walk/traverse out on right wall and eventually find the top of P3 (i.e. reverse the normal route). Leave a long cordlette on the Ubolts to get the screwgate over the edge and rap the route. Either 3 raps or it looks like you can rap P3 (35m) and P2 (25m) in one 60m rap (it's slightly diagonal so the first down should clip one or two bolts) , then P1 (40m)- I haven't tried so take 2 x 60m ropes (or longer) and prusiks.

Orientation: the crag runs more-or-less NORTH-SOUTH. The access path is the EAST side of the cliff, the Megalong Valley below is on the WEST side of the cliff.

Follow access path until you reach 2 chains. This is where you will start and finish.

Rappel ~20m down from chains to the floor of the gully below. (On your way down, scan on your left (if facing rock) for U-bolts which will be protection for the climb out on P4.)

Walk SOUTH, following the rock face on the WEST. Do not take the much steeper, narrow northern path. (On the walk down, try to spot the single U-bolt placed high up on the western face, about half way down the gully hill; you walk past it or could rap from it.) Follow the track around to the right until you have almost done a complete circle. You will pass a U-bolt on the right at about head-height. You will find a very windy chimney/rock split. You need to pass through the chimney to access 3 rappel chains hidden from view. You can solo this part or setup belay from previous U-bolt. 2 U-bolts in chimney, 1 outside chimney. Rappel down from 3 chains. You should head WEST when you lower. Try to spot the 2 rappel chains below you and aim for them. You may rappel ~15m to lower 2 rappel chains, or skip those chains and continue ~25m (~40m total) to a single ring-bolt chest-height on SOUTH face of wall. Rappel ~10m to 2 rappel chains on edge of cliff. (this step can be skipped, but be wary of running out 50m rope) Rappel ~40m from 2 chains to solid ground. Following the cliff on your right, head WEST then NORTH along path until you reach U-bolts. This is the start of the ascent. If you reach a nose, or tree with slings around it you have gone too far.

  1. 40m (19). Start is difficult and belay is next to ledge so make sure belayer is on safety. Finish at 3 U-bolts. Setup semi hanging belay.

  2. 25m (19). Watch for funnel web spiders; they are deadly. Finish at 3 U-bolts. Setup hanging belay.

  3. 35m (17). Really easy but be careful of sharp ironstone, it can sever rope. Twin or double rope recommended. Finish at multiple U-bolts. Setup top belay. Walk EAST on the top of the cliff and walk to the left (north) of the first pinnacle, over the sketchy looking ledge. Follow path to the right (south) of the second pinnacle, which is the "Boars Head" rock feature. Follow the cliff around the southern side of Boars Head and you will find the gully from the first rappel. Stay belayed and keep traversing.

  4. 25m (14) Climb back to 2 rappel chains at the start. Climb is located 6m left of the top abseil at start. First bolt can be hard to find, you may need to solo about 2m at the narrowest point of the chimney to find first bolt. Either sneak off right at the top, or direct on left.

Note: this guide does not distinguish between ring bolts and U-bolts. If U-bolt is listed, ring bolt might be present.

Guide by Paul Hauner and Joel Griggs. February 2014.

FA: Ness, Mikl & Jody Powell, 2006

#Historical "The glamour climb of the area. A spectacular looking face and its first ascent (after several free attempts) was the first to use extensive artificial aids. 3/8" eyebolts are needed." [BA]

Start: Scramble up Green Salad Gully to slight overhang on left, beneath which the climb traverses onto the face.

  1. (28m) Traverse left onto face, Terrier (eyebolt) runner on nose, continue up to pulpit type stone.

  2. (10m) (crux, was M2) chossy crack and left to bolt belay.

  3. (6m) Left up to small ledge and bush belay.

  4. (22m) Tricky start, then right and off to finish an airy and exhilarating (exposed) climb.

FA: R. Kippax & D. Rootes, 1961

"A pleasant walk through interesting scenery." [BA] Start: The large deep gully to right of and behind Boars Head.

  1. Up gully passing short awkward chimney. Right onto higher level, back left through overhang, then easy to top of gully. From here can rap to start of "Shandy" P3 and then scramble off left.

FA: D. Litchfield & R. Cunningham, 1958

Start 5m left of The Forgotten crack. This should go free by stronger climbers grade 24-25 "thrutching". The crux is getting established in the flaring chimney and then the tips underclinging out through the roof. Micro cams were used to aid through these bits.

Up finger crack to ledge. Hard moves into flaring chimney then under little roof to juggy flake. Up flake to ledge, step right around arete and up thin corner to ledge and 2bb as for the forgotten crack. The ledge is super loose so be careful.

FA: Marty Doolan & Alex Forwell, 20 Dec 2017

FFA: Marty Doolan, 12 Jun 2020

A great crack route below a massive un climbed corner system. The upper pitch has been attempted but we were unsuccessful. A bolt and snap link mark the high point approx 5m above belay.

2m left of castaway

Climb corner to small roof past tricky move protected by a micro cam, then into hand crack

Follow crack through roof to ledge

Be careful as the top out and ledge is quite loose

Rap off or blast through choss band into unclimbed corner system.

FA: Marty Doolan, Hugh Ward & Pitch one only, 2 Feb 2017

Previously climbed back in the dark ages but un recorded. Has seen a lot of traffic. Good clean crack climbing

Follows a finger crack corner past some old carrots to a 2 bolt belay/lower offs

The crux is up high where the crack thins – if you climb the crack direct its around grade 23 however its slightly easier if you use the scoops on the right at grade 22.

Rap off 2 bolt belay.

FA: Unknown

FFA: First recorded free ascent Marty Doolan, Feb 2017

1 22
2 15
3 18

2m right of Castaway and immediately left of a small overhang/cave.

  1. 22 - Up steep corner to bush. Climb left of the bush to ledge then up steep finger crack to anchor. 2 bolt belay. Rap off or continue to pitch 2&3

  2. 15 - Walk right along ledge to small eucalyptus tree. Climb short wall above eucalyptus tree to ledge. 0.75 cam and a wire in crack for belay.

  3. 18 - Up steep leaning crack on good holds to ledge. Quite pumpy. Rap off

FA: Marty Doolan & Hugh Ward, 7 Feb 2017

#Historical Topo notional, route not confirmed. 150m

"Details are forgotten." [BA] "A fine climb." [JME] Description below from Owens, copied from JME.

Start: At steep corner on the next prominent buttress east of Boars Head 420m left of Devils Hole.

  1. 23m, up and right to top of buttress.

  2. 35m, left to corner and up.

  3. 33m, up and right to chimney.

  4. 25m, chimney.

  5. 36m, up gully and scramble off.

FA: K. Cooke & D. Litchfield, 1958

Start: "A very obvious scrub filled corner, some distance left of Devils Hole." [JME] 100m right of Whisky Chaser. [Owens] 43m

  1. 10m, gully to tree.

  2. 23m, traverse left to corner, up and over to bulge, left (bolt runners) to bolt belay.

  3. 10m, corner and bulge to ledge.

FA: J. Worrall, C. Regan & R. Barton, 1966

Start: 10m left of Desperately Seeking Stephen.

  1. Up gully 5m and right to ledge (bolt belay). Nose and slab (6 bolt runners) then right to join Desperately Seeking Stephen at last bolt runner.

FA: Jones & Babka, 1989

Start: At undercut arete 200m W of Devils Hole.

  1. 8? bolt runners to chain. 1.5-2.5 cams

FA: A. Jones & A. Farquar, 1988

#Historical Topo notional, route not confirmed.

BA describes a different climb to Owen, from which the description below is taken.

Start: At bottom of Devils Hole track, go left (facing cliff) just past left arete, up gully, and onto to huge block on ledge. Belay behind block as original "bush and piton belay" are no more.

  1. (17m) Arete, left onto corner. Back to arete and up to tree.

  2. (20m) Corner and left to tree.

  3. (16m) Groove/chimney to tree.

  4. (33m) Walk left to red corner (tree).

  5. (10m) Up corner.

  6. (40m) Walk left and up gully to overhangs.

  7. (23m) Right and up to ledge, across corner to ledge (tree).

Scramble right, up arete, and down to Devils Hole path near chockstone overhanging track.

FA: K. Westren, D. Litchfield, K. Cooke, J. Skinner & F. Hepworth.

Devil's Hole track descends from a sign opposite 239 Cliff Drive, to the base of the cliff here -33.72598,150.28833. At the base of the cliff the track can be followed left (facing cliff) to the base of the Boars Head abseil, or right to Narrow Neck.

This climb commemorates the 21st ascent of the Rhum Dhu climbers.

#Historical Topo notional, route not confirmed.

Start: Walk down Devils Hole track from top to just below the chockstone visible jammed overhead. Follow track to right (facing in) past grey wall and corner crack to red wall with pinnacle abutting cliff-face above.

  1. Climb easily up short wall then crack between pinnacle and cliff to large ledge and belay on top of pinnacle.

  2. "Climb the left hand edge of the wall overlooking Devils Hole to a good belay." [BA]

  3. Up tricky scoop then easily up nose to belay.

  4. Up wall then traverse to the left under overhang to continue up wall above.

FA: K. Westren, D. Litchfield, K. Cooke, J. Skinner & F. Hepworth., 1958

The next few routes start from a grassy ledge above Waterfall Cave track.

Start: At crack 3m left of "Bloody Mary RHS".

  1. 18m Crack to ledge.

  2. 17m Roof and chossy crack above.

FA: J. Pickard, 1968

Start: At crack 6m left of Tia Maria.

  1. 23m Crack to hanging belay

  2. 24m Crack to bush

FA: R. Reynolds, 1969

Start 5m right of Bloody Mary RHS (marked) below triangular prowed ledge at 4m. Fixed rope may be present, bounce test before use; if not then lasso or stick-sling the very tip of prow and ascend rope then mantle onto ledge and good gear. Climbing starts here.

  1. Head up and right following slanting invert thin crack to lip of roof and rest. Upper corner is very thin crack and a few decent holds. Stemming and a few face holds help. Exit left at top. Tree belay.

Standard rack plus extra small cams.

Top corner is a bit dirty and mossy but should clean up a bit.


FA: Ewbank, 1967

Set: Mac & Zac

Start at tree right of corner, using pocket then straight up to roof and traverse left under roof and up shallow corner to ledge. Technical corner work then follow line to crux moves at very top . . . 'Cull The Sac' variant. Climb past roof and up to ledge at half-height ~23. Sling-horn to lower, then flick it off to retrieve.

FA: Ewbank 18 M4

FFA: Zac Vertrees & Macciza, 1 Sep 2012

Start at corner capped by triangular roof left of main waterfall. diagonally right to bolt and up to ledge, then corner system up to right side of roof. Follow corner/crack up to end then left on sloping shelf past bolt (old belay) and up groove to ledge past old threads and traverse off left.

FA: Ewbank & 18 M2, 1969

FFA: Macciza & Zac Vertrees, 2006

Obvious crack line angling into Catastrophe Corner, then taking right hand exit at top.

After trying the direct start at small roof, try increasing further left, but no further then the tree, until you can get established on wall. Either head up slightly to gear or traverse into line and some gear. Follow crack, a bit of gear to stonking Medium cams then slight runout up to ramp and gear. Join CC at the top but continue up and right to exit.

Wires and cams. Tree belay over the top.

Set: Macciza a.k.a. Macca

FA: Macciza a.k.a. Macca, 12 Apr 2015

FA: Macciza a.k.a. Macca, 6 Jun 2015

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